Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have recently purchased a r32 skyline gts. i had been driving it around perfectly fine for a couple of days then out of no where, the power windows and all the gages and warning lights except for the speedo stopped working. the engine still runs fine and the car drives without problems. anyone know what may have cause this?

thanks for the help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348008-electrical-problems/
Share on other sites

The speedo will work because it's mechanical.

Do the warning lights come on when you put the key to "ON", ie just before you start the engine? Any other symptoms you can tell us about?

Maybe check the fuses with a multimeter - often the fuse can look perfectly ok but have the smallest of breaks in the fuse material.

The fuses have two metal points on each end. Earth a test light and test both points of the fuse make sure all the dash/accessories/power window fuses work.

If you've got an aftermarket stereo, there is a slim chance the wires could be melted or somethings gone wrong. Ive seen a ford laser have its wires melted together because the draw of the headunit was too much for the wiring in the car. Caused alot of electrical issues..

  • 3 months later...

Car batteries are much better today than they were even a few years ago. I've had batteries last as long as 9 years in a car, which is amazing. Only a few years back, the "60 month" DieHard car battery from Sears was considered the top of the line. Technology has improved over time.But car batteries can fail at any time, even when brand new. And although they can last as long as 9 years, typically most fail in the 5-7 year range, if not before. And cheaper batteries might not last even that long.The failure mode of car batteries appears sudden, which is something that confuses people. Most folks' experience with batteries is based on flashlight or other consumer product batteries. A flashlight battery fails slowly over time, getting dimmer and dimmer, until one day, it is a mere flicker and then goes out. Consumers think that this gradual failure mode applies to car batteries as well, which is why they dismiss the battery as the problem when the car "suddenly" fails to start. bmw tail lights

Edited by jazmin
  • 8 months later...

anyone have any ideas?

my car has just randomly done the same thing except in a 32 gtr.

no dash warning lights when you turn the key to on, the front torque gauge goes all the way up to max, no power windows etc and there is a relay in the boot that keeps ticking every 30 seconds?

start the car and using a multimeter check if the alternator is charging. i have come across a number of cars that cause failure to dash and power windows etc. when there is a fault with the alternator. it could be the alternator itself or even a broken wire going to the alternator.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • On the bright side, at least you knew that it happened and remedied before anything happened. A friend of mine just took his Fiat 124 to a shop for an oil change and they didn't tighten the oil filter housing properly. 4.5 quarts spewed out and even after refilling + tightening the cap the engine has a tick now.
    • So, more pain. The FAST manifold is a little larger than the stocker. This is problematic because there really wasn't much clearance to begin with, so going from 'barely enough' well into 'no' is sad based on the external dimensions of the thing, even though where it bolts to the head is the same. Result is the fuel rails sit a good 25mm higher, and this is a bit of an issue with the wiring that runs behind the motor, and the fuel lines, and everything else. When pushing the manifold on, it required a huge amount of force to crush wiring looms to fit it, sensors like the MAP sensor are about 1mm from the firewall, and the FPR just has to bend ABS lines to be forced into place. After some brainstorming and some sad drinking, the loom for some reason ran from the grommet behind the ABS sensor, then to the driver side head, then back to the passenger side head. So all of this was pulled back and stripped, a few wires cut and rejoined, so that the 'branch' was now on the passenger side's head as below: Before you basically couldn't see anything behind the driver head. This is much improved! The MAP sensor is now pointing up (instead of at the firewall) Brackets have been made up for the rail. The rails are for a LS1, the manifold is designed around a LS2 as it's base. Which of course has slightly different bracketry and water pump clearance, hence the mods people need to do. Should be hopefully mounted tonight. I spent money on a new FPR that is slightly more compact than my Turbosmart FPR1200. The gauge has also been moved to the rail. There's also apparently an ORB to AN Union instead of the adapter, because the ~25mm of the current adapter is going to make the difference. Provided this all goes together and arrives today, it'll be the totally not stressful attempt to start it.
    • This seems like a pointless exercise. There is no E30 availability. Ongoing availability of E85 should not be assumed. Flex-fuel is the only sensible approach, so you can use E85 when and where you can get it, 98 when that's al you can get, and anything in between as you fill it up and drain it down. And if that means replacing the pumps, fitting a flex capable sensor/ECU/whatever has to be done to these Renault shitboxen, then.....so be it?
    • Sorry, I wasn't very clear.....just that the standard injectors are apparently good over 600rwhp/450rwkw which you won't get to on standard turbos anyway.....they are much better sized from factory than we are used to in RBs.
×
×
  • Create New...