Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ABS has saved me loads of times on the street esp in the wet.

Really good safety feature when breaking as they dont lock up your brakes which can make your car skid out of control and crash.

Instead of locking up they gradually grab and release the disc brakes.

i said motorkhana not drift.... it can involve lots of hard breaking depending on course layout, not just to get the car sideways

i'm still yet to see how ABS would be a disavantage in a motorkhana. outright braking power will still be the same, and you get the advantage of still being able to steer while braking hard without the fear of locking up. up until the point of having a wheel locking up ABS is the same as non-ABS (you can still modulate the braking to be on the point of locking up and not actually have the ABS engage), but once you do lock up then the ABS is better.

i'm still yet to see how ABS would be a disavantage in a motorkhana. outright braking power will still be the same, and you get the advantage of still being able to steer while braking hard without the fear of locking up. up until the point of having a wheel locking up ABS is the same as non-ABS (you can still modulate the braking to be on the point of locking up and not actually have the ABS engage), but once you do lock up then the ABS is better.

good driver will outbrake ABS.

Of course a good driver will out brake ABS, I've seen it many times myself - but can you say that in every situation?

Unless you are epically well trained, you will jump on the anchors if say, a roo, jumped out in front of ya :)

And even with ABS on, if yuo out-brake it, then sweet. If not, then it's there to lend a hand

If all the conditions are perfect, you're prepared for it and you hit the brakes just strong enough not to lock up then yeah you can beat ABS easy. But as soon as you "slam" on the brakes in a moment of adrenaline, you're f**ked. ABS wins every time in that 'panic' situation because it gives you the option of steering.

I've never seen how ABS can be bad given it waits until a wheel breaks traction before it engages...ABS either kicks in or you're in a slide...

No flatspots on my tyres after DECA...!!!

i have raced both my R31 (no ABS) and my girlfriends R34 (ABS) on the same same and both had the exact same brakes r32 GTR drilled/slotted and R33 4 piston calipers.

there was a noticable difference between the two. The 31 felt like you could break harder before it would lock up a wheel although when it locked up you couldnt turn. The 34 seemed to lockup a little more, but it wasnt as noticable as such because you could still continue 'driving' on turn in.

my experience is for drifting ABS is not going to make a difference at all.

ABS is generally not preferable in a racecar situation, because racecars get into situations not common to road cars, and any decent driver should not need ABS anyway. One easy example is a spin where you want to lock the wheels up, I've head of times when people with ABS equipped cars have lost all braking power because the ABS system was overwhelmed.

There's a reason why the Porsche GT3RS and Noble M600 don't come with ABS.

I cannot do J turns with ABS pluged in in my 33, I may just be crap but my old MR2 (AW11 non ABS) loved them.

And I like the felling of gassing it to the entry of a corner and then mashing the brakes without fear of my crapness flat spoting my $500 tyres which acording to my budget must last 1 year.

ABS is generally not preferable in a racecar situation, because racecars get into situations not common to road cars, and any decent driver should not need ABS anyway. One easy example is a spin where you want to lock the wheels up, I've head of times when people with ABS equipped cars have lost all braking power because the ABS system was overwhelmed.

There's a reason why the Porsche GT3RS and Noble M600 don't come with ABS.

this

Of course a good driver will out brake ABS, I've seen it many times myself - but can you say that in every situation?

Unless you are epically well trained, you will jump on the anchors if say, a roo, jumped out in front of ya :)

And even with ABS on, if yuo out-brake it, then sweet. If not, then it's there to lend a hand

and are epically calm. i've done driver training courses, etc that teach you about brake modulation, etc, but i've had animals and people run out in front of me and i can tell you that all of that goes out the window. you instinctively stomp on the brake pedal as hard as you can, and the closer you get the harder you push the pedal, regardless of whether the wheels are locked up or not. the reasoning your brain isn't consulted in these circumstances. it's all well and good to say about braking distances of a good driver in a non ABS car to an average driver with ABS, but that is in a controlled environment when they know they are going to have to brake suddenly. in an emergency situation that comparison doesn't work.

ABS is generally not preferable in a racecar situation, because racecars get into situations not common to road cars, and any decent driver should not need ABS anyway. One easy example is a spin where you want to lock the wheels up, I've head of times when people with ABS equipped cars have lost all braking power because the ABS system was overwhelmed.

There's a reason why the Porsche GT3RS and Noble M600 don't come with ABS.

porsche carrera cup cars use a version of ABS.

as for the ABS being overwhelmed, a lot of people do the wrong thing when braking with ABS once it has kicked in. you will get people who feel the feedback through the pedal so they start lifting off and reapplying the brakes or pumping the brakes. this is the totally wrong thing to do. you are actually better off just keeping your foot buried into the pedal and letting it sort itself out rather the confusing it by altering brake pressure. also i think you may find that some of the braking failures may have been caused by either boiled brake fluid or the brakes overheating and glazing up, and if you get warped rotors and add that to the mix with ABS then you are in for all sorts of dramas.

Unless you are epically well trained, you will jump on the anchors if say, a roo, jumped out in front of ya :)

yeah but how often does a roo jump out in front of you when your 'drifting or having fun with the car' *thread title*

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes correct. Also, I'd avoid applying it to soft paint (however I doubt you'll ever have to deal with it in practice). So any paint that hasn't fully hardened, could be a 1k paint that never fully hardened or it could be a 2k paint that was laid down thick and hasn't yet fully hardened. 
    • Bit of an update to this one. Having some issues on the dyno that held us back (boost spiking) and I want to pass some info over you guys and see what you think is wrong with my setup. The current readout on this dyno is 462rwkw on a low reading dyno so keep in mind it is a real world 500rwkw setup on a hub dyno. Don't read into the power figure too much as a sign of the issue. The short and curly of it is: 2.8 Litre Racepace build RB25 NEO N/A Head with VCT (internally standard however ) Borgwarner EFR 8474  Turbosmart 50mm Straight Gate + Mac valve 6Boost Manifold 4" dump to full 4" exhaust (nil restrictions) Wastegate plumbed back in and all angles in the exhaust system are acceptable and not too sharp. GFB SV52 BOV in cooler piping  Turbosmart BOV in EFR Housing   The issue we are having is it comes onto full boost for example at 4000rpm and spikes to 24/25psi, before dropping down to 17psi before slowly rising back up to the target boost of 23psi. It was extremely uncontrollable and the tuner actually had to ramp in boost progrssively with each 1000rpm on each boost setting we selected to try and reduce the amount of spiking. Sometimes we would see a drop of 10psi from the peak at the beginning of the run, to the low, until it took the next 500-1000rpm to stabilise back up to the target boost. The tuner is pretty confident that the straight gate is just a poorly designed product and leaks too much boost upon cracking the gate open and theres no way to fix it other than going to a poppet valve. He's also confient theres no ignition breakdown or floating valves. The fueling is extremely stable as well. Turbo speed is somewhere around the 109,000rpm area. The spanner in the works for me is that prior to this Borgwarner and StraightGate, the car was tuned on -5 twins at a diferent tuner, and he also had issues controlling the boost with it spiking around the same rpm range, so to me this sounds like the same issue and it can't be anything on the turbo side as this was all changed and I think the behaviour is extremely similar, if not the same. We also removed the mac valve and did a run on wastegate pressure and it still spiked and had the same behaviour. My thoughts on possibilities are: Boost Leak VCT Cam Gear isn't reliably activating consistently - (On this however, we did a run with the VCT disabled and the boost still spiked) Turbosmart BOV is not handling the boost? However this seems unlikely to not be able to handle 20psi. I have a couple of logs that I can't make sense of if anybody knows how to read them and can obtain further logs of other parameters if they are not enough, happy to pay for anyones time. The dyno readout with the power figure is the most recent last week. The other picture is from two weeks prior to that where we couldn't break 400kw (we removed the cat), however the issue of the boost control persisted. @Lithium @Piggaz @burn4005 @GTSBoy @discopotato03 I've tagged those that were quite active in recent pages here, no disrespect to those that know turbos well but I missed tagging. Cheers 
    • I recently purchased a 2018 Infiniti Q60, which has an SD card navigation map. I can see my system has options for real time traffic updates etc, and am wondering if there is something I can purchase to get this working? I can see there are at least updated maps for USA and Canada, but nothing for Australia. Surely Infiniti took changing road systems and city expansions into account when they decided to use an inbuilt navigation over Android Auto/Apple Car Play, or are we doomed to drive on streets that don't exist in the navigation system if you drive to a new area?
    • Luckily I didn't put in etch primer as I just found out it's not compatible with my body filler lol. Also just need to sand the panel anywhere between 150-400 grit so I'm in the clear there. It does say to not apply to soft old paint, I assume that means paint that is flaking, peeling,etc
×
×
  • Create New...