$900: 18" X 8" X 9" 114.3 - 5 Studd Rims: Some Dish (Needs New Tyres)
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If you have the original log book and it didn't have a chassis number quoted, then no money required. I have "rechassied" a number of race cars, no problem as long as you have the original log book. Cheers Gary -
By robbo_rb180 · Posted
Yeah was planned, cheers. -
Well the good news is that it won't run any worse with an atmo bov than it does with no bov, I've owned a few Nissans over the years (r32, s15 and now r33), the stalling issue caused by a bov or no bov while still having an afm is easy enough to live with, most people get used to driving them and just feathering the throttle when you come to a stop to avoid it stalling. Changing to a proper ecu with a map sensor is ideal but in the short term I'd just slap in the bov if you really want the whoosh sound. I looked into the pass through type maf like the R35 one above but decided against it as the amount of oil and crap flowing through the hot side would mean you'd have to clean it often to keep it working. -
Build an 800hp motor. Make it as bullet proof as you want, you WILL still break things. Like, the rest of the car. Heck, even as a dead stock car, things will still break, but the more power, the more everything else will let go easier. From gearbox gear sets, to extra stress on the chassis/mounts, more stress on diff, axles, tailshaft, even the suspension mounts. Check out the motorsport build that last year went to a Bosch motor sport ABS setup, and now can brake so damn hard it's twisting mounts for suspension/subframe etc. Now if the brakes can do it, imagine what happens with super grippy tyres and 800hp in a low gear... Shit, I'm presently out fixing the girlfriends daily driver that rarely sees past 3,000rpm and is used to cart the dogs around in. Everything WILL break. If you don't want it to break, don't drive it. And then laugh, as it will still break without even being driven! -
ECUMaster is an Australian company from memory, been around a while, and seem to actually play really well on more unique engine setups. Seems to be more of them being used in the states, and they seem to support more cylinders than most others. My opinion on stock ECU/Nistune with he AFM, is you can tune around the issue of stalling. It's still a bit of a band-aid, and not the most perfect smoothest setup, but it can make it drive able and not an absolute PITA. But you're still compromising. A vent to atmosphere BOV has the same issue as no BOV with regards to the AFM. Both make the ECU think more air is entering the engine than there really is. And I can't find any hard science/decent evidence that supports the claims all the "you MUST run a BOV of some sort of you'll blow the turbo up". About the only one some people can give of why is "lag between gear shifts", and that is only an issue when your boost source for the waste gate is pre throttle body. I ran my boost source for the TD07S off the inlet manifold. Didn't have weird boost spiking issues, didn't have boost control issues, and on a gear shift the wastegate slammed shut, which meant all exhaust gases would be keeping it going round and round and not waiting for the wastegate to shut again when I stepped off the clutch and back on the loud pedal. It came back on boost in the next gear pretty much instantly. ECU / tune / BOV choice I think really comes down to a lot more factors than just what you've stated. And personally, especially for daily driving, recirc setup for the BOV, or no BOV. I dislike the really loud BOV when everyone is taking off from the lights etc.
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