Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Quick FMIC piping opinions needed here.

I noticed there is 2 ways to run your cooler piping on the car.

1. run turbo pipe straight down front passenger side and run throttle pipe in opposite direction in front of the cam gears and between the radiator.

2. Run both piping going through the passenger side.

I didn't really notice this or even think about it until i took my car down to O.H performance.

Where one of the guys pointed out that since i'm running the throttle cooler piping through the front and past the cam gears/belts/radiator the pipe get's hot.

He told me to touch the pipe while the car was running and sure enough.. it was pretty bloody hot.

So he suggested to run the pipes both to passenger side.

Does anyone have any opinions about this?

Would it affect the performance of the car by much?

Just trying to work out if it's worth relocating both pipes as per how the guys said.

Cheers.

Edited by starscream_r32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348039-intercooler-piping/
Share on other sites

If you already have a FMIC installed i wouldnt bother changing.

At least with the "over the radiator" style pipe route you have a good hole for directing cold air to your air filter.

I have a Blitz LM Intercooler, that uses both holes on the passenger side, and the pipes are still hot too. So i wouldnt worry too much. The engine bays get VERY hot when you are stationary with the bonnet closed too.

Your mechanic sell Intercoolers by chance?

Yeah as said above dont worry about it. Only 2 reasons where you would consider changing is if you intercooler you have at the moment is causing a restriction to your power or if you get a defect for cutting a hole.

I had it run in front the cam gears between the rad, but that pipe was the outlet from the comp so it was going to be as hot as anyway and the other pipe was after the cooler up the passenger side to the intake which had a smaller run exposed to absorb engine bay heat

only thing is my afm is actaully on the cold pipe that goes to engine/just before the throttle body..

so the cold air that goes to the air filter is pretty much useless?

Don dada: your option sounds good.. prob easier for to change it like that.

U can get the piping shorter and less prone to engine bay heat if u make a 300ish degree bend at the throttle body to angle it straight for the battery tray and straight through the hole. That's what my brother did on the intercoolers he's done on RB's.

If U want to keep using the holes on the passenger side, I'd only do that if I had an intercooler with end tanks top and bottom with outlets facing to the side like the GKTech no holes kit (not for skylines but u'll get the idea about the intercooler design).

Edited by bradsm87

or if it becomes a real problem run the piping under the radiator like i have done on my vl that way its not in the engine bay collecting heat and the cool air from driving keeps thepipe cool. thats how the GKtech no holes kit works on a vl

The only way to really get rid of te heat from the pipes is to run a front facing plenum or maybe the above method. My pipes with the front David plenum show a great temperature difference

After driving the car i can hardly touch the pipes on the hot side of the intercooler and can quite easily hold my hand on the cool side of the piping near the throttle body. Mines all stainless piping but without putting a heat gun on it, the differences feels about 20 degrees or more

Unless your chasing big numbers I wouldn't worry to much about it though.

U can get the piping shorter and less prone to engine bay heat if u make a 300ish degree bend at the throttle body to angle it straight for the battery tray and straight through the hole. That's what my brother did on the intercoolers he's done on RB's.

If U want to keep using the holes on the passenger side, I'd only do that if I had an intercooler with end tanks top and bottom with outlets facing to the side like the GKTech no holes kit (not for skylines but u'll get the idea about the intercooler design).

any chance u can show me show pics of it?

would be great!

alsoo. if your running a full aftermarket comp it should really matter if the pipe gets hot right?

cos with the ecu u can tune it to always read cool/cold air is coming through even if it's not the case?

trying to figure out if it's worth changing the setup.

=)

any chance u can show me show pics of it?

would be great!

alsoo. if your running a full aftermarket comp it should really matter if the pipe gets hot right?

cos with the ecu u can tune it to always read cool/cold air is coming through even if it's not the case?

trying to figure out if it's worth changing the setup.

=)

dont mean to sound rude but if you read the above they do say about 3 times not worth changing them so why you still trying to figure it out

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
    • Stop looking at the garage floor, and turn the radio up a bit louder if there's any strange noises...
    • No. Turbo shuffle and surge/flutter are not the same thing. Specifically, on a GTR, turbo shuffle has a definite meaning. On a GTR, the twin turbos are assumed to be the same thing and to operate the same way, exactly. In reality, they do not. Their exhaust sides are fed and exhaust a little differently, to each other. Their inlet sides are fed and exhausted a little differently, to each other. Consequently, when they are "working" they are often at slightly different points on the compressor map compared to each other. What this means, particularly when coming on boost, is that one of them will spool up and start producing extra flow compared to the other, which will put back pressure on that other compressor, which will push the operating point on that other compressor up (vertically). This will generally result in it bumping up against the surge line on the map, but even if it doesn't, it upsets the compressor and you get this surging shuffle back and forth between them That is "turbo shuffle" on a GTR. It is related to other flutter effects heard on other turbo systems, but it is a particular feature of the somewhat crappy outlet piping arrangement on RB26s. There are plenty of mods that have been attempted with varying levels of success. People have ground out and/or welded more material into the twin turbo pipe to try to prevent it. Extending the divider inside it works, removing material doesn't. There are aftermarket replacement twin turbo pipes available, and these exist pretty mush purely because of this shuffle problem.
    • You can temporarily* use lock collars to keep it in place until you can do the bushes, back the nuts off, slide them in, snug back up. *temporarily is often for ever
    • Thanks for the quick reply. To be clear, when you say turbo shuffle do you mean turbo flutter "stustustu" or referring to something else? I had thought they were the same thing. When I wrote the post my intention was to say it wasn't a flutter/compression surge sound. My understanding was that a flutter sound would be occurring when throttle is released, whereas I can keep the throttle in the same position for this noise
×
×
  • Create New...