Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Rewired towbar plug so that I have no external socket for my trailer; so much neater.

Used flat cable so I can just put it out through the tailgate when I need it, and chuck it in the wheel well when not in use.

A bit boring, but still...

Might fit the new plastic mesh insert in my front bar tomorrow if I don't go riding.

Edited by Daleo

Humour me - by removing the factory radiator (losing the transmission cooler), and then installing a 11"x7-1/2"x3/4" transmission cooler, along with about 800mm of extra hose total, surely the system would need more fluid?

At the moment the dipstick doesn't show any dark fluid on it, which is exactly what is draining from the trans cooler hoses, but appears to have a heap of fluid on it - up to the little s bend in the dipstick.

Is this a problem with topping up from the dipstick?

I've read on the G35 forums that the dipstick is pretty hard to read, but if anyone has any advice I'd like to hear it.

My advice is the dipsticks on our cars are shit.

How much fluid did you put in? Probably only talking about 0.5-1L difference.

Where are you filling it from?

so epic fail with the 'wire cut' mod. must have cut the wrong wire. when i flicked the switch, it dropped a cylinder lol

anyway, installed a western digital live media player in the car. works fine, mounted up front in one of those waste-of-space pocket things. cut out a hole (nice and bodgey) and mounted it in there.

im getting a bit of noise in the picture so ill have to use a sheilded co-ax cable to the back of the car.

so epic fail with the 'wire cut' mod. must have cut the wrong wire. when i flicked the switch, it dropped a cylinder lol

anyway, installed a western digital live media player in the car. works fine, mounted up front in one of those waste-of-uuspace pocket things. cut out a hole (nice and bodgey) and mounted it in there.

im getting a bit of noise in the picture so ill have to use a sheilded co-ax cable to the back of the car.

Lol at cutting the wrong wire...

Are u running the stock firmware on the wdtv? Can it act as a DLNA server?

i upgraded the firmware last week when i got it. yes its WD firmware

i have a DLNA server already, but it will read the files off it. as for it BEING the server, no idea sorry.

so epic fail with the 'wire cut' mod. must have cut the wrong wire. when i flicked the switch, it dropped a cylinder lol

Bugger! pinch.gif

I must admit; it took me a while to drag it out of the middle of the harness, they don't want you going after it... Maybe you can market your mod as "Active Cylinder Deactivation" just like a VE Crumblydore...

Don't let it deter you; go again!

I thought the " Awesome" didn't need the snippage anyway?

the awesome becomes more awesomerer with the wire snip :)

i have a factory size toggle switch to go into the 3 spots down on the right, they are all full on my car, so is the 4th one below :(

the awesome becomes more awesomerer with the wire snip :)

i have a factory size toggle switch to go into the 3 spots down on the right, they are all full on my car, so is the 4th one below :(

I used a Stainless steel switch from Jaycar; http://www.jaycar.co...&SUBCATID=978#1

product_14049.jpg

Flush mount, you could put one of these anywhere as they are really low profile. I used one of the factory spots (cos I have no options :whistling: )

I was considering putting the switch on the parking brake but the switch I had wouldn't have worked. Plastic version of what Daleo posted

My plan was to put the switch on the actual pedal so when you pushed it down you would be pushing on the switch.

I ended up putting the switch in the compartment above the glove box

a toggle switch would be better IMO, that way you can leave it in normal mode for when the wifey/dodgey mate drives it.

plus then you dont have to press the brake while holding the button in :P

BTW, because that ECU input is a simple 12V, if you don't want to throw a switch (or push a button) AND press the brake pedal every now and then to keep the MIL light off, you could wire the switch with 12V to the ECU (ie. not from your brake pedal)

Yeah, I know, by the time you flick the switch / press the button you might as well press the brake as well....lol

Edited by Commsman

Well I got my braided lines and wireless reverse camera in the mail yesterday, just waiting on the rear rotors and suspension now.

Not sure if I'm even getting my suspension now. If I don't hear from Street to Track by tomorrow I'll be reporting to the bank to get my money back. Service is terrible, and still waiting for my shocks 3 weeks later. Now they guy won't even respond to emails. Major disappointment.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To be fair passengers who aren't silly and have been in proper fast cars have often been pretty impressed once you hit 4th gear   
    • I suppose that's true. Barring almost any situation, I'll never sell so what the market does is kind of irrelevant to me. It's possible I'd make most of my money back. That spreadsheet I mentioned? Maybe I could make back more than what the car's total costs thus far are, but the parts and all that is possibly a different story... Thanks for reading. It was certainly a good moment and just makes the ties to the car that much stronger. It's exciting that the option will be there to bring it over, however I have some plans with a shop that may end up keeping the car there longer, not sure. Coupled with the fact I want to move there and haven't solidified any path yet. So in a way, it feels like I'm in a limbo state that is uncertain; time will tell.
    • No worries, everything worked out in the end. I just wanted to make the point that it doesn't matter where it comes from (I.E Australia), it can be broken or improperly built. I would still purchase from these companies in the future. B2R - Not certain how that finished, this was on a car I wired a few things and street tuned. I know the owner ended up shipping the motor back to Australia for investigation. Hopefully some of it is covered under warranty.  Turbosmart - I always pressure test everything that goes on my car. It's a habit from my career in oil and gas. I run two 40mm's and both had major leaks from the actuator to exhaust portion through the shaft. I returned both, they shipped me back two and one was leaking and the other had a 38mm top (40mm gate with 38mm actuator cap, no idea how that happens). Eventually after a lot of back and forth I found myself with two non-leaking gates. I believe this happens a lot more then people would like to believe but you would never know if you don't pressure test them prior to installation. Crank Motorsport - Issued a full refund and let me keep the seat rails. I turned them into scrap metal for other projects. GKTech - Shipped me out a replacement and asked that I modify it as per my idea and that they would do the same for a future revision. ATP - Can just needed a large shim to bolt up properly.  Haltech - They started an actual proper Beta channel for firmware's a few months back and stopped using the general public for testing. I'm now much happier.  Speedtek - f**k Speedtek. I would love to watch them burn.     
    • I've got a Turbosmart wastegate, ATP catch can, many GK Tech parts and Haltech everything. Everything's been perfect, sorry to hear your experience wasn't the same
×
×
  • Create New...