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Loosing Traction At 5700Rpm...230 Rwkw Rb20Det

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Plan-FAILURE Rising Star

Plan-FAILURE

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You could run less boost at lower gears. This is common on newer cars with turbos. I think the Apexi AVC-R allows this....good luck setting it up.

So you'd run approximately 8psi in 1st, 10psi in 2nd, 16psi in 3rd, 4th, 5th.

Yeah! There we go! Someone that knows what I'm chasing and doesn't make a smart ass remark.

Can my Greddy Profec B II do this?

Props for finally addressing the tuning side of the equation :worship:

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Plan-FAILURE
Plan-FAILURE

Yeah I have the stock coilovers that came on all R32 GTSTs 4 pots on front, stock discs 2 pot on rears, stock discs I think I'm going to... Tune Coilovers (36 way adjustable eliminating need for

Plan-FAILURE
Plan-FAILURE

Title says it all. My R32 GTS-T is making just over 230 rwkw at 16 psi and it is simply impossible to get it over 5700rpm without loosing traction. I would really like to redline the car just once o

Plan-FAILURE
Plan-FAILURE

Bridestone Turanzas are shit? Don't think so. They were upper mid range last time I checked. I spin 1st and 2nd, chirp 3rd and 4th holds. My clutch aint slippin LOL The reason I mentioned adjusting

Plan-FAILURE Rising Star

Plan-FAILURE

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So, on the weekend i was making around 240rwkws from my RB20 and on a slippery track that had been wet, but still not quite dry I can flatten 3rd gear. In the dry there is absolutely no problem with traction in 2nd and 3rd. 1st is a bit of a challnege, but if i shift smoothly and sensibly to second and then to 3rd no wheelsping whatsoever.

I gave my suspension to a friend a while back so he could track his R32 and whilst i had his Tein HCs or HR or something in my car I would have the same problem in 3rd gear with it wheelspinning. The springs and valving were too high, or just wrong and ride height was way too low at about 325mm....though it looked cool :)

So as others have said, check ride height is sensible, alignment and quality of shocks good, decent diff and tyres and you will have no problem with full throttle power down in 2nd gear with 230rwkws

Would screwed stock coilys on the back promote wheelspin or improve bog in? Buddy Club BRs are on there way yeww!

75coupe Grand Master

75coupe

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getting 'BCs' wont solve the problem, they'll need to be setup properly, then camber alignment will be needed since you'll probably want to lower the height having 'coilovers', then you'll definitely have a camber issue,

if you have stock suspension you shouldnt really have a camber issue, so maybe there is something else wrong, Im using the crappiest cheapest crap tyres but with good alignment and Im holding 290 fairly well with a very responsive turbo.

battery Mentor

battery

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tuning it out with a a boost controller is retarded... your loosing power/responce.

get some good tyres, ku36's would do the job. and if you still have an issue then i'd be very suprised.

also getting coilovers could make it worse.

Plan-FAILURE Rising Star

Plan-FAILURE

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getting 'BCs' wont solve the problem, they'll need to be setup properly, then camber alignment will be needed since you'll probably want to lower the height having 'coilovers', then you'll definitely have a camber issue,

if you have stock suspension you shouldnt really have a camber issue, so maybe there is something else wrong, Im using the crappiest cheapest crap tyres but with good alignment and Im holding 290 fairly well with a very responsive turbo.

Ok I'll just say that my wheelspin comes on at 5700 - 6000 rpm (just before I change gear)

My initial concern was that it was abnormal not to be able to pull all the way to redline but if I'm reaching max power sooner this isn't bad? Its actually better? Yeah?

I will say I'm being quite picky as the car is wicked to drive with or without that top end traction...

Plan-FAILURE Rising Star

Plan-FAILURE

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tuning it out with a a boost controller is retarded... your loosing power/responce.

get some good tyres, ku36's would do the job. and if you still have an issue then i'd be very suprised.

also getting coilovers could make it worse.

Ok. How is this RETARDED?

Optimising power delivery and torque through boost/ecu settings seems to be a fairly sensible option. Would you care to ellaborate? Or were you just shooting your mouth off because others have come out with same shit responses?

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

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Thanks heaps for all the info bro. But...

I HAVE BRAND NEW BRIDGESTONE TURANZAS 235/50/R16 FRONT AND REAR.

Old tyres were some chinese wholesale crap.

Correct I'm on full boost at approx 4200-4300rpm

I guess my main concern was that my car should be able to get to redline before it started spinning but I believe now I'm wrong?

The car drives wicked but not being able traction to redline concerned me. Guess it is my furst turbo haha.

Sounds like I need to get my modulation on :cool:

Bridgestone Turanza = Passenger car tyre, not a performance tyre.

I mean they would have cost what, $100ea or so?

But some proper tyres, or learn to drive.

I drive 280rwkw, with RE001's and i barely have a problem with flat to the floor acceleration unless the road is nasty.

75coupe Grand Master

75coupe

Posted
Posted (edited)

it is abnormal to not to be able to hold that amount of power better than what your describing, less your running a completely stripped lightweight shell with absolutely no weight on the rear wheels.

I dont think your being picky at all, I do think you have a traction issue...

If I push 2nd gear flat I'll get wheelspin at 6800rpm because that where max power is being created, but that is 60rwkw more than what your running, at 250rwkw I didnt have a wheelspin issue like your describing...

so yeah you have a problem somewhere...

but dont just turn your power down, find the issue, get traction, enjoy it even more....

Im using nangkang NS2 tyres and they are a $160 each tyre and are crap and cheap but they serve a purpose to me, Im saving my good tyres for decent driving...

Edited by 75coupe
Plan-FAILURE Rising Star

Plan-FAILURE

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Bridgestone Turanza = Passenger car tyre, not a performance tyre.

I mean they would have cost what, $100ea or so?

But some proper tyres, or learn to drive.

I drive 280rwkw, with RE001's and i barely have a problem with flat to the floor acceleration unless the road is nasty.

Oh...is this in your R31?

Edited by plan-b
Plan-FAILURE Rising Star

Plan-FAILURE

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it is abnormal to not to be able to hold that amount of power better than what your describing, less your running a completely stripped lightweight shell with absolutely no weight on the rear wheels.

I dont think your being picky at all, I do think you have a traction issue...

If I push 2nd gear flat I'll get wheelspin at 6800rpm because that where max power is being created, but that is 60rwkw more than what your running, at 250rwkw I didnt have a wheelspin issue like your describing...

so yeah you have a problem somewhere...

but dont just turn your power down, find the issue, get traction, enjoy it even more....

Im using sumitomo NS2 tyres and they are a $160 each tyre and are crap and cheap but they serve a purpose to me, Im saving my good tyres for decent driving...

Thanks bro. Your time and consideration is much appreciated. We'll see what the shootout/tune holds in store tomorrow!

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

Would screwed stock coilys on the back promote wheelspin or improve bog in? Buddy Club BRs are on there way yeww!

Screwy coilovers = hell yeh hopeless traction.

Have a look at this vid. I was running 20psi, and about 260-270rwkws on the day. I was running hopeless old Nankang 235/40/18s so nothing extoic.

I run a std 200,000km old RB20 gearbox so dont launch the car hard but you can see second gear has no problems with traction. Dont mind all the problems I am having under brakes...I am in the middle of changing brakes over and did this day to just give the tune and setup a good test. But you can see good traction with that amount of power is not difficult

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