Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Driving to work this morning, the heater isn't working. Just blowing cold air all morning. Temps were normal, didn't think too much about it. Just turned the climate control on and off a few times, didn't seem to do anything.

Then closer to work, temp is creeping up. Higher than normal but nothing ridiculous. Of course before long it's just below the H, I pull over and it's steaming.

Thing is, I reckon it's been cracked for a while. When I picked it up from the Toll depot there was a bit of coolant around the place, but the car never seemed to be complaining so I figured it was a previous coolant splash that had never been washed off. If this wasn't the case, then I've most likely been driving it around like normal, leaking the coolant slowly (the TransportSA inspection guys didn't say anything either), to the point where it's empty.

So yeah that's how my hour and a half commute to work was today. How hard is it to find radiators for these things?

Driving to work this morning, the heater isn't working. Just blowing cold air all morning. Temps were normal, didn't think too much about it. Just turned the climate control on and off a few times, didn't seem to do anything.

Then closer to work, temp is creeping up. Higher than normal but nothing ridiculous. Of course before long it's just below the H, I pull over and it's steaming.

Thing is, I reckon it's been cracked for a while. When I picked it up from the Toll depot there was a bit of coolant around the place, but the car never seemed to be complaining so I figured it was a previous coolant splash that had never been washed off. If this wasn't the case, then I've most likely been driving it around like normal, leaking the coolant slowly (the TransportSA inspection guys didn't say anything either), to the point where it's empty.

So yeah that's how my hour and a half commute to work was today. How hard is it to find radiators for these things?

Sorry to hear that. Seems like the previous owner hid the issue pretty well...or did the issue not manifest it self till now?

That was a m35 one yeah? Anyone know if v35 and m35 are identical?

Brad, ducati02 on here, did his radiator late last year - brief summary of it http://www.m35stagea.info/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=114&p=1048

Are you sure the radiator is cracked? The water only has to be half a litre short to show these kind of overheating issues, even 200ml will cause problems.

Can't say I'm 100% sure. Any way to test without one of those pressure things?

Just so you know the V35 manual one fit's in with a little bit of cutting......I had one in mine....I lent it to someone about 6 months ago for a couple of weeks. :P

When I do get it back it will be for sale.

Can't say I'm 100% sure. Any way to test without one of those pressure things?

Usually the Oring goes on the top tank. It may hold pressure fine until its hot. These can be replaced.

I would just fill the system from the rear bleeder, behind the drivers side head, and check it a few times to make sure its full. If it still leaks there is a problem.

The coolant can spurt out the top of the overflow container if it gets full which could be your spray in the engine bay.

Driving to work this morning, the heater isn't working. Just blowing cold air all morning. Temps were normal, didn't think too much about it. Just turned the climate control on and off a few times, didn't seem to do anything.

Then closer to work, temp is creeping up. Higher than normal but nothing ridiculous. Of course before long it's just below the H, I pull over and it's steaming.

Thing is, I reckon it's been cracked for a while. When I picked it up from the Toll depot there was a bit of coolant around the place, but the car never seemed to be complaining so I figured it was a previous coolant splash that had never been washed off. If this wasn't the case, then I've most likely been driving it around like normal, leaking the coolant slowly (the TransportSA inspection guys didn't say anything either), to the point where it's empty.

So yeah that's how my hour and a half commute to work was today. How hard is it to find radiators for these things?

They also had to fit a radiator to mine prior to compliance as it had a split tank, so it must be common?

Usually the Oring goes on the top tank. It may hold pressure fine until its hot. These can be replaced.

I would just fill the system from the rear bleeder, behind the drivers side head, and check it a few times to make sure its full. If it still leaks there is a problem.

The coolant can spurt out the top of the overflow container if it gets full which could be your spray in the engine bay.

You reckon fill it up and give it a few more days to see how it goes?

Where is this Oring? I need to get FAST sorted out so I can look at the diagrams...

You reckon fill it up and give it a few more days to see how it goes?

Where is this Oring? I need to get FAST sorted out so I can look at the diagrams...

Yep, I have had the overheating thing so many times, I just fill at the rear bleed and it goes away. That said, if it is leaking you should keep a few litres of water in the back just in case.

They also had to fit a radiator to mine prior to compliance as it had a split tank, so it must be common?

If the top tank is cracked you will definitely know about it. The Oring seals the whole underside of the top tank and usually only weeps when warm, sometimes it sprays out from one side.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Read the ECU for fault codes or have someone else do it. A faulty coolant temperature sender is usually listed in ECUs. If the sensor itself is not busted it can also be a bad ground connection. Or in a really unlucky case, damaged wiring.
    • Can't be a Futjitsubo as those are made with a flex piece and Reimax is smaller in pipe diameter. If anything it is closest to a Mines pipe, but evidently it is not an actual Mines pipe.   Classic word humor
    • Alright I will try to not forget.   As GTSboy replied to you already, problem is mainly the mismatch between the actual exhaust part and the denomination in the papers. That basically just looks like tampering to a cop, if they were to check your car and notice. If it had been done right they would have clarified it to be a custom pipe and just given it a certain part number that you have to engrave or weld onto the pipe. I will definitely inquire on what to do. Changing the pipe wouldn't be my favorite solution as it costs a bunch of money and the cat was fitted with the front pipe and exhaust under the car, and if the front pipe flange does not sit in the OEM location the cat will need to be refit for any other pipe to work. It also usually doesn't need a brand name or something like that, but more something like a part number. Usually for exhaust parts, on silencers and cat units specifically, there is a badge that reads the certificate number that belongs to these exhaust parts under EU regulation. You get these numbers after you put a part or group of parts through the tedious testing according to EU vehicle legislation and they pass. You can find these "part numbers" on various parts throughout a EU vehicle. On windows, headlights, engine parts, seat belts and so on. All these parts have gone through standardized testing and acquired a so called ECE or EG Certificate that makes them legal to use by themselves in all countries that adhere to these standards. You can also not alter these parts in any way, if you do they become illegal. An example for stampings on an exterior lighting part, the people who need to know can find the documentation for this unit in a database. I do not know what all the standards and so on mean.
    • If that was the case I suppose you could call it "Mein's" brand....  ... I'll see myself out... 😅
×
×
  • Create New...