Jump to content
SAU Community

Da Bitch Is Back


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 78
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Nahh - not true at all... My turbo's a low mount! :(

 

matt

dont worry, he knows it's gonna fit.

He just trying to make himself sound better as he paid for a manifold and i didnt :aroused:

Actually the GT30 is the same size as the old t3/4 that i pulled off.

So it's almost a direct bolt back in. With a stoke of luck the dump pipe might go back on too.

It'll be very close looking at it all.

dont worry, he knows it's gonna fit.

He just trying to make himself sound better as he paid for a manifold and i didnt   :aroused:  

Actually the GT30 is the same size as the old t3/4 that i pulled off.

So it's almost a direct bolt back in. With a stoke of luck the dump pipe might go back on too.  

It'll be very close looking at it all.

yes but it was a tight fit @ that :P

yeah gt30 lowmount can be done but not if you get a dodgy manifold :0

Got my XTR exhaust housing thermal blanket. Bit of a bitch to fit coz the turbo is so close to the cam covers.

Also i was sizing up some rice for the engine bay, namly new hoses, pressure piping etc. :D

Got my HKS EVC 3 arriving on tuesday so i will run a few more psi and see what it pulls out.

  • 4 weeks later...
Guest INASNT
Looks like the the HKS EVC is handling your boost ok... how are you finding it?

I got a HKS EVC 3 and it works so much better with an external gate than the greedy profec b spec 2.

Car is getting detailed this week inside and out for autosalon as i will post some pics of it after that coz it preety filthy atthe moment. :D

Guest INASNT
nice power curve dude, it looks like it's got the minerals up top.

good results for 20psi.

mine goes on the dyno tomorrow, to do a power run as it is, and then boost's going up  ;-)

I was gonna chuck some 106 RON fuel in there and play around a bit but it a nice safe tune for now so the engine survives till i decide to decompress it and beef up the bottom end.

Wow! that's great denham. How safe is it at 280rwkw, I'm only asking as I was planning on getting my tuned for around 250-260rwkw as I was told that would be safe. Hanging to get my car back. I also ended up going for the gcg high mount manifold... :rofl:

Guest INASNT
Wow! that's great denham. How safe is it at 280rwkw, I'm only asking as I was planning on getting my tuned for around 250-260rwkw as I was told that would be safe. Hanging to get my car back. I also ended up going for the gcg high mount manifold... :rofl:

not very safe if u hit boost in 3rd at around 100 with a bit of moisture on the road and u go across 3 lanes sideways till u pull 4th gear :D

I drive on 1 bar most of the time on low boost which is about 250rwkw and only 19psi for fun times!!

If u dont drive like a knob all the time then ur engine will be safe, just keep an eye out on the knock levels when u r giving it a hard time

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I should try the experiment you're talking about, the throttle switch is still there carried over from the R32 and it's still all wired up but after I did the whole intake manifold refurb and had to recalibrate the TPS I managed to somehow get the idle switch reporting activation at 0.22V, then when I adjusted it to 0.45V for idle it decided the engine was permanently no longer idling which caused some very weird behavior, closed loop idle was disabled so it would basically be at the whims of the cold start valve and whatever the base timing table was at. Then just unplugging/replugging the TPS with the ECU live caused it to relearn the idle TPS position and decide 0.45V was idle. Presumably there's nothing in the TPS that allows for the throttle switch to "recalibrate" like that, not easily at least.
    • Duh... to answer my own silly question, it's actually described in the FSM... ...400 pages away at the end of the manual, for RB25DE/DET signal descriptions, it cites the TPSwitch signal action, is dependent on the TPSensor value ~ this tends to infer the builtin POT voltage signal is the primary, and the switches are fallback/secondary should the POT fail/TPSensor signal lost (and switch alone with no TPSensor signal allows for base idle speed setting).... makes sense... they (TPS units) used to fail/wear the POT with time, they're not exactly built to last ~ having the switch as a redundancy gets around this...(or, it's less likely both signals would be lost as they're on different power rails)... and of course wrt RB26DETT, you have to electrically disconnect the IACV solenoid from the harness, to defeat idle air control...  
    • Dose is unaware just how much fun 145-150kw would be in a 2.5L NC MX5. It would be one of the most fun things to drive to ever grace SAU.
    • Same thought crossed my mind ~ depends on how one connotes 'stalling'...ie; gets a rough/stumbling idle as it get warm until it stalls... or... idles ok and simply falls-over when it gets to temp... ...you can test the whole circuit with a couple of resistors ...unplug coolant temp sensor, bridge terminals with a 2K7 resistor (ECU will do cold start), or with engine warm bridge with a 330R resistor (ECU will consider engine to be at normal operating temp)...it's a quick way to check wiring integrity/ECU response when you don't have a multimeter handy ...
    • They also make them with the motor mounted on the side 
×
×
  • Create New...