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I have a Series III R33 GTR with just an exhaust and PFC with boost controller fitted.

What would be a good next step to increase power and more importantly response?

Car currently has 292 rwhp

I smashed my clutch foot years ago in a MC accident so I really don't want to have to put in a heavy clutch and spoil the experience.

It's been suggested to upgrade the turbos to R34 ball bearing units and maybe Tomei pon b cams.

I was considering -5 turbos but that would mean injectors and new AFMs as well and may end up needing the dreaded heavy clutch.

This car will do the odd motorsport event but manly be babied on the street where I really enjoy the driveability

Any advice welcome

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Power goal?

I would get close to stock turbo size but steel wheels so they dont shatter and take ur engine with them.

N1 turboes from a 34 will be good for 300kw and still very good response.

-5s are laggy and not suited well to a stock motor unless running 22+ psi

Hmm Power goal

292@13psi at present so maybe 350?

The engine is in really good condition and even had the stock boost restrictor until i fitted the PFC couple of months ago so pumping 22psi into it is not what I really want to do.

Thanks for the help guys

The -7 is just an older version of the -9 pretty much.

U can get it without actuator: 707160-9

Or with actuator: 780371-1

It's technically a GT2859R

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/catelog/Turbochargers/GT28/GT2859R_707160_9.htm

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/catelog/Turbochargers/GT28/GT2859R_780371_1.htm

Hmm Power goal

292@13psi at present so maybe 350?

The engine is in really good condition and even had the stock boost restrictor until i fitted the PFC couple of months ago so pumping 22psi into it is not what I really want to do.

Thanks for the help guys

currently i have PFC, cam gears, kakimoto exhaust from dumps back, b/c, 14and abit PSI on stock turbos with a safe tune and have 350awhp on my 33GTR

i am looking at putting -9s in next yr, for safety reasons more then power lol

really easy with these cars to make power!!!

really recommend cam gears!!!!

  • 2 weeks later...

I like the idea of the -9's if I don't have to change the AFM's and injectors at the same time.

Could I change the AFM's and injectors later for more power or would that be all the -9's are good for?

As stated the stock injectors and AFMs are ok to about 280kw, so just run 12psi or whatever gets you to 280kw with the -9s.

FWIW, -9s are about $400 more a pair than -7s when you include actuator cost. If you want <320kw you may prefer to save the $400, but if you want to push to 330+ the -9 are definitely the way to go - better turbos no doubt.

Of course you'll need to re-tune when you change turbos, and also when you change injectors and/or AFMs.

there are quite a few twin plates out there that will give you a very light pedal feel to hold 300-350kw quite easily (dont forget that the clutch pedal is vacuum assisted in gtr's so that helps also)

i have a OS Giken STR 2CD in my gtr and its very light but still bites very well - its not harsh when cold but if i warm it up it means business - very happy with it

mate whether u like it or not when u start putting more power into gtrs a twin plate clutch is almost a necesity.

From everything ive read and from my own personal experience you cant got past a Nismo super copermix twin plate clutch.

ive got the competition model one in my car and its only fractionaly heavier than stock and realy simple to use.

has stood up to 427kw and still going strong being driven every day.

As for the turbos, get a good set of dump pipes while you have the turbos out of the car for that little bit of extra power

mate whether u like it or not when u start putting more power into gtrs a twin plate clutch is almost a necesity.

I'm running a cheap ass nice soft pedal $500 organic single plate with 305kw - no problems....An NPC or Jim Berry organic could no doubt hold more, and we're not even talking about buttons/ceramics yet. So, twin plate are not necessary unless you head well north of 300kw IMO.

I'm running a cheap ass nice soft pedal $500 organic single plate with 305kw - no problems....An NPC or Jim Berry organic could no doubt hold more, and we're not even talking about buttons/ceramics yet. So, twin plate are not necessary unless you head well north of 300kw IMO.

go a do a couple of back to back 8000rpm launches and see how well it holds up

go a do a couple of back to back 8000rpm launches and see how well it holds up

"I smashed my clutch foot years ago in a MC accident so I really don't want to have to put in a heavy clutch and spoil the experience."

"This car will do the odd motorsport event but manly be babied on the street where I really enjoy the driveability"

Those statements suggest to me that the 8000rpm launch use case is not relevant :nyaanyaa:

I took my 32GTR to the drags and managed a 13.6 400m

Guy bought the car and next month ran a 12.6 in the came car

Difference was he launched at 8000rpm whereas I wouldn't do that.

12 years of rallying taught me not to be too hard on a car so if the clutch won't take full bore launches I' rather drive around the weakness and enjoy a nice drive package.So you read my intentions perfectly MrStabby.

if a twin plate clutch drives nicely I'd be all for it so I'll have a look at those.

Did chase power in a 33GTS about 10 years ago and spoilt the car with a heavy clutch so sold it

Definitely don't want to repeat that mistake again.

Thanks everyone for the help and advice so far

Edited by R34

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