Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Very nice :rant: How are u feeling with that kind of power and stock internals?

Is the car driven often? How many KM are on the engine? Whats minimum boost you run?

What boost is the efficiency range of the 3037?

And whats the approx cost of the 3037?

  • Replies 125
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Fair bit of extra piping, WTF???? dude, it could be 300 metres long and it would make stuff all difference, if you look at the stock plumb back pipe its actuall about the same lenght as mine, and FYI, it IS a plumback BOV.

Knore, no probs, stock internals are fine (decompress the engine thought), daily driver that gets regular doses of WOT. Car did around 10,000kms on that turbo ( a bit under actually). Boost, efficiency is around 0.8 to 1.2, thats where they really seem to do amazing things.

3037, depending on where you buy them, between 4-6K new

Steve the turbo you used was a normal HKS GT3037 with a .87AR exhaust housing ? Does this mean the manifold and exhaust housing have the T28 flange ?

I was wondering about trying one of these (Garrett version same wheels) with a 1.06 housing on my RB26/31 . Most people are saying the GT37 compressor won't keep up with three litres so go a GT35R . Whats your opinion ?

Cheers A .

discopotato,

It's common to run twin 3037's on the Rb26 for 800hp applications, so I think a single would be a bit breathless.

Steve,

Finished the engine build, and it's incredibly strong, pulls from way low down and is much more driveable than it ever was. It's got a really relaxing delivery, with a stupidly wide power band.

But then I took it back off the road, to fit larger injectors, a proper fuel system, and practically all of the Earls hose and fittings catalogue. It's got the 'show' and all it needs now is a proper tuning session to complete the 'go'.

I'll post details when it's all together, shouldn't be much longer now.

Oh Steve - stocking it hey..... Bummer.

All that time and $$ you put into it - I feel for you buddy - Must have been a hard decision.

I've been thinking the same - or at least selling the car complete and moving to the next project - But then I think of all the dam $$ i have spent on it and just can't bring myself to do it...........

Good luck with it man.

Steve the turbo you used was a normal HKS GT3037 with a .87AR exhaust housing ? Does this mean the manifold and exhaust housing have the T28 flange ?

I was wondering about trying one of these (Garrett version same wheels) with a 1.06 housing on my RB26/31 . Most people are saying the GT37 compressor won't keep up with three litres so go a GT35R . Whats your opinion ?

Cheers  A .

Hmm, well it was the 3037S 56T, yes it was GT25 flange.

Doubt it would be breathless - with a 3L bottom end, you could easily achieve 350rwkw (veilside has had 700rwkw with two 3037s on a 2.7L rb26).

Combined with the 3L torque, it would be quite formidable as a street package. Hell, I had 321rwkw, not in shoot out mode on a 31deg C day with dyno dynamics dyno. I had to spend alot of money to get traction, and even then managed to light up the rears at 100kph without any problems at all. If you want early power, use the 0.87 housing, if you want a bit more sanity, larger would be better:)

I wouldnt recommend garret, I have seen a few GT30s (garret) that start boosting hard around the same place mine did, but with a 0.63 housing - compared to my 0.87. HKS turbos come in early, and dont really run out of breath from what I have seen - as long as you dont run the boost out of the efficiency range. If you think that some local company can produce a turbo that does as well as a HKS - good luck.

Here comes the old 'garret is as good as HKS' debate, but imo, you are fooling yourself if you think so. dont scrimp on a turbo, it is the heart of a turbocharged car.

JasonO, good to here, hurry up:)

B-man, yeah it was a bit painful, but there was no way I was going to sell it to someone at a fraction of the worth - and I got more money this way. the worst part was it was setup just nice, handled really well and was an absolute pleasure to drive, peak hour or on open roads. I miss it already:( dont think I will ever own a better car.

  • 2 months later...
I know of a rb25 making approx 320rwkw with standard internals. How ever, i have only seen s2 motors make over 280rwkw on standard internals and hold up

It wasn't really a standard RB25. Sure it had stock internals but it did have a lower comp ratio (thicker headgasket) and also had a lower dynamic comp ratio as he was running larger cams.

All of which help to aid off the nasty detonation that kills the Rb25's cast pistons.

I don't think it was even really driven that much. :(

I know of a rb25 making approx 320rwkw with standard internals. How ever, i have only seen s2 motors make over 280rwkw on standard internals and hold up

So is there much of a difference between Series 1 RB25s & Series 2 RB25s.... I've got a 1995 r33 Series 1.5, which engine does that have...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...