Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

did you increase boost when you did the tune?? the boost could push the BOV open and assist with venting the air through the valve

could be right. mine was at 17psi tuned i think previous to my boost issue. and wasnt doing it..

gave it a spray with WD40 and this improved the opening of the BOV and reduced the noise.. :)

well i know what im doing tonight :)

as iaiana said, by how much.. perhaps another sound clip?

going over the stagea getting it in "ok" condition for mondays track day. my track car wont be back from the tuner in time so have to track the stag for the final time.

found my front rhs driveshaft is leaking a right royal mess. changed out the filters, re-bleeding brakes atm with some quality brake fluid.

i now have a working horn!

and i changed my parkers and rear numberplate lights and interior lights to LED. interior ones arent as bright as id like. i might get some ebay ones as jaycar didnt have the best range

I changed my exhaust today from the Raizer muffler that came on the car to a Fujitsubo Legalis Cat back system that I picked up on Ebay for $600.....

OMG!!! The performance difference is MASSIVE.

So.......I had a look inside the old muffler.........do you think this might have been restricting flow a little ?

88f51aa0.jpg

e867c753.jpg

10172da0.jpg

Was driving down to Canberra on Friday with my trailer in tow and had to make a road side stop to remove the Grub screw from the BOV. It made the car damn near un-drivable with grub screw in. Car was staggering and shuddering every time I lifted the slightest bit off the throttle.

Will be doing some more work on Wednesday on the BOV with some silicon spray that I hope will improve the performance of the BOV.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But I think you missed mine.. there is also nothing about the 98 spec that supports your claim..  according to the fuel standards, it can be identical to 95, just very slightly higher octane number. But the ulp vs pulp fuel regulations go show 95 (or 98), is not just 91 with some additives. any claim of ‘refined by the better refineries’ or ‘higher quality fuel’ is just hearsay.  I have never seen anything to back up such claims other than ‘my mate used to work for a fuel station’, or ‘drove a fuel delivery truck’, or ‘my mechanic says’.. the actual energy densities do slightly vary between the 3 grades of fuel, but the difference is very minor. That said, I am very happy to be proven wrong if anyone has some hard evidence..
    • Hey guys I’m chasing a Rb20det complete or bare block need a good running engine as mine has low comp 
    • You're making my point for me. 95 is not "premium". It is a "slightly higher octane" version of the basic 91 product. The premium product that they want people to buy (for all the venal corporate reasons of making more profit, and all the possibly specious reasons of it being a "better" fuel with nicer additive packages) is the 98 octane stuff. 95 is the classic middle child. No-one wants it. No-one cares about it. It is just there, occupying a space in the product hierarchy.
    • 98 and 95 have to meet the same national fuel standards beside the actual RON.  91 has lower standards (which are quite poor really), so 95 is certainly not 91 with some octane booster. It would be an easier argument to claim 98 is just 95 with some octane boosters. Also RON doesn't specify 'quality' in any sense, only the octane number.  Anything different retailers decide or not decide to add to their 95 or 98 is arbitrary and not defined by the RON figure.
    • Anyone know alternatives to powerplus tungsten? Can't find an alternative online. 
×
×
  • Create New...