Jump to content
SAU Community

Pros And Cons Of Wastegate Feed Positions

zebra

By zebra,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

bradsm87 Proficient

bradsm87

Posted
Posted

stretching them the other way to the direction they're designed to go, wearing them out quicker. The dodgiest bit is at 60-90% throttle tho. The wastegate thinks the turbo's only producing 10psi so closes right up, meanwhile the turbo could be pushing 25psi before the throttle body. U can hear it as u back off a bit. Dodgy imo.

rob82 Mentor

rob82

Posted
Posted

Using a vacuum reference is a really shit idea - not only are you causing a vacuum leak as you bleed the solenoid onto boost but your also applying negative pressure on the actuator meaning that its more likely to open the wastegate flap so it will make the car slower onto boost. Not only this but if gases are escaping out of the the wastegate port then your putting more thermal loading on wastegeate port - guess where turbos are likely to crack!!

zebra Grand Master

zebra

Posted
  • Author
Posted

how is vacuum gonna hurt them?

This is what i would like to know too.

Like I said before, I had the same setup on my Gtst with no dramas, the whole point of this exersise is to hold the wastegates shut for as long as possible, not constantly bleeding off exhaust gas.

  • 8 years later...
BK Grand Master

BK

Posted
Posted

ok I'm bumping this.

Boost pressure source for wastegate / boost solenoid - plenum or compressor housing ?

I've always been plenum, but seeing all of the Precision / Borg Warner / Garrett singles now with nipples on the compressor housings is making me think twice, especially since I've moved to a 6466.

Surely plenum is the go as that is what the engine is seeing and what you want to control ? So why have compressor nipples then ?

I am talking RB26 here so I do realise pressure source always has to be before the throttles (like the plenum), unlike a 25 where the plenum is after the single throttle body making the plenum a no go in that situation.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

There is no difference between plenum and comp housing on an ITB 26.......well, there is a small difference related to the speed of sound and the propagation rate of the pressure signal. I think Nissan did it in the plenum on the 26 because it was a reasonable place to pick up a signal from both turbos. That's all.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Toni
      R32 GTR - Where to begin

      By Toni · Posted

      Clutch done also about a year ago got a DCS HD Single Plate. Basically done everything but touch the engine 🤣 But will definitely get a fuel pump and ECU, then start saving 🫡
    • r32-25t
      R32 GTR - Where to begin

      By r32-25t · Posted

      Fuel pump and clutch and ecu that’ll get you to about 230 or so kw, after that the sky’s the limit and the budget blows out faster then you can blink 
    • Toni
      R32 GTR - Where to begin

      By Toni · Posted

      Should add all mods on the car are done in my ownership. The car was a 1 owner in Japan and I'm first owner in Aus.
    • Toni
      R32 GTR - Where to begin

      By Toni · Posted

      Thanks GTSBoy. Did BC's so not Japanese coilovers. I've already done all the other points you mentioned besides the seat, I like the factory seats and want to keep original look. Done all the fluids and comp tests etc and all consistent and clean. Well and truly used to the power and car as I've been driving it for a few years as it is now. Contemplating next steps mainly. Preference to remain twins too. @Murray_Calavera Paying for labour.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTR - Where to begin

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Hmm. I don't think it is possible. As soon as you start, you will be on the hook for all the money. $5-10k is enough to make it fragile. Here's the list of things you need to do to make it nice, and driveable. If Japanese coilovers, get them measured and tested, then decide if you're keeping them or replacing them. If low rate springs, then consider big ARBs. If high rate springs, then probably leave stock ARBs. Either way, ad decent end links. Replace and/or upgrade all suspension bushes. That's LCAs front and rear, UCAs & traction arms at rear, caster rods at front. I highly recommend GKTech FUCAs, although the step to spherical joints is a step too far for some people. Rebuild brakes front and rear. This means making sure the calipers are healthy, discs are up to thickness, hoses are replaced with braided. Add good pads and fluid. Investigate wheel bearings all the way around, tie rod ends all the way around, upright bearings at the front, balljoints everywhere. Any of these that are still original are likely to be a bit wibbly nowadays. Bride or Recaro driver's seat, with fairly deep sides. Nice tyres. Street performance wheel alignment. Or track focused, if you're not going to use it on the road. Fluids everywhere if not known to be fresh. Now, learn to drive the car as hard as it will go, before trying to add any power. Save up big $$. $5k is the minimum cost for putting a decent ECU into it. A big single, with manifold, new exhaust, injectors, fuel system upgrade, ignition upgrade, triggering upgrade, etc, is >>$10k. None of that (except the ECU) is a good idea on an old RB. You really should put head studs in it, investigate engine health (compression and leak down, real oil pressure at revs, coolant condition, etc) before even considering adding power. There's nothing sadder than the "I added boost then it shat the bed" thread.
×
×
  • Create New...