Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If you look through roys build up the has the turbos side by side I'm sure the greedy version but they are very similar to the kandos you can see the size difference in the turbine wheel

Edited by Bsa

I will be getting one of but can't until I get back from Thailand in janurary as money is tight. That's why I'm researching on them as I want to get the right one the first time. Just curious at how similar the to turbos will be seen the pics side by side just wondering what would be like on power curve etc

Any body done back to back testing between the SL2 and the td06h-20g

Two near identical setups on same dyno and same tuner and no difference. the L2 was a tad worse...a tad. My car was a little more responsive and made something like 1.5rwkws more...so variable is exhaust, engine health etc. Jack difference in the turbo...and both cars were recently lapping bumper to bumper at Winton so both about the same

Kris is now running my old spare L2, making good numbers. But i didnt see anything in results that made me want to swap my H for the L2

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/58229-top-rb20-club-do-you-have-over-260rwkw/page__st__1780

get the td06sl2 20g, it will spool faster and it can flow more than enough

also see this housing for their 8cm T3 internal gate.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Turbo-Turbine-Housing-TD06SL2-T67-T3-8cm-Internal-Gate-Mitsubishi-/290621301428?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43aa6122b4

just need to have the rear lopped off and drilled out

So after an adjusment its half way there, cheers again to scottynm35 who pretty much cut it, welded it and filed it smooth in the time it took me to smoke a cigarette..:thumbsup:

DSC03214.jpg

I reckon I may even be able to get my stock heatsheild to cover the dumps for some extra stealthishness.. :ph34r:

DSC03208.jpg

also just incase anyone is interested in what comes in your Kinguwana kit, here it is,

minus the almost metre long oil line which is in my car already.

The oil drain is very small compared to stock, not exactly sure what I will do about that.. Also I was surprised there was no blank plugs in the oil and water holes on the turbo cartridge..maybe this is normal I dunno..

DSC03221.jpg

does anyone know what the little T-piece sitting near the copper washes is for..I assume its for a gauge sensor, but not sure how or where it would fit in with the kit :unsure:

LMAO @ TIAL stealthiness, man you crack me up. I wish we lived nearby -_-

and you can get a TFI brass fitting to put a 5/8 bung on the block from autobahn, its a 3/4 from stock i think!

does anyone know what the little T-piece sitting near the copper washes is for..I assume its for a gauge sensor, but not sure how or where it would fit in with the kit :unsure:

Ye, has a 1/8" NPT fitting for an oil pressure gauge if you want to fir one there

So after an adjusment its half way there, cheers again to scottynm35 who pretty much cut it, welded it and filed it smooth in the time it took me to smoke a cigarette..:thumbsup:

DSC03214.jpg

I reckon I may even be able to get my stock heatsheild to cover the dumps for some extra stealthishness.. :ph34r:

DSC03208.jpg

also just incase anyone is interested in what comes in your Kinguwana kit, here it is,

minus the almost metre long oil line which is in my car already.

The oil drain is very small compared to stock, not exactly sure what I will do about that.. Also I was surprised there was no blank plugs in the oil and water holes on the turbo cartridge..maybe this is normal I dunno..

DSC03221.jpg

does anyone know what the little T-piece sitting near the copper washes is for..I assume its for a gauge sensor, but not sure how or where it would fit in with the kit :unsure:

Question for you, does that lip on the mounting face of the V-band flange fit into the rear housing and allow you to clamp it?

Basically I had the same flange but the rear housing was not machined to accept the lip so I had to get him to send a flat one out. A few other guys have PM'd me saying they had the same problem and had to get a replacement sent out too.

get the td06sl2 20g, it will spool faster and it can flow more than enough

also see this housing for their 8cm T3 internal gate.

http://www.ebay.com....=item43aa6122b4

just need to have the rear lopped off and drilled out

mines for a rb25 so im going to go the 10cm housing and external gate as the 8cm will choke

and artz ive also noticed your using a 10mm spacer between the turbo and manifold did you need this or did you do it just to be sure as i thought i read on here you didnt need it

Edited by luvpsi

yeah my housing is machined, fits like a glove.. guess i got lucky...

DSC03226.jpg

Cheers for the headsup though that could of made life hard had it not fit :cheers:

Thanks for that pic man, I'd definitely prefer to have that seal but mine seems to be sealing fine so far without it...

Scottynm35 did a great job on that housing-gate pipe!

It came up good, I wonder if you could get some sort of heatproof cover like a turbo beanie to cover the wastegate? I guess you will have a screamer plumbed over the heatsheild soon so it wont really matter, when the cops lift the bonnet you will be screwed. lol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...