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Yeah, I know mine will be slow around town, But I dont mind, I dont go about doing silly things on the roads any more.

+ I want an old school Jap style build...you know a few years ago when GTR's etc were cool when they had T51R's or T88s etc

haha..thats mental..

well you be happy to know my car is all good and running now, spent all weekend putting it back together and im absolutely rooted..everything that was busted is fixed, so its in tip top shape now and ready for bigger and better things..

thing is Ive been real tempted lately to just get a gcg top mount mani and t67 as well.. :whistling:

im trying real hard to stick to my plan..really I am but its hard and battery didnt just make it any easier..

I reckon just use what you already have and see how it turns out.... you can swap a high mount on later lol

haha nice work... I was very jealous that you had that much traction in 2nd in the first video. The second one made me feel a little bit better :P

First video I lifted on the gear change, second is flat :)

Are 33's known to have more grip?

My old 32 had stock rb25det @190kw, stock VLSD(pretty tight) buddyclub coilovers and 255/40/17.

My 33 made 200kw before the t67, runs a kaaz 2 way with the same buddyclub coilovers on 595ss 225/45/17 and Got way more traction than the 32 ever did.

I guess the 4.1 vs 4.3 diff ratio makes a difference here too.

Edited by battery

Your neglecting one specific dyno sheet with a back to back result. Status posted a back to back result for a HKS GTRS (the god like 250rwkw turbo on a RB25) vs a TD06SL2-20g T3 10cm. OK it was not on an RB, yet it doesnt mean the GTRS is better suited to the SR and the 20g is not does it?

The 20g traced the character of the GTRS right till the GTRS peaked and then the 20g kept going till 300kw.

What more could you want than that? If you could expect the results to be 'similar' on an RB25, that would say the 20g would have absolute balistic response with 300kw? Isnt a 300kw GTRS what we have all be savouring?

Just doo eeeett.

You would think an RB20 with its smaller exhaust pulses reveals the flaws in turbos. My car back to back with a very similar car with a GT-RS showed the 20G is the better all round setup...though in this comparison you have to remember that the 20G was a full maifold and gate setup vs the bolt on GT-RS...and I run a tad more boost but a general picture is still painted

med_gallery_462_50_8431.jpg

med_gallery_462_50_171164.jpg

So personally i think the GT-RS is a pretty crappy turbo if for all its "technology" etc etc it cant match a truck turbo for response or power :)

They aren't exactly back to back tests though. One is a GTS-4 and one is a GTS-t so they are different cars which would have slightly different setups. The GT-RS is running less boost and according to the dyno sheet is actually a GT-T highflow, so i'm guessing it is using garrett GT2871R 52trim internals in GT-T housings and i would also assume that it would be journal bearing not BB like an actual GT-RS.

EDIT!!

And there is something else up with that "GT-RS"; Because my CA18 (with a GT2871R 52T) is reaching full boost sooner and is making and extra 15-20kw pretty much all the way through the mid-range and it's a 200cc smaller engine.

CA18DETGT2871R05-02-0917psiRPM.jpg

Edited by D_Stirls

I reckon just use what you already have and see how it turns out.... you can swap a high mount on later lol

yeah i am, i was just stirring Scott again... :thumbsup:

well i do keep considering top mounting it but meh that means buying more stuff and im sick of buying stuff, i have everything ready to go now

I dont think i will need to swap it anyway it should boogie ..

EDIT!!

And there is something else up with that "GT-RS"; Because my CA18 (with a GT2871R 52T) is reaching full boost sooner and is making and extra 15-20kw pretty much all the way through the mid-range and it's a 200cc smaller engine.

Thats a difference in motor character more than it is something wrong. CAs seem to love boost and airflow, they arent shy and RBs have a set RPM that they come alive. Very different character, its still an RB vs an RB which makes it relatively fair.

Why not just refer to the true back to back job on the SR20 status showed?

Was there a graph posted, i missed it if it was.

I agree that the GT2871R (GT-RS) is not the best matched turbo it's a fair bit better that the next step up in the GT28 range though the GT2876R.

I would love to see what a 52T GT3071R with the cropped 56.5mm turbine would go like on a CA or an SR, as it has the same compressor but with a turbine that will allow to compressor to hit it's straps. I would have through it would behave very similar to a TD06SL2-20G. I'm surprised that the 20G is as responsive as the GT-RS as the heavy side of the turbo (the turbine) is a fair bit larger than the GT-RS. Having said that if it was an 8cm^2 turbine it's effective A/R would be smaller as well at around 0.57a/r, which would offset the weight difference slightly.

All in all on paper the TD06SL2-20G is a much better matched turbo than a GT-RS/2871.

Your missing page 33-34 mate, Trent pulled 302rwkw with a 10cm 20g kando on an SR and back to backed it against a HKS GTRS.

Buy the L2 dont get the plain 06 variant.

This car had a GTRS on it (red line) and it lost nothing with the L2, this car has a little more lag than normal as VCT is disabled.

STD SR20 with 264 HKS cams on std valve springs etc..

They aren't exactly back to back tests though. One is a GTS-4 and one is a GTS-t so they are different cars which would have slightly different setups. The GT-RS is running less boost and according to the dyno sheet is actually a GT-T highflow, so i'm guessing it is using garrett GT2871R 52trim internals in GT-T housings and i would also assume that it would be journal bearing not BB like an actual GT-RS.

The cars run the same cooler, the same exhaust, mine a Power Fc and the other a remapped std ecu. It was 100% a HKS GT-RS, not a Garret, forget what the dyno sheet says. Yes it is a GTS4 but run on a rwd dyno. And two different tuners, mine Racepace and the GTS4 Dr Drift

Yes its running less boost, and perhaps a few degrees less ignition (perhaps, but its possible my tune was the more conservative as it is a track tune so a few degrees short of what you would run on the street). That all said, the general picture is the same.

Also, your plot is a different type of dyno, a different dyno so even more variables to consider. I know my car made 260rwkws on a Dyno Dynamics with the same tune, hell, probably even the same tank of gas :) So I was down 15kws on the Mainline dyno

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