Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

can anyone help me i have just put a S2 engine into my S1 33 skyline and im trying to get it started it will turn over but will not fire it has no spark what could my problem bee what shoild i do to get this sorted????

Take the Cam Angle Sensor off, leave it connected to the loom and slowly turn the gear around, listen for the injectors clicking away happily, or not so happily. If they are opening and closing, take a plug out, and leave in in it's coil pack, rest it on the block so you can see the gap, and turn the lights out and slowly turn the CAS gear over, you should see a spark, be careful tho, that can give you a belt if you are holding onto it while rotating the CAS.

Both of the above require the igniton on, tell us how you go.

If you're attempting to use the S1 loom/computer with the S2 coil packs, the ignitor setup is all different.

Ignitor on S1 is the item that sits up the back.

On the S2 it is built into each coil pack.

Going through the same thing but i havent put the engine in yet though, im using S1 loom, S1 coils and igniter but im going to see the result with S2 TPS and CAS, if i have to get these too or not.

im also thinking you've mixed up s1 and s2 ignition parts. either use s1 coil packs and ignitor pack or just the s2 coil packs (not sure if you need to use the s2 ecu if you're using the s2 coil packs though).

ive installed a s2 engine using all of my s1 accessories - works perfectly fine. the only issue you'll have with the s2 throttle body is the loom plug - you'll have to check if the s1 fits as it has 2 plugs coming off the TPS. the series 1 and 2 CAS's are interchangeable.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...