Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Scott, thanks, I do now understand the concept of an external gate setup, and hell no, I'm not going to have an open screamer and hence a massive fine and defect, it will have to plumb back onto my dump, and either collect the gases out from my stock manifold or turbo rear housing - I dunno which is easier /cheaper /more preferred..

Is it sad that I now dont want one of these turbos because everyone buying them is doing it as cheap as possible.

I am now waiting for all the threads/comments saying my car isnt performing like Simon-R32's car etc

modded the stock manifold to suit 44mm v-band ext gate, running either a tial mvr or turbosmart hyper gate

Did you keep the standard splitter inside the manifold when you modded it for external gate? If you didn't I would recommend that you ditch it, get a new one and weld gate to rear housing!

Guys asking about gates, I think Tial 44mm MVR off ebay for $400 is a bargain and you can't go wrong :thumbsup:

Make sure you have your labour aspect of things well sorted and know the implications of a screamer (if you opt to go that way) or how standout your setup will be to NSW highway patrol.

On a dedicated street car this is why the HG wins everytime no matter the cost.

Is it sad that I now dont want one of these turbos because everyone buying them is doing it as cheap as possible.

I am now waiting for all the threads/comments saying my car isnt performing like Simon-R32's car etc

Never fear, I'll chuck some cams and springs in my car this year and try for some more power to keep the pundits happy :whistling:

Is it sad that I now dont want one of these turbos because everyone buying them is doing it as cheap as possible.

I am now waiting for all the threads/comments saying my car isnt performing like Simon-R32's car etc

Ur a pretty sad bloke Zebra, not surprising seeing as u from ACT...pinch.gif

Will it please you if I go mount my Wastegate on my dump pipe?

oh no you didnt...

Did you keep the standard splitter inside the manifold when you modded it for external gate? If you didn't I would recommend that you ditch it, get a new one and weld gate to rear housing!

Guys asking about gates, I think Tial 44mm MVR off ebay for $400 is a bargain and you can't go wrong :thumbsup:

yeah MVR gate on ebay was the cheapast i saw $410 del (that seller is away till 8/1/12 btw) then next is $440 @ powertune.com.au

i got mine second hand.for $300 del.

BSA is doing the mod to the manifold for me, his pics are below of the one he did on his car and looks like the standard splitter is still in place :thumbsup:

img0041ck.jpg

img0043jp.jpg

The thing that worries me with gate on manifold is police/ pits if you get a sticker and need to go over pits to go back to standard turbo you need another manifold if it on housing pull off turbo bolt on stock turbo get a basic tune take over pits done easy as

LOL somehow I don't think you are quite knowledgeable enough to make a comment

Since you are so clever stripey horse, I will tell you why I dont like the idea of welding onto the stock manifold - luvpsi above said it for me..

If you have fresh studs that are <10,000kms do they snap just as easily?

Reason I ask is I took my manifold and turbo off twice with the same studs and had no issues, they were all under 10,000k though. Was running 18psi on a highflow so would have gotten bloody hot as well.

Edited by Rolls

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...