Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah cheers guys, I know about the chasis rail idea and I'm staying clear of it. In my trade I've seen tons of jobs stuffed up due to people using incorrect tools or methods.

I've heard of a way you can get access to the ring gear to stop the engine turning over, I'll slide under tomorrow and have a look. My other option is I have access to an impact bar, sort of like a breaker bar but you hit the end of it with a hammer, should get in there easy with that. I dont really want to have to go pick it up so I'll look into ring gear access first lol.

A manual is so much easier. Put it in gear and foot on brake. Damn auto!

mate i am with you dont risk it do it with the punch bar put it on the bolt hit with hammer done safe. You could also if you have the standard radator take it out have it core flushed cost me cheap while out do the timing belt makes it so much easier.

mate i am with you dont risk it do it with the punch bar put it on the bolt hit with hammer done safe. You could also if you have the standard radator take it out have it core flushed cost me cheap while out do the timing belt makes it so much easier.

Yeah done, went and got my 1/2" impact bar from work today and had it off in no time. I had the coolant system flushed out about a year ago so I'm not to worried about it. I wasn't keen on removing the radiator because I didn't want to deal with the auto fluid lines going into it.

I managed to lift the radiator up enough to see if the rattle gun would fit. No good, the AC coil is still in the way.

Got my alarm fitted on the weekend, picked it up Monday. Took longer than expected, but it's working now, ah well.

Surprised to find the mirror covers with LED indicators were scotch locked in. Got disturbed during install and disconnected my LH indicators >_< Installer found it though so it's all good.

I'm thinking the best way to do alarms and immobilisers in these things is to replace all the scotch locks and dodgy wiring on the factory unit then install an aftermarket Australian standard one. This is how GT Autosound do it and this way you get to keep cool stuff like your mirrors dipping and folding in, and the interior light turning on when you unlock the car.

Pretty happy with the end result though, even if it is a bit more simple.

My Freeway Dolphin strut brace has arrived at work, but I'm holed up at home for a couple of days. Might have to swing past and pick it up tomorrow, then work out if I have room for a plenum spacer and the strut brace, or choose between the two.

Next mod almost definitely a set of BCs. Can't stand the ride as it is now. Rotors, intercooler and spot lights are also high on the priority list.

Nah Craig told me to ditch it ages ago, as it traps too much heat apparently.

I'll let everyone know once it's on. I'm hoping room for the plenum spacer and strut brace. Fingers crossed!

I don't care about the engine cover...just wanna know if I can run the brace....

Oh and the dents I mentioned in an earlier post:

Do you think I should get it fixed before going to get a retune this Sat, or is not much of an issue?

post-75595-0-77913000-1309939114_thumb.jpg

post-75595-0-14226000-1309939124_thumb.jpg

post-75595-0-98520100-1309939138_thumb.jpg

no it will be installed in my new engine. i pretty sure with the spacer on, you cant have the engine cover AND the strut brace. but 19mm shouldnt foul the brace i rekon

i think its time for scott to make a custom one lol

I don't care about the engine cover...just wanna know if I can run the brace....

Oh and the dents I mentioned in an earlier post:

Do you think I should get it fixed before going to get a retune this Sat, or is not much of an issue?

OUCH!! i think youll be ok mate, go for the tune

Ok so I fitted the strut brace, and because Im a clumsy dick I made it take much longer than it needed too, as i kept dropping the 12 mm nuts from the strut tops...

So Ive lost one nut... Would I be right to drive it for a day while I get a replacement?

Or is there a less important 12mm nut somewhere on the car I can steal temporarily?

Only can find 14mm nut. Not sure how many they have. If it has 3 and your missing one it will be fine but if it only has 2 and missing one I would carefully head straight to Japanese import spares and grab the correct 12mm nut from a skyline.

Edited by slippylotion

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Very decent bit of kit. Definitely black it out I reckon.  
    • Because people who want that are buying euros. The people with the money to buy the aftermarket heads and blocks aren’t interested in efficiency or making -7 power, they’re making well over 1,000hp and pretty much only drive them at full throttle  best way to way make money is know your customer base and what they want and don’t spend money making things they don’t want. 
    • It's not, but it does feel like a bit of a missed opportunity regardless. For example, what if the cylinder head was redesigned to fit a GDI fuel system? It's worth like two full points of compression ratio when looking at modern GDI turbo vs PFI turbo. I'm pretty reliably surprised at how much less turbo it takes to make similar power out of a modern engine vs something like an RB26. Something with roughly the same dimensions as a -7 on an S55 is making absolutely silly power numbers compared to an RB26. I know there's a ton of power loss from things like high tension rings, high viscosity oil, clutch fan, AWD standby loss, etc but it's something like 700 whp in an F80 M3 vs 400 whp in an R33 GTR. The stock TF035HL4W turbos in an F80 M3 are really rather dinky little things and that's enough to get 400 whp at 18 psi. This just seems unwise no? I thought the general approach is if you aren't knock limited the MFB50 should be held constant through the RPM range. So more timing with RPM, but less timing with more cylinder filling. A VE-based table should accordingly inverse the VE curve of the engine.
    • I've seen tunes from big name workshops with cars making in excess of 700kW and one thing that stood out to me, is that noone is bothering with torque management. Everyone is throwing in as much timing as the motor can take for a pull. Sure that yields pretty numbers on a dyno, but it's not keeping these motors together for more than a few squirts down the straight without blowing coolant or head gaskets. If tuners, paid a bit more attention and took timing out in the mid range, managed boost a bit better, you'll probably see less motors grenading. Not to name names, or anything like that, but I've seen a tune, from a pretty wild GT-R from a big name tuner and I was but perplexed on the amount of timing jammed into it. You would have expected a quite a bit less timing at peak torque versus near the limiter, but there was literally 3 degrees of difference. Sure you want to make as much as possible throughout the RPM range, but why? At the expense of blowing motors? Anyhow I think we've gone off topic enough once again lol.
    • Because that’s not what any of them are building these heads or blocks for. It’s to hold over over 1000hp at the wheels without breaking and none of that stuff is required to make power 
×
×
  • Create New...