Jump to content
SAU Community

Stagea S2 Stumbling No Idle No Vac/boost Etc

godzilla_753

By godzilla_753,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

godzilla_753 Contributor

godzilla_753

Posted
Posted

been working on a the engine trying to get it wired up correctly. I have got it started now and it seems like it doesn't want to run right.

Problems:

very low idle, almost dies

gauge is showing little/no vacuum (this might have to do with my homemade vacuum block)

running super rich

doesnt want to rev up

When I unplug the maf it runs much better, idle raises up and it revs much more smoothly but stops at 2500 rpm like it should. As soon as i plug the maf back in it drops down again to 300 rpm or so and wants to die again.

I was thinking maybe the maf wiring or maf itself are bad?

what would cause it to want to die and not idle?

godzilla_753 Contributor

godzilla_753

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Haha I am actually located in Texas, in the US.

I went out and tested the voltages that the TPS is sending back to the computer and its something like 3v at close and almost 8 at full throttle. this is with the car on and engine running. I tried adjusting the tps down but I only got it to send at a minimum of 2.6v at close throttle.

Isnt the tps supposed to see 12v on the + wire?

pipster11 Grand Master

pipster11

Posted
Posted

throttle shut the tps should read .44V but i'm not sure which wires that is across

a good idea would be to grab either a consult cable or an ecutalk display and hook it up to a pc and see whats going on

www.ecutalk.com does the cables and the display (display is soooooo handy)

take a pic of the vac system and post it up, it will give us a good idea of whats going on

QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted

we told you in your other thread that the TPS see's 5v and you haven't taken any notice. no wonder your getting ridiculously high TPS readings. you'll be lucky if you haven't done any damage to the rest of the sensors that are designed to receive a 5v supply.

FYI, anything above 2.5v on the TPS at low load i.e idle, makes the ECU think you have your foot planted so it starts dumping in shit loads of fuel, this is all in preparation for hard acceleration and wont cause an issue if you do just that. because your not accelerating its just running mega rich at idle. to give you an idea of the fuel enrichment, your basically going from a normal idle injectors pulsewidth of about 3m/s to one of about 20m/s.

oh and just incase you still don't believe it

post-34711-0-16742300-1292915871_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • MBS206
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • MBS206
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • GTSBoy
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...