Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gts-T Slugglish Slow Low Revs/until Boost Kicks In!

starscream_r32

By starscream_r32,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

starscream_r32 Collaborator

starscream_r32

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey all,

I purchased my r32 only like a month or 2 ago.

The car feels very slow/sluggish until boost kicks in.

I get munched by little yaris/jazz/swifts etc... at the lights (just driving normally)

Boost on car does not kick in until atleast 4-4.5k!

Car has fair bit of work done to it.

CAI

Pod

FMIC

3" TBE

Pon cams

Cam gears

Bigger injectors

Better coilpacks

Z32 AFM

Upgraded fuel pump

Bigger turbo

Nistune ecu (can't remember if that's the correct name)

Few other bits.

I hardly ever floor/race my car as turbo lags and it drinks so much petrol... i'm a GRANNY driver! LOL.

However when i drive normally it's so slow/sluggish... all these cars just overtake me and the ones driving behind me get's frustrated that i'm so slow.

Car does not feel like a straight 6 down low in the rev unless turbo kicks in. Getting overtaken and beaten by 1.3L is a disgrace!

Is this normal or what's up with the car?

Any advice/help would be great.

Thanks guys.

Edited by starscream_r32
Branelly Enthusiast

Branelly

Posted
Posted

Sounds like you have a bad case of rb20, only way to fix it is with some extra capacity.

Also didnt you test drive this vehicle before driving it? Even if you were just riding passneger it should have been fairly obvious what sought of power you were getting.

Moodles2 Grand Master

Moodles2

Posted
Posted

Find out exactly the specs of the cams are, as they don't add power, but shift the power up higher in the revs which is why you are seeing no low to mid-end power, great for track driving... not so for daily driving. You could dial in the adj. gears to help bring the turbos on earlier but need a dyno to confirm the changes.

starscream_r32 Collaborator

starscream_r32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

lol.. guys i'm talking about racing off the line!

i'm saying normal driving/take off it's slow/sluggish unless i put the foot down and get it into the turbo boost band.

should still have some umphh even without the turbo kicking in? Its' an inline 6! feels slower then a 4cylinder. loll.

Turbo is hypergear 28?

Yes car is tuned.. (probs needs a retune) but it is tuned with current mods. about 235rwkw on dyno sheets.

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

its an RB20... has no VCT

There not that punchy off boost, but they do rev nice, most of the power is when the turbo comes in, and without the VCT you dont feel the torque like you do with a RB25

hypergear Grand Master

hypergear

Posted
Posted

Please show a photo of this turbo or the person whom you've got it from, I will be able to give you some specifications of it if it is one of ours. Also check the wastegate actuator adjustment. Make sure its tightly shut.

A healthy RB20det should still be pretty ok down low even without VCT. I would check cam timing and have a play with cam gear settings.

tm_r33 Experienced

tm_r33

Posted
Posted

u sure it doesnt have a dirty big set of 280 cam and some poorly matched or hybrid turbo?

cam and turbo selection can quiet easily make it feel like a bucket of shit down low

esky_mad Proficient

esky_mad

Posted
Posted

type in www.google.com and search RB20 lag...

Do some research on what parts you already have prior to running to a tuner. many will pick up you haven't got a clue and wrought you..

RB20's do not have low down torque. dont expect much until it comes on boost or at least is well above 3krpm.

ZCR Mentor

ZCR

Posted
Posted

lol.. guys i'm talking about racing off the line!

i'm saying normal driving/take off it's slow/sluggish unless i put the foot down and get it into the turbo boost band.

should still have some umphh even without the turbo kicking in? Its' an inline 6! feels slower then a 4cylinder. loll.

Turbo is hypergear 28?

Yes car is tuned.. (probs needs a retune) but it is tuned with current mods. about 235rwkw on dyno sheets.

RB20s are crap off boost. think of it like this, a 2 litre towing a 1300kg car, slow... 235rwkw from a 20 makes me think it would be really laggy which would then make the painful wait for boost even longer! i know mine is painful but my boost starts at just over 2000rpm (stock turbo lol)

having said that i don't know what difference cams and some of the other mods would make, mine only makes just over 160rwkw

Rekin Grand Master

Rekin

Posted
Posted

lol.. guys i'm talking about racing off the line!

i'm saying normal driving/take off it's slow/sluggish unless i put the foot down and get it into the turbo boost band.

should still have some umphh even without the turbo kicking in? Its' an inline 6! feels slower then a 4cylinder. loll.

Turbo is hypergear 28?

Yes car is tuned.. (probs needs a retune) but it is tuned with current mods. about 235rwkw on dyno sheets.

haha what you expect? To drive around below 2000rpm? This aint a V8. The engine was designed to rev out. Hell, the redline is 7700rpm afterall. If you are after more response, sell off the turbo and replace with a HKS2530. Comes on boost at 3800rpm~ and will give you max power of 210kw~ Else, live with it and rev out to 4000-5000rpm between shifts.

My r32 has an average fuel economy of 11.5Ltrs/100km~ Work out if yours is similar.

if you take the car on the track, you wont be seeing under 4000rpm anyways, so decide what the plan with the car is and start to change whatever you dont like.

starscream_r32 Collaborator

starscream_r32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

haha what you expect? To drive around below 2000rpm? This aint a V8. The engine was designed to rev out. Hell, the redline is 7700rpm afterall. If you are after more response, sell off the turbo and replace with a HKS2530. Comes on boost at 3800rpm~ and will give you max power of 210kw~ Else, live with it and rev out to 4000-5000rpm between shifts.

My r32 has an average fuel economy of 11.5Ltrs/100km~ Work out if yours is similar.

if you take the car on the track, you wont be seeing under 4000rpm anyways, so decide what the plan with the car is and start to change whatever you dont like.

i rarely got past 3k.

so ur saying if i keep all gear changes under 3k without kicking the turbo in then from stat to finish ill always be slower/behind other cars?

even lilttle 1.3,1.5L etcc are faster/ahead of me?

dunnoo. if u guys get what i'm talking about but yer... maybe u needa be in the car to understand..

everyone that sits in my car thinks its slow cos i keep it under 3k and not let the turbo kick in... but boy do they get a surprise when i rev it though..

lollll..

i'll get a retune and fix a few little stuff and see how i go..

=)

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

turbo cars are designed to go fast when boosted. Simple as that.

non turbo cars have the advantage of no lag, and I think your forgetting that some little cars, even with there small 1.4L engines etc, are still quite light and if there putting there foot flat to the floor, the engine will be at its peak performance, where as your RB20 at say 1/4 throttle, off boost will be no where near its potential.

your saying we arent getting it? is there a better way you can explain it if the above is not how your driving it?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Noice. Mostly.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yuck. But it's kinda the same principle, moving timing around to make car run bad but sound good.... I went for a more spirited tuning drive to iron out a few things. Car no longer stalls, and it loved to dip RPM low when you clutch in. After tuning this (and the 4-5 tables that HPTuners/LS1 OEM ECU wants for idle air correction) it's now behaving somewhat normal. All expected because there's a new TB, new Intake manifold and that new TB which is 102mm vs 78... has an entirely different IAC passage which is smaller because ????? Unfortunately at this point I went to make further fine tuning changes to avoid it flaring up, you know... _tuning_ the HPTuners dongle died. Well to be more accurate - The USB cable died in a fashion that anyone who has ever charged a phone will recognize. After the app demanding I resync it 50 or so times (which all 'succeeded' but all failed) the device does not want to sync and I've logged a ticket with support to see if it's fixable. US Support said it was a 'storage issue' but after removing the SD card inside it and formatting it/fixing it the issue does persist. Unfortunately usually the fix is "Turn in your old dongle and pay $700 for the upgraded one" it's cheaper because I get some free licence credits I unfortunately don't need. However I'm 10 minutes down the road from HP Tuners AUS/VCM so at least I won't need to post it, and logged a new ticket for support over here. Definitely drives different. My SOTP dyno believes it's probably making 310-320kw instead of the 280 before.  It scrambles for traction a little now whereas it previously different. It drives like a bigger cam car up top even though the cam is smaller, likely due to the cam not being advanced 6 degrees. The timing is deliberately low and the fuel is very rich so who knows if this will improve on the dyno. It may, imperceptably. Also funny is removing the pineapples definitely makes the car squat more and axle tramp less. So this behavior of having more top end, squatting more, and scrabbling for traction more makes me think = more power. But I could have just been sitting on the threshold of that kind of behavior before. Time will tell if my butt dyno is calibrated right. I need the exhaust leaks fixed before dyno tune for obvious AFR related reasons - I repositioned the pipes but I'm not confident it's fully sealed even if it is better. At least the car does drive around while I cannot tweak/tune it for now. And I have aircon again. medium success!
    • GTSBoy
      I need more than help to finish my R33

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Don't use that manifold. Please don't use that manifold. Sunk cost fallacy is not worth the later pain. None of these will be relevant to the change that will come from the different turbo and manifold. As in, the effect of the exhaust will be nil, regardless of what else is changed. And all the cam and fuel system stuff is not changing either way, so has no effect. The turbo and manifold (and to a small extent the wastegate)....big change.
    • marni
      I need more than help to finish my R33

      By marni · Posted

      Just wanted to say thank you for your input   my man (lead mechanic by trade) and I have done a heap of work as you can imagine just to make the hot side work with the dump pipe, stupid massive intake on turbo, trying to get the waste gate on was not fun.  I’m kinda getting to the point where I don’t know if I try and make this work and not throw all this cash and time away or do I scrap the lot and start again? the Apexi I’ve got was tuned for a few slight differences:   Tomei pon cams (mine are stock neo) Turbo smart 38mm external waste gate (mines 45mm replumbed) with stainless screamer pipe  3inch turbo back exhaust with high flow cat Sard 800cc top feed injectors Sard adjustable fuel pressure reg    
    • joshuaho96
      My BMW 335i

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Out here E90s are the cheapest way into a sporty-ish car because everyone knows just how expensive the repairs can get. 8-10k USD for an automatic 335i. 
×
×
  • Create New...