Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys.I currently have a turbosmart boost T ,one of the latest type with the ball and spring and was just wondering if a turbotech would be any better? I will be getting a retune soon with bigger injectors and z32 afm to go with my current turbo which is a apexi ax53b70p25.The common trend with these internal wastegate turbos is that they tend to drop a few pounds of boost towards redline. Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348562-turbotech-vs-turbosmart/
Share on other sites

there is a thread on here some where thats like 70 hundred pages long about the turbotech boost controller being the best so i brought one in short it was shit. i now have a turbosmart T and think it is heaps better.

I had a better boost curve running the Turbosmart than the blitz ebc I upgraded to, although the ebc does ramp on the boost a little quicker.

Either of these cheap manual regulator style controllers should do the job perfectly. If your boost curve still drops off it wont be the controller, more likely you would need a stronger wastegate actuator.

+1 to turbotech!

Had a GFB bleed installed set to 12psi,

then switched to a turbotech (just to test) and the car hit 12psi so much quicker then the GFB, ditched the GFB immediately.

turbotech will be my only manual bleed valve choice, other then that, EBC it is :)

Thanks for the replies guys. I think i will look into getting a stronger actuator to suit my turbo.Does anybody know if a hks or garrett actuator will fit my apexi turbo?The actuator on it is apparently a 12psi.Cheers.

Buy an EBC. The cheapness of skyline owners never ceases to amaze me. It is scrooge season though I suppose.

So do you believe an EBC will stop my boost dropping at high Rpm,cause if so that is all i'm looking for?

A decent electronic boost controller is always going to be better then a bleed valve if set up right.

Just Jap have the Blitz Dual SBC Spec R boost conrollers going for $599. Its not cheap but you will get great results....

here is my boost graph its holding 22psi with a 15psi actuator.

post-32514-0-25374400-1293926323_thumb.jpg

A decent electronic boost controller is always going to be better then a bleed valve if set up right.

Just Jap have the Blitz Dual SBC Spec R boost conrollers going for $599. Its not cheap but you will get great results....

here is my boost graph its holding 22psi with a 15psi actuator.

post-32514-0-25374400-1293926323_thumb.jpg

The actuator is doing most of the work in your setup, try that with a 7psi spring. I have the same Blitz unit, it wont hold boost any better than the Turbosmart as my actuator is blowing open.

The Turbosmart and Turbotech ones are not bleed valves, they are regulators that are run in line, just like an ebc. They are great if hooked up correctly, not just for tight arses.

and a turbotech is not a bleed valve. it's a ball and spring type that blocks the pressure to the actuator until desired boost is reached, at which point the pressure is passed through.

very simple. very effective. very cheap.

but it only holds one boost level throughout the rpm range, and isnt configurable in any other parameters, obviously.

so depending what you need. ebc may be better, or may be a waste of money.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update for the sake of closure   Ended up getting the intercooler piping all sorted, new plugs and yellow jacket coils, and she was idling mint until it warmed up while I was bleeding the cooling system. Found the misfire to be localised to cyl 3 by unplugging coilpacks, ran a compression test, that checked out, then decided to get a mate to check if that spark plug was firing out of the motor. Upon cranking it over, with the injectors disconnected, the car actually fired and ran on a couple cylinders and heaps of fuel came out the top of cyl 3 I'd say that injector's either spraying incorrectly or spraying far too much, which is fine as I'm planning on replacing them anyway I'm planning on making about 250kW on flex fuel, and have a set of 1000cc injectors from ozautosport, obviously overkill but I'm planning on building the motor and running more boost further down the line, do you reckon they'd be too big for a smooth idle on 98? Thanks for the replies gents, much appreciated
    • I'm confused. You said you want to "remove the clear coat from most panels" but it sounds like you are actually doing a full respray? Few random things to add -  If you chase the blistered paint with 120 grit, I can almost guarantee you'll chase it down to bare metal (that's fine). But if you paint the car from here, you'll have nice little indents where ever the blistered paint was. The new paint won't magically level out the low areas, you need to fill them. Which leads me to the main point I wanted to add, make sure the whole car is flat before you paint it. All those areas with blistered paint you sanded out, make sure to fill them and triple check they are flat with a block guide coat. I'd also check the whole car is flat with a large block and guide coat but yeah up to you if you want to go that far.   
    • 300hp (225kw) is barely outside the standard turbo's range with a bit of extra boost in it (200ish). If you are going to change the turbo you should aim for 250-300kw (330-400hp) to make the expense worthwhile
    • A couple of things, firstly omg that turbo is expensive! $3,000 USD for dinosaur technology is robbery. You could buy a G series turbo and have a good amount of change instead.  If you want a good budget option, have a look here - https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/ If you are keen to spend more, have look at the modern turbos, Garrett G series, Borgwarner EFR, etc. Have a look at the RB25 dyno results thread for inspiration.  If you upgrade your turbo to something that will support the 300hp you want and only "probably" have Haltech ECU, your car will only "probably" run. Actually, no it won't run. You are going to need the ECU and injectors at the time you do the turbo upgrade.  No thoughts on "this much boost" as you didn't say how much boost that actually is. Having said that, plenty of unopened RB25's making even more power then what you are chasing.   
×
×
  • Create New...