Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Like a bull out of a gate!!!

Nice way to start ....1 day into having the car!!!!

.....I think I lasted 3 day's before I did a full dump back exhaust and another 2 weeks before the wheels....and the list goes on and on and on ect!.....4 years later and 2 things left to do!!!...maybewhistling.gif

I like to think of it as being organised. I ordered the wheels for it the same day I won the car at auction

I even bought the Tananbe sus before I bought the car banana.gif

ZOMG! Trabant wagon!

looks more like Scott's....being white and all!

....has a better looking grill than Aarons too....not that that would be hard!

Edited by Jetwreck

looks more like Scott's....being white and all!

....has a better looking grill than Aarons too....not that that would be hard!

so if its a better looking grill than mine, its definitely better than yours

Well, I decided I would fit the coil overs today. The stock sus was in very good condition but these Tanabe coil overs ride sooooo much nicer. Not hard at all, nearly the same as standard but just ride the bumps a little nicer. It does sit fairly low with the guards sitting level with the tyres. Looks awesome!

Ill try and post a pic over the weekend for those interested.

Well, I decided I would fit the coil overs today. The stock sus was in very good condition but these Tanabe coil overs ride sooooo much nicer. Not hard at all, nearly the same as standard but just ride the bumps a little nicer. It does sit fairly low with the guards sitting level with the tyres. Looks awesome!

Ill try and post a pic over the weekend for those interested.

would want to see pics thumbsup.gif

which tanabe coils do u have? i used to use tanabe NF springs for my civic, they lower the car but only a tad bit stiffer, there was still a bit of bodyroll until i changed to tein flex...

Washed it today.

Yesterday finished my intake, took bottom resonator out of airbox cut hole bigger for 3" piping from bumper grill.

Also brought 2 more Wolf 18x9.5s, but in +15 offset, so now will be running +30 up front and +15 rear

Is the front generally supposed to be higher or lower then the rear?

It's better to have the rear a little higher, otherwise you start to lose caster; which then promotes understeer.

Even with equal front & rear hub to guard measurements; you will still have an amount of rear rake.

It's better to have the rear a little higher, otherwise you start to lose caster; which then promotes understeer.

Even with equal front & rear hub to guard measurements; you will still have an amount of rear rake.

im not saying youre wrong, just having some input to this conversation :)

but shouldnt the rear be a little lower on a car due to the way cars corner?

Is the front generally supposed to be higher or lower then the rear?

Measuring from the sill panel, mine is 30-35mm higher at the rear than the front. Its hard to tell by eye that it has 30-35mm of rake now. IMO it sits nicely. I might adjust it slightly when the new wheels arrive, this will depend on what tyre sizes I end up using.

When I was younger and into Valiants we would run the rear lower than the front and it understeers badly.

And out of interest, how many of you guys loosen all of your suspension arms and preload the hub and then tighten it all back up when lowering a car? I always do this as it takes the twist out of bushes. If you don't do this it twist the bushes quite a lot. A lot of people don't do this and then wonder why the bushes wear out quickly.

Edited by slippylotion

(1)Measuring from the sill panel, mine is 30-35mm higher at the rear than the front. Its hard to tell by eye that it has 30-35mm of rake now. IMO it sits nicely. I might adjust it slightly when the new wheels arrive, this will depend on what tyre sizes I end up using.

When I was younger and into Valiants we would run the rear lower than the front and it understeers badly.

(2) And out of interest, how many of you guys loosen all of your suspension arms and preload the hub and then tighten it all back up when lowering a car? I always do this as it takes the twist out of bushes. If you don't do this it twist the bushes quite a lot. A lot of people don't do this and then wonder why the bushes wear out quickly.

(1) IMO i wouldnt have the rear lower than the front - considering its 4WD and the body under power is always going to be lower at the rear under these conditions.......... also less understeer!!!

its not like we need to have more weight over the rears for traction anyways

(2) yep.... otherwise u could also find your rear springs move round each time u jack the car up!!!

(1) IMO i wouldnt have the rear lower than the front - considering its 4WD and the body under power is always going to be lower at the rear under these conditions.......... also less understeer!!!

its not like we need to have more weight over the rears for traction anyways

(2) yep.... otherwise u could also find your rear springs move round each time u jack the car up!!!

Not sure what you mean here. My rear is higher than the front. Don't look at wheel arch measurements, look at the sill panel, this is the level line of the car. Wheel arches front to back are often not the same height.

How will the spring move around when they are captured?

Yep, always crack & loosen arms to settle bushes. Usually just run the car up on some ramps once I'm done; easier than preloading arms.

I think the rake on mine is only 10mm front to rear (rear higher).

Iain, I stand by my "Loss of rake equals increased understeer" theory, but it must be in relation to original heights; not just a blanket "Rear high equals awesome handling", probably should have clarified.

They poke out a bit, but nothing too crazy, just gotta roll the lips on the rear and you are sweet. just stretch some 245 tyres

Apologies for harping on about wheels so much - reckon a 19x9.5+15 would fit? It looks as though 19x9.5+22 is wide without being ridiculous, the 7mm should be pretty safe, yeah?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dort sounds above 3k rpm are dorty 🤣 I might krinkle black the alloy 🤔
    • It makes you wonder, all these people starting to make a billet replacement head, I wonder if any have thought about trying to adapt tech from newer engines into them. You're already at the full design stage to make a billet head... Why not really spice it up and had some more modern tech into the mix too...
    • Connect all the plumbing up properly. The actual worst part about having the turbo unable to actually build boost, is you can and likely would over soon the turbo if you drove the car (free rev while stationary isnt likely to manage it).   If you do have an air leak as Duncan suggested, you'll have a bad time as the AFM will be saying different to reality.   As you have had the engine out, I'd go over all electrical connections again. If you have a consult cable, plug it in, and see what the ECU thinks is going on. Did you touch the timing belt? If so, double check your timing on the gears is correct AND put a timing light on it while it's idling and see what ignition setting you have. Is the AFM you've installed the one that was in the car previously? You said you replaced seals, what seals exactly? What have you had apart?   From memory when I had my RB25DET with factory throttle, there was two plugs the TPS plug on the loom could go to. One would leave the car running like shit, the other made it work, I think one plug on the TPS area was for something else (an option). It's too many years since I saw that part of the loom to remember properly though.   Is the car idling smooth (as smooth as an RB can)? Does it smell fuelled up?   I have a feeling either timing in timing belt is off, or a sensor isn't right.
    • Theres still skid pan and motokhana days up in QLD at least that are $100 or less. The ones that are ran as "driver training" less so, they're expensive, but just normal skid pan days like SAU ran are still low cost. And thats one of the places I learned to be a lariken, purely by asking for passenger rides, and how people were doing crazy things. Reese gave me plenty of pointers back in the day for skid pan! And yes Duncan, I will never forget your pointers for track work. Especially after Neil got out saying "I am NEVER getting in the car with him again!" 😛
    • 49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
×
×
  • Create New...