Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello there,

My clutch release bearing is a bit noisy, so I want to replace it.

While at it I thought it might be a good idea to replace the whole clutch anyhow.

Could somebody recommend a brand/make/model?

The car is not heavily tuned, making about 310HP.

My secret aim is the 400HP mark, so ideally the clutch should be able to cope with that.

Also, the clutch should be easy to moderate to operate, so heavy clutch operation would not be preferred.

(the car is also a grocery getter :))

Is Excedy any good?

Thanks in advance,

Andrew

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348594-r33gtsts2-what-clutch/
Share on other sites

The clutch that is best for you depends on what you are going to use the car for, not so much how much power you are making. Drag racing/Drifting and you should choose a carbotic button clutch. If you are just using it for street use then you will need something NPC's Bigmouth street clutch which will easily hold 400hp at the wheels but it's an organic plate so not as good for the drag launches. Circuit racing you can choose either. A HD Exedy will hold it for a month or so but they are not so good over 240rwkw. If you want an off the shelf clutch from Exedy that will hold 400hp then it will have to be at least the 5 puk ceramic button clutch. Exedy are the largest manufacturer of clutches in the world, so yes, they are good quality

  • Like 1

I got an excedy HD and 240kw seems to be holding up fine so far,(daily car also cops some abuse) feels firm but not to heavy.

On another note my release bearing started making those noises one time, for the couple of weeks it was doin it i stressed thinking $$$, then it fixed itself and i never had a problem again..Sometimes you just get lucky.. :thumbsup: GL

Hello,

Thanks for the input.

As said, the car is not used often on a track or something.

Once or twice a month it will do a quarter mile - maybe some track ..

What other clutch manufacturers are out there?

This looks interesting:

http://www.ogura-racing.com/light_clutch.html

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, I'm trying to make this thread basically the thread with all the answers to common questions regarding specifically the RB20 DE NEO + T engine, that comes in the R34. Answers will and only should be provided by those who have done this conversion or actually have some relevant real life experience please. Please feel free to ask questions in the comments if you have any so other members can answer. I feel like this thread is really needed, especially with more Americans buying (unknowingly going to regret it too) rb20 neo r34s. My first question being - What do you guys use for tuning? I have purchased a haltech elite 2500 Plug and play kit for the rb25det NEO because the ecu plug is the same, but I am unsure if any of the pins would need to be repined to match. Second question that I see asked very often - After this conversion, did you install the boost solenoid/ actuator? I see many people doing a + T setup on their rb20 NEOs while running stock RB25DET NEO ECUs with no tune. I am wondering how they are going about doing that and consistently abusing the car because many of these people have had these untuned setups running for a very long time. That was my original plan, but my engine cuts out at 5 psi of boost using the stock ecu with no tune and no boost solenoid/actuator.
    • interesting. ive read and heard otherwise over the past year. ive been doing this +t conversion on a rb20 neo using all oem rb25det neo parts including the ECU, and im having engine cut out issues when I hit around 5 psi of boost. Everywhere/everyone ive asked has told me its because I never wired in a boost solenoid/actuator to the ecu, so the ecu isn't getting the right signal once it hits 5 psi of boost, causing the engine to get shut off.
    • Mate, I take this thread in random directions on occasion myself, so no foul I'm a old fan of MCM anyway, I like their banter, and enjoy most of the stuff they do
    • Something strange is happening. I didn't touch the car since we last spoke on the forums. Yesterday was the first day of good weather, so i took it out for about 2 hours. It started up on first crank every time about 5 times total. I literally didn't do anything to do the car.  
    • I purchased this one. Very well priced and works great. I was rough with it to see if it will last and had no issues.  Teslong Two-Way Articulating Borescope with Light, Industrial Endoscope Inspection Camera with Articulated Probe, Flexible Mechanic Fiber Optic Snake Scope Cam for Wall Automotive Engine Inspect-5FT : Amazon.ca: Industrial & Scientific
×
×
  • Create New...