Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

got my remsa pads on my desk (apparently between the qfm hpx and ar1m but still low rotor wear and dust)

i really want to put them in tmrw but i also want to machine the front rotors :(

really wishing i was either in qld (my mate has lathes and stuff) or had a big lathe in my garage

I have a lathe the disks fit onto Tom but I could never hold them in the chuck well enough to face them properly, they need to be bolted/clamped in. My local bloke machines disks for $20 each anyway so I don't bother.

I have a set of Brembo's I am rebuilding at the moment, new seals etc. When he machined the Brembo disks he had to change to a carbide cutter as they were so hard. Pita for him apparently.

Another frustrating week of waiting for my Aero kit to be painted.rant.gif

Dropped in on Thursday; to see the bars in primer, looking slick as, waiting for paint!woot.gif

Hopefully they'll be on by the weekend!

The bolts that mount the sides of the rear bar (top edge) are these accessed from the boot? What trim do I need to remove to access them?

Thanks in advance.wave.gif

I have a lathe the disks fit onto Tom but I could never hold them in the chuck well enough to face them properly, they need to be bolted/clamped in. My local bloke machines disks for $20 each anyway so I don't bother.

I have a set of Brembo's I am rebuilding at the moment, new seals etc. When he machined the Brembo disks he had to change to a carbide cutter as they were so hard. Pita for him apparently.

yeah i think jap rotors > australian rotors

we did a pair of 31 rear rotors at my mates workshop over summer and they went well (any the calliper had locked on so the surface was blue = hard) and it took the surface off well, it just takes a long time to set them up and make sure they are true plus most lathes won't reach and do both sides without flipping the rotor around

so if you have to pay someone to run them on a regular lathe = exxy because its time consuming, but if you free lathing (like i do at uni banana.gif) then its kinda worth it

The bolts that mount the sides of the rear bar (top edge) are these accessed from the boot? What trim do I need to remove to access them?

yes

just the inside trim each side. dont lose any of the nuts, i dont have 100s of them spare lol

yes

just the inside trim each side. dont lose any of the nuts, i dont have 100s of them spare lol

Thanks Iain :thumbsup: Man, I need to tee up with you to pick up that arm too; totally forgot about it! You about one night this week?

Cheers, Dale.

took off the stock airbox apart, washed and cleaned the top front part (lots of dirt and gunk in there for some reason), took off part of the resonator (broke a couple of clips in the process pinch.gif), took the car out and the engine sounds louder, but wanted a bit more loud, any suggestions other than changing to pod filter?

if your wanting abit more loud without tuning, i wouldnt do this.

you would need an eManage as you'll be hitting airflow cut quite often

agree with aaron...not planning to get any piggyback ecu or anything, just want a cheap way to make the intake sound louder without using pod filter...

what about the part underneath the panel filter? can i block it somehow?

If you want more noise you can leave the top off the airbox - down side is warmer intake temps. Your choice - more noise or better performance. If you block off the bottom of the airbox the car probably won't go at all.

Hey Chris whats wheels are they? Mate of mine asked and I assumed XD9's at quick glance but they are indeed different, not to mention they don't make XD9's in 19"...

They are a CE28 copy by a company called Varrstoen.

:)

They are a CE28 copy by a company called Varrstoen.

:)

CE28! I forgot about them. Are they quality copies? I've been living in a carless world in the mountains of Canada for the last year and a bit - amazing how much has changed in the mean time lol.

CE28! I forgot about them. Are they quality copies? I've been living in a carless world in the mountains of Canada for the last year and a bit - amazing how much has changed in the mean time lol.

Varrstoen probably make one of the nicest copies going around... They actually make wheels is good size/width and offsets unlike most Chinese wheels which haven't much selection at all.

Mike

Yeah I was keen on WedsSport SA-67R's for my M35 until I realised that I'd either be cramming a 10" wheel onto my car or run a 9" wheel with spacers. I know Lense Corse do the LC818 but getting the right size is proving tricky (everyone wants to sell a staggered set).

Pics of the car yet?

Oh and today i took my car our to mallala for the g1 drift.

Drove half a lap to the start to get some different camera angles and went to start it and had no power left >_<

Getting your car jump started in front of a few thousand people on a race track is embarrassing... New battery this week methinks...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes...but look at the numbers. There is a tiny tiny fraction of the number of Joules available, compared to what is used/needed. Just because things are "possible" doesn't make them meaningful.
    • Thanks for taking the time to post that ! If anything changes or happens please do update us. 
    • Somehow Vertimass/Oak Ridge National Labs has figured out a catalyst that can convert ethanol into C9-C10 hydrocarbons in basically a single step without ending up with a bunch of ethylene or similar waste products: https://patents.google.com/patent/WO2023224867A1/en I still don't think anything like this will keep us from needing to transition to EVs regardless along with all kinds of other electrification, but things like this will go a long way towards alleviating the problem of how to electrify things like planes. Renewable diesel is seemingly an easier problem as well, Chevron is already running refineries for the stuff and the primary feedstock is tallow and other waste fats from agriculture.
    • Ok so I have sorted everything with my uniclutch and  i can offer up a bit of feedback and some things that might help others.    I found problems with factory damper line. Weird shit and had trouble with peddle adjustment    I used this https://au.gktech.com/products/r33-gts-t-skyline-braided-clutch-line?_pos=2&_sid=22b01b9b9&_ss=r Also when adjusting peddle leave a bit of play. You can get into a over stroke condition easy.. Make sure you can push the slave forward after adjusting to confirm fluid can return to master then you will need to pump it up heaps…..not sure why but that’s how it is.    last thing the splined adapter is machined perfectly. If your input shaft is old like mine was I would put a bit of valve grinding paste on it and stroke it like a 15 year old. Just to give it a tad more clearance and to better match it to the spline.    reason is on a near flat shift I have had situation where the peddle returns a millisecond after you lift from the clutch. No slip or anything but I reckon this is due to tolerance on the spline being way tighter than stock clutch and binding for a sec. I think this will go away but also my spline was old. Box is old so I guess I should have checked better. It’s a super neat fit.    it feels light as and holds awesome without any noise    
    • My Fuga Hybrid is JDM, 2014 model but very similar to the V37 from the looks of things..same platform just physically larger and very comfortab;e
×
×
  • Create New...