Combined Ebc And Fuel-Cut Defender?

[benro2]

My car is pretty much dead stock, meaning stock turbo, SMIC, all that stuff, and I don't want to spend too much on it, so I was wondering if there is a single unit that controls both boost electronically and AFR's?

Or, maybe there is a piggyback ECU for around the same cost that does both these things?

I'm planning on just running 10 psi and leaning out the AFR's a bit. I'd like to be able to switch back to the original ECU map / AFR's and dial back the boost just in case I'm on a long trip and can't get 98 RON, or maybe change the boost curve a bit for the rain, etc., so I only need 2 preset boost levels and basically and on/off switch for the AFR.

I've already had the Jaycar IECB and DFA's but I never got them working so figured I should just go with a pre-built unit

Alternatively, if there is no combined unit, what's the best (cheap, maybe 2nd hand) EBC and AFR units? I've found a Blitz Dual SBC on ebay for ~$250 shipped but haven't looked up fuel cut defenders because I'm not sure which is the best to go for. Are these units OK 2nd hand and how much should I be paying for both?

Edit: I just remembered, the EBC will need to hold a rock solid 10 psi no matter whether it's 0C or 40C! As you know, the stock turbo / SMIC combo isn't real reliable over 10 psi And I'm sick of manual BC's having wildly fluctuating boost!!

Edited December 19, 2010 by benro2

[KiwiRS4T]

Yes a Link will do all that and more but you'll be up for $2k (+ installation and tuning). Honestly I wouldn't bother - just use a cheap bleed valve to up the boost a little( or better still get someone to help you get the Jaycar IEBC working - its a great unit - I have had one) and save up for your first usefull mod - a 3in turbo back exhaust.

[benro2]

Yes a Link will do all that and more but you'll be up for $2k (+ installation and tuning). Honestly I wouldn't bother - just use a cheap bleed valve to up the boost a little( or better still get someone to help you get the Jaycar IEBC working - its a great unit - I have had one) and save up for your first usefull mod - a 3in turbo back exhaust.

I've already got a bleed valve on there (supposedly the best) and it doesn't hold the boost at the preset level because of the variations of ambient temp. So for instance on a cold night, at say 10C, it will run around 10 psi instead of the 7.5 psi I set it to at 20C. This is a big problem because the ECU goes into R&R as *soon* as it sees anything over about 8 psi! Or, say on a 30+C day, it won't run 7.5 unless I give it a fair bit more throttle.

I did have the IEBC running briefly and it used to hold a rock solid 10 psi, but then it started frying components so I gave it and the DFA to another forum member on here. That was probably 2-3 years ago now... He says he can't fix it because he doesn't have the full test instructions. I've looked in the Silicon Chip mag and in the instructions that came with the kit and can't find what he's talking about, so I'm kinda stuck

I don't really want to do any other mods to the car as it's my daily. Plus, since it's an auto, an exhaust is out of the question - don't ask me why, but I just have a thing about autos with aftermarket exhausts on them Plus, not worth getting an FMIC if I'm not doing an exhaust, so it's basically just these 2 kits and that'll be it!

[benro2]

Simply for those who come across this thread in their searches... nothing more infuriating than finding what you're looking for, only with no answer or follow up! Especially since I couldn't find anything on this topic..

So yes, as it turns out, there is a device that will control both boost and fuel adjustments, amongst other stuff. It's the Haltech Platinum Interceptor and it's around $750. That sounds a bit pricey but when you consider the costs of a decent EBC and fuel adjustment, you're up for $750+ anyway.

This is what the Haltech page says about it:

The Platinum Interceptor is a totally new “piggy back” ECU designed to work in parallel with your existing factory ECU.

The Platinum Interceptor provides tuning of fuel mixtures, ignition timing, boost levels and many other features. The Platinum Interceptor is installed using a universal type wiring loom and tuning is performed on a laptop with user friendly Interceptor software for Windows. As the Platinum Interceptor works with the factory ECU, you need only tune where necessary, maximising power whilst maintaining factory levels of economy, idle quality, cold start etc.

Performance has never been achieved so quickly, easily and affordably.

The Platinum Interceptor has been fully tested on many makes and models, with the range of supported vehicles constantly being expanded.

[KiwiRS4T]

Or you could just get an Apexi SAFC for $100 and a cheap manual bleed valve - won't make much difference if the boost creeps up a pound or two on a cold day. If the loom extender doesn't come with the Haltech that's another $300. As well as a laptop you'll need a dyno - wideband meter etc. You don't need to change the boost curve for the rain - just adjust foot pressure on the accelerator pedal.

[benro2]

Or you could just get an Apexi SAFC for $100 and a cheap manual bleed valve - won't make much difference if the boost creeps up a pound or two on a cold day. If the loom extender doesn't come with the Haltech that's another $300. As well as a laptop you'll need a dyno - wideband meter etc. You don't need to change the boost curve for the rain - just adjust foot pressure on the accelerator pedal.

Yeah, I already know about those options, and I'm sure the SAFC is fine, but I already have a manual bleed valve and I don't like it. Boost fluctuates at least 3-4 psi between say 10C and 40C which is too much, especially on a stock turbo. Not having an SAFC means my power totally dies as soon as I hit > 8 psi on a cold night.

Even if I just went with the SAFC and MBC, I risk blowing the turbo as they don't fare well with > 10 psi. Yeah, it's an excuse to get a new turbo but I don't think the car is worth spending that sort of money on (it's my daily). Getting rid of it soon anyway (so obviously I'm not going with the Haltech )...

I can't remember if the guy said the Haltech comes with the loom extender but I don't think it matters anyway, I recall him showing me a wiring diagram and it doesn't take too long to hook up manually anyway.

You'd need a dyno + wideband meter to tune the SAFC anyway. At least that's what I'd be doing - not worth doing unless it's done properly.

LOL it's not quite that simple with the foot pressure/boost theory. When I had the Jaycar EBC hooked up it made the turbo *very* responsive, even a little too much, which made it dangerous in the rain, especially since it's an auto. With a manual it may be OK. Obviously with a turbo it's not a linear curve between foot pressure and torque, which makes it a lot harder to control with your foot. Having a 2nd boost preset curve for the rain would make it a lot safer to drive, plus I could set it up to run 10 psi boost from say 5k onwards anyway which would make the car feel quick as it would feel like a big single (kind of) ... obviously if you're in the rain you won't be reaching 5k in an auto without asking for it

[zebra]

Is this for the Supra or the Skyline.

If the Supra the stock twins have next to zero boost control when fitted with an aftermarket exhaust

My TT Soarer is auto, and never have a problem controlling wheel spin in the wet...and thats with no LSD

[benro2]

Is this for the Supra or the Skyline.

If the Supra the stock twins have next to zero boost control when fitted with an aftermarket exhaust

My TT Soarer is auto, and never have a problem controlling wheel spin in the wet...and thats with no LSD

Ah sorry, this is for the Skyline.

Yeah, tell me about the Supra's boost creep problems Luckily mine is behaving itself as I'm running the stock midpipe which acts as a natural restriction so it's fine. Some guys replace this pipe only to have to put a restrictor back in... why do it? So my pipe sizes from the engine are 3.0" downpipe, 2.5" (?) midpipe, 3.0" (?) from cat to first muffler, 3.75" to rear muffler (Apexi GT-Spec catback)

I suspect because your Soarer is heavier and with softer suspension, rear end grip would be much better than in the Skyline. I've never driven one but I've read that the TT models are actually less responsive than the later single turbo models? If this is the case, then I suspect an auto GTS-T with an EBC would be much more touchy. Are you running an EBC in the Soarer?

[zebra]

While its a bit doughy down low boost comes on very hard when you give it some stick.

I was running an EBC but took it out for rego and never bothered putting it back in.

[benro2]

While its a bit doughy down low boost comes on very hard when you give it some stick.

I was running an EBC but took it out for rego and never bothered putting it back in.

Sounds like my Supra The previous owner put it into TTC mode (and did a very "permanent" job too) so I've just gotten used to it like that. I figure I may as well if I ever wanna go big single Even with an EBC it's got pretty much no boost until around 2.5k, full boost around 3.5k. Apparently this is a lot better than what others are getting (I'm running a PowerFC and other mods) - they don't get any boost until 3.0-3.5k or full boost until 4.5k!

If your EBC wasn't making any diff then I spose no point putting it back in. Are you sure you had it tuned properly?