Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all

i have a 1994 R33 GTS-4 and i want to put a RB26DETT into it

i'v been told that i have a drive train like the GTR?? is this true?? i have the MT gear box and i was told that's the same as the GTR box??? and that the 26dett will drop straight in?? are these ppl full of shit?

i can't seem to find much info in the gts4 so i'v just been going on what ppl tell me

i want to know

1. if my drive train is the same as the GTR or how much differaint is it??

2. to put the 26dett in what will i have to do and change? like diff, gearbox, drive train? wireing? any of that stuff?

3. what parts will i need to get? other than the engine :)

4. if it's just all to hard and i should just get a RB25DET??

if there is any thing i have missed pllz tell me

thanks very much for your help!!

Rb25DET is not a GTR. There may be shared components but I don't think the GTS 4 drivetrain and diff is as strong as the GTR. I have heard of quite a few R33 GTS25T's that have had an RB26DETT swapped into them and i believe an R32 GTS4 has had the same treatment, so it is entirely possible and you might have to swap in a GTR diff + GTR ECU.

It will fit in the engine bay

That's the R32 GTS4 in Hi Octane ..

It's true that the R33 GTS4 missed out on all the good stuff, unlike the 32.

In the 32 the g/box is the same as the GTR, but I'm not too sure about the 33. It wouldn't be too hard to bolt in a stagea motor, but then again it wouldnt be too hard to bolt in the GTR motor either. YOu're just going to need all the ancillaries as well.

the search button is cool! and your right this question does come up alot but it's all to do with the R32's!!!! i have a R33! and i can't find any thing on them ;)

My bad, I asumed you were talking about R32 gts4's ;)

i know i have missed out on the 5 stud wheels, and bigger brakes, and bigger clutch and lots of other good stuff the GTR has

i want to find out if i can kinda get the same specs as a GTR coz i'v been told (by some one who imports 1/2 cuts) that i can drop the engin straigh in, the g/box is the same and every thing will fit.. but i have a feeling that it not that simple and i just want to knwo what i'm getting into

u think getting a wrecked GTR and changing all the bits over would be the way to go? would they all fit? or can i get away with just getting the engine and other bits?

your better off selling it and buying a gtr, sorry dude. given the cost and the amount of shit you'd have to change its probably cheaper to just a buy a gtr. there's so many things you have to change, notable the drivetrain in the gtr is attessa, whereas its something else in the gts4. of course feel free to search and what not, but theres a lot to be done, even if you can just straight swap the engine, which you wont be able to do most likely.

brakes

ecu

clutch

diff

drivetrain

what else?

Jimbo2000: yeah you can put the RB25 from the Stagea into the GTS4.

Paul: the attessa is the same in the GTR and the GTS4. THe engine will indeed be a straight swap, though as you put in your post the brakes, ecu will need to be changed. The clutch well yes you'll need a HD item. The diff is a different ratio and will help you get out of the hole quicker than a GTR. You'll be slower in the top end though. Drive train is essentially the same.

Not sure if the 33 gearbox is the same as the 33 GTR box. I know the 32GTR and the 32GTS4 share the same box.

But if you're not going for looks, only putting the motor and associated parts in, it won't be cheaper to buy a GTR.

I'm pretty sure the gearbox in a R33gts4 is not the same as the GTR model due to the Gts4's n/a specifications. Honestly, i reckon it'll cost too much since you have to consider so many other mechanical alterations as aforementioned. HPI did a comparison on the R32Gts4t & the R33Gts4 in an issue not too far back - The one with the red s15 on the cover as I recall (Issue 36) . Anyway the short of it was since the R32 was already turbo and shared similar specs with the GTR, i.e. gearbox, etc - The swapover for an RB26 would be easier & more cost effective. This is a common question asked by MkIV non turbo Supra owners as what they'd need to do to make their n/a ride into a twin-turbo beast and is it more cost effective - The answer more often than not is DONT bother, as it is economically crazy. I've got a 32 GTST with an RB25DET swaped in (engine work done here in Oz) and this has caused enough headaches with tuning & parts as it is. This is not including the additional costs such as acquiring a RWC for the car with an engineer going over it with a fine tooth comb which isn't that cheap. You might start to think going the GTR route wasn't such a bad idea afterall - Then again you've got to consider what you want the car for and do you really need that much power? Why don't you just do a trade for an R32gts4t or sumpthin? I saw not too long ago in the Trading Post for sale an R32Gts4 with an RB26 swap - Going for something like 20g's....maybe something to consider. By all means it should be possible to drop in an RB26 into a 33Gts4.... just takes money and some weighing up decisions. Anyway hope this helps! Goodluck!

i got ppl saying it can be done and ppl telling me it can't and it will cost to much

i don't want to be rude but how do u know all this JiMiH?  

how do u other guys lear about the cars and what fits and doesn't???

Not being rude at all mate ... I myself have a 32 gts4 and am undertaking the GTR conversion :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Everything I found online said never use it because it'll dramatically reduce belt lifespan.  No, but I have seen excessive v-belt tension cause the audible bearing noise from excessive radial load in things like alternators. So don't overdo it. Ideally you set it to manufacturer spec using a proper belt tension guage. I tried the "clicker" type gauges but those cheap things are trash. They read way too low even when you're careful.
    • This is kind of where I've ended up for the most part. It's easier for me, easier for shops that don't have to deal with my weird criteria/picky standards, etc.
    • Will do. Suprised if it's not the starter motor considering it's 30 years old. Will get a volt meter though. Battery is close to new.   Cheers for your help, always appreciated.
    • This almost never happens these days. No. Clean your battery terminals and make sure they are tight. Use sandpaper on a dowel if you have to, to get oxidation off the inside of the terminals, particularly on the -ve. Check the earth cable from battery post to chassis ground and engine ground. Make sure the contact surfaces are clean - including the threads on the bolts that anchor them - because that's where a lot of the contact occurs. Wire wheel on a drill is a good thing for this. Make sure the crimps on those cables are all sound. Assuming none of that causes an improvement: Check the battery voltage after it has been resting for a while. If it's at the lower end of the range, put it on charge for a while, then see if it will crank better.
    • I just checked my belt, it wasn't super loose but I could bend it past 90 degrees a small amount so I tightened it up and for the first time ever my car didn't crank first time, had to crank it again lol. Don't know if that was because I tightened the belt or if it's my starter motor going out (been having slow starts for some time). Coulda also been when I was recording I didn't crank the key properly and it didn't save the recording lol.   Is that a thing if you overtighten a belt it struggles to start?
×
×
  • Create New...