Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Been a bit slow in this thread lately... so thought I'd stick up some pic's of the hydro handbrake I have been making after work this week. It's pretty much ready to bolt in and plumb up now.

Bits fresh out the mill ready for welding:

5260050683_e171f696da_b.jpg

Test fitting in my track 180 after welding:

5265473535_9024ca210e_b.jpg

Pivot base installed:

5268433582_0b5d12cda6_b.jpg

After glass beading and the adjustment lock nut turned up and installed:

5273052733_7590092963_b.jpg

The guts of it:

5273661338_0f7cb4a38f_b.jpg

Edited by samstain
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348019-vertical-hydro-handbrake/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

thats nice, scuse my ignorance, but do you then run the cable from the hand break forward instead and it pulls on the pivot rod?

this is the exact reason why I'm trying to convince my boss that HE needs a 3 axis mill........ So I can come in on weekends and play.

thats nice, scuse my ignorance, but do you then run the cable from the hand break forward instead and it pulls on the pivot rod?

this is the exact reason why I'm trying to convince my boss that HE needs a 3 axis mill........ So I can come in on weekends and play.

Hydraulic hand brakes dont use cables, the use the hydraulic brake lines, route then through a speceific master cylinder and the rear brakes are worked normally when the lever isnt used and when the lever is used it only works the rear brakes.

5265473535_9024ca210e_b.jpg

Im assuming from how it is mounted above and looking at the pic below that the upright in the pic below will have an extension slipped over it and/or bolted to it and the stick will come up through the hole where the stereo and pocket use to be, im also guessing that it will be bent in some way so the knob will be further back towards the driver.

All of this is just my assumption, would love to see finished pics.

5268433582_0b5d12cda6_b.jpg

yeah brett's right, the old handbrake will be ripped out, a handle custom handle slips on so the new mechansim and is screwed in to place (you can just see one of the holes in the last photo).

Photo 3 & 4 shows it without and with the handle.

The handle is just a bit of tube, so once the base is mounted I'll cut it to length and bend it if requried to get it in to a comfortable position.

  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
    • I'm almost at a point where I feel like changing the alternator. Need to check the stuff you mentioned first though.
×
×
  • Create New...