Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Pics of the car yet?

Oh and today i took my car our to mallala for the g1 drift.

Drove half a lap to the start to get some different camera angles and went to start it and had no power left pinch.gif

Getting your car jump started in front of a few thousand people on a race track is embarrassing... New battery this week methinks...

Would like to see a couple of your best pics sometime Ryan. Bugger about the shameful moment. Didn't we have this talk about your battery a few weeks back...?

Would like to see a couple of your best pics sometime Ryan. Bugger about the shameful moment. Didn't we have this talk about your battery a few weeks back...?

Yep, tested it and it was on the way out, but still in servicable life, so dads suggestion was leave it. Now Ill be changing it!

I dont really take photos, more video work. Check out www.puremotorsport.tv for that. Im still learning decent photography, use my 7D more for video and happy snaps.

Drove half a lap to the start to get some different camera angles and went to start it and had no power left >_<

Getting your car jump started in front of a few thousand people on a race track is embarrassing... New battery this week methinks...

Should of said you were just showing them the new strut brace :worship:

Yep, tested it and it was on the way out, but still in servicable life, so dads suggestion was leave it. Now Ill be changing it!

I dont really take photos, more video work. Check out www.puremotorsport.tv for that. Im still learning decent photography, use my 7D more for video and happy snaps.

Fair enough. I like to leave my battery until they give me trouble too. First sign on my car was when I shut the boot it would close completely then I'd hear the motor again & it would open back up. Maybe so you can't lock someone in the car when the battery is on the way out....?

And I've looked at some of your vids - there's some great stuff on there, but I think it's just an excuse to go to heaps of motorsport :thumbsup:

was speaking to haltech on sunday at MotorEx and they reakon they have a stand alone ecu that can run our NM35's

i forget the model but it could've been this one:

http://www.haltech.com.au/index.php/product/platinum-pro-harness-series/the-platinum-pro-harness-nissan-r35-gt-r

was speaking to haltech on sunday at MotorEx and they reakon they have a stand alone ecu that can run our NM35's

i forget the model but it could've been this one:

http://www.haltech.c...nissan-r35-gt-r

I'd be asking for a money back guarantee on that claim; speak to Jetwreck.

Not saying it can't be done obviously, but yeah; speak to Jetwreck...

Edited by Daleo

Well the R34 GTT brakes I had lined up turned out to be R33 GTST. Still an upgrade compared to stock and at the right price. R33 GTST 296 x 30mm with 4 piston calliper V's M35 296 x 24mm with single piston calliper.

Today I got some mounting bolt sleeves to fit them up.

I can organise another set or two if anyone else is interested in some R33 GTST front callipers and discs with bolt sleeves for $300 plus post for people not in Adelaide.

Edited by slippylotion

was speaking to haltech on sunday at MotorEx and they reakon they have a stand alone ecu that can run our NM35's

i forget the model but it could've been this one:

http://www.haltech.com.au/index.php/product/platinum-pro-harness-series/the-platinum-pro-harness-nissan-r35-gt-r

I spoke to haltech a month ago, they suggested a ps2000 as does my tuner but we are talking a week to setup and tune with no guarantee it can control cams etc or communicate through the can network. Perhaps I will go that way if the fcon doesn't pan out but I doubt it. Too much setup time involved but a great option if someone wants to spend the coin on r+d, (plus 2k for the unit.)

I'd be asking for a money back guarantee on that claim; speak to Jetwreck.

Not saying it can't be done obviously, but yeah; speak to Jetwreck...

what Dale said just quietly....better off with the E-manage if you are going for a piggyback setup.

PS2000 ftw imo.....the problem is the gearbox ecu in all this imo.

what Dale said just quietly....better off with the E-manage if you are going for a piggyback setup.

PS2000 ftw imo.....the problem is the gearbox ecu in all this imo.

Don't Transgo do a re-write for the RE5RO5A ecus?

http://www.transgo.com/rpg_nissan.php

Haven't looked into it yet though (or if I have, I have forgotten)

Don't Transgo do a re-write for the RE5RO5A ecus?

http://www.transgo.com/rpg_nissan.php

Haven't looked into it yet though (or if I have, I have forgotten)

What does it actually do?

Don't Transgo do a re-write for the RE5RO5A ecus?

http://www.transgo.com/rpg_nissan.php

Haven't looked into it yet though (or if I have, I have forgotten)

a reprogramming kit is a valve body upgrade.

we need the ECU to control it to adjust shift points and response time to the paddle shift etc. i found one in the states that do, or used to, support the RE5, but they never responded to my email.............

You sure you thought about that first sentence properly, Iain? Wouldn't an ECU reprogramming be the electronic side, and the valve body upgrade the mechanical side?

*Disclaimer: I don't know that much about autoboxes, but this theory fits with my understanding...

Unfortunately Nick, Iain is correct :(

Why the hell the yanks refer to it as a "reprogramming kit" is beyond me when it is basically installing stiffer springs.

Transgo_RE5RO5A_HD-2_reprogramming_instructions.pdf

Has anyone had a shift to kit fitted to an NM35? I rang MV Automatics to get one done when they service the trans and told me that there is no good shift kit available for them. The kit would cost around $700 fitted and only give around 5% increase in performance so he suggested not to do it.

Lol. I thought they knew their sh*t...

Yes. And its a requirement if you plan to bump up the power with an ecu. I cooked my auto on the dyno 2 years ago.

Just don't open up the converter whatever you do.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dort sounds above 3k rpm are dorty 🤣 I might krinkle black the alloy 🤔
    • It makes you wonder, all these people starting to make a billet replacement head, I wonder if any have thought about trying to adapt tech from newer engines into them. You're already at the full design stage to make a billet head... Why not really spice it up and had some more modern tech into the mix too...
    • Connect all the plumbing up properly. The actual worst part about having the turbo unable to actually build boost, is you can and likely would over soon the turbo if you drove the car (free rev while stationary isnt likely to manage it).   If you do have an air leak as Duncan suggested, you'll have a bad time as the AFM will be saying different to reality.   As you have had the engine out, I'd go over all electrical connections again. If you have a consult cable, plug it in, and see what the ECU thinks is going on. Did you touch the timing belt? If so, double check your timing on the gears is correct AND put a timing light on it while it's idling and see what ignition setting you have. Is the AFM you've installed the one that was in the car previously? You said you replaced seals, what seals exactly? What have you had apart?   From memory when I had my RB25DET with factory throttle, there was two plugs the TPS plug on the loom could go to. One would leave the car running like shit, the other made it work, I think one plug on the TPS area was for something else (an option). It's too many years since I saw that part of the loom to remember properly though.   Is the car idling smooth (as smooth as an RB can)? Does it smell fuelled up?   I have a feeling either timing in timing belt is off, or a sensor isn't right.
    • Theres still skid pan and motokhana days up in QLD at least that are $100 or less. The ones that are ran as "driver training" less so, they're expensive, but just normal skid pan days like SAU ran are still low cost. And thats one of the places I learned to be a lariken, purely by asking for passenger rides, and how people were doing crazy things. Reese gave me plenty of pointers back in the day for skid pan! And yes Duncan, I will never forget your pointers for track work. Especially after Neil got out saying "I am NEVER getting in the car with him again!" 😛
    • 49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
×
×
  • Create New...