Jump to content
SAU Community

What Have You Done To Your Stagea Lately?


Hanso

Recommended Posts

your top speed must be awesome in that thing!!!! :P

Good figure bud....well done!.....I still would have thought you would crack the 300AWKW's though!....what PSI?

sorry i was wrong it was 285kw at the wheels lol

yeh it will crack much more, it was only tuned on ethanol because of the boost problem. -which is not so much of a problem anymore.

its pretty much tuned in 98, but on e85 for safety.

its at 20psi as the wastegate hole is a wee bit too small lol

feels f**king insane

look at the dyno results topic

Link to comment
Share on other sites

sorry i was wrong it was 285kw at the wheels lol

yeh it will crack much more, it was only tuned on ethanol because of the boost problem. -which is not so much of a problem anymore.

its pretty much tuned in 98, but on e85 for safety.

its at 20psi as the wastegate hole is a wee bit too small lol

feels f**king insane

look at the dyno results topic

Was the only difference between tunes your exhaust?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Installed a New Greddy ProfecB spec2 boost controller today with Craig's help.. :)

Will be interesting to see how this feels over the next few days but feels good so far.

post-41854-0-02983600-1300622266_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's a neat install guys. I'm impressed. I didn't realise the unit was that small. No probs with fitting it in there at all by the looks.

A little bit of chopping on the cradles for the ETC reader to sit it in and mounted the solenoid in the battery box so very stealth.

Also had to make a small hole in the glove box cover to stop the dial hitting the lid. Turns out there is more room if you mount it a little higher.. lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A little bit of chopping on the cradles for the ETC reader to sit it in and mounted the solenoid in the battery box so very stealth.

Also had to make a small hole in the glove box cover to stop the dial hitting the lid. Turns out there is more room if you mount it a little higher.. lol

Solenoid in battery box. I must remember that - thanks, I like it!

Yes, the inside shape of that compartment varies considerably in profile.

What did you use to cut out the shape?

Edited by Commsman
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Solenoid in battery box. I must remember that - thanks, I like it!

Yes, the inside shape of that compartment varies considerably in profile.

What did you use to cut out the shape?

I just measured the shape and cut by hand with a drill and scalpel. A bit of evening whittling. lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Where did you get the Greddy Profec from and how much did you pay? (if I may ask)

cost was about $280 from Japan... if you are interested I can see if they have more?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ProfecB2 is a nice little unit, some people hate them

Not to get too offtopic, but any idea why they hate them? Id be looking at going the Profec B II route

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not to get too offtopic, but any idea why they hate them? Id be looking at going the Profec B II route

people feel that they're fiddly things, when adjusting gains and etc.

but everything that comes out of japan is fiddly. lol people should deal with it.

Yeah mostly I think it is people not reading the manual and/or taking the time to set them up properly. It's not quite as simple as "I WANT 20psi, K.. GO!"

Also, some think they can't handle huge boost and prefer to go for the Blitz dual solenoid units. The theory there is that the dual solenoids can handle fast ramping, huge boost setups better.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Much less twat-tastic. CF wheels are too garish for civilised use.
    • From there, as the manual says....assembly is the reverse of disassembly, no tricks worth mentioning Much better (for me)
    • In my case, the standard wheel I had was in good condition but the buttons had more wear, so I swapped them across from the original wheel from the car. The plastic rear cover is held on by 4 tabs, and once the wiring is removed you can get access to 2 screws on each side the hold the buttons in From there I just swapped the wiring over. What was interesting is the standard style wheel is 2.0kg but the carbon fibre one is 50% heavier at 2.9kg. It even has a weight inside the wheel at the top to make up for some sort of imbalance in the design. weird
    • Once the airbag is off, to remove the steering wheel.... Undo the 2 plugs into the clock spring, and the horn connector from it's clip. Hit the 19mm nut with a rattle gun (preferably) or if you don't' have one, you probably want an assistant to hold the wheel in place while you use a breaker bar to undo the nut Then, screw the nut back on 3 turns, and pull the wheel sharply towards you. If that doesn't work hit it medium force with a rubber mallet on either side, or possible behind if you can get there. If that all fails (it shouldn't!) you might need a steering wheel puller
    • So, to next task....the carbon fibre steering wheel was either an expensive factory option or a chinesium special. Either way, I don't like either the flat bottom or thick ring style, so it had to go So...to remove the steering wheel.... First, disconnect battery negative and stomp on the brake pedal for a few seconds. Then, remove the small circular covers on each side of the wheel's rear surround to uncover the airbag clips. You need to push something like a flat bladed screw driver through, to push the steel clip inwards and pull the side of the airbag forward. Once you've done the easy side, same on the centre console side. You can see the tab you are shooting for circled in red Then, disconnect the horn spade connector and for the yellow airbag plug you need to get something small under the black locking tab to pop it out, then the connector releases......airbag is off  
×
×
  • Create New...