Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

With the 7psi actuator its hard to run any more than that, even with a controller. You may get 20psi midrange but it will always drop to around 15 by redline without increasing the spring tension on the wastegate.

The exhaust manifold pressure literally blows the wastegate puck open on boost bypassing the turbo hence welding a stiff spring to the actuator to hold it better.

All the stock turbo failures I have seen have been due to oil starvation/heat on the rear bearing as Dale mentioned.

Lol Scotty, I should have referenced you in there mate; it's been your hard work and development that has brought this information to light.

I fitted the dump by itself on a factory exhaust and I'm convinced it makes the turbos life easier.

Speaking of which, Slippy and I were both talking about running a dump on the standard exhaust.

Are there power gains to be seen from running an aftermarket dump on the factory exhaust? Would it be more hassle than it's worth running a custom system from the turbo back to the factory "sports" muffler? I know that the factory exhaust weighs a ton so I figure it's worthwhile getting rid of, but I quite like the fact that I can press a button and my exhaust goes quiet, but if it's going to significantly impact the gains it's just a waste of money trying to keep it..

Speaking of which, Slippy and I were both talking about running a dump on the standard exhaust.

Are there power gains to be seen from running an aftermarket dump on the factory exhaust? Would it be more hassle than it's worth running a custom system from the turbo back to the factory "sports" muffler? I know that the factory exhaust weighs a ton so I figure it's worthwhile getting rid of, but I quite like the fact that I can press a button and my exhaust goes quiet, but if it's going to significantly impact the gains it's just a waste of money trying to keep it..

Yes,, 100% worth the effort.

Standard dump has a cat in it. Which then connects to a mid pipe... with a cat in it... and the massive box of baffles.

If you really want to keep the Nismo rear I'd do dump and mid pipe. But you should see a huge gain just doing dump and midpipe.

Andrew at AM Performance designed his exhaust so that it matches up to the factory mounting locations, so you can buy a dump and midpipe and it should be easy to connect to the Nismo muffler. Or just get him to do it, either way.

Standard dump has a cat in it. Which then connects to a mid pipe... with a cat in it... and the massive box of baffles.

If you really want to keep the Nismo rear I'd do dump and mid pipe. But you should see a huge gain just doing dump and midpipe.

Andrew at AM Performance designed his exhaust so that it matches up to the factory mounting locations, so you can buy a dump and midpipe and it should be easy to connect to the Nismo muffler. Or just get him to do it, either way.

This sounds good.

So would the midpipe replace the baffles? I want to get rid of that. Do you know if his system has a cat too? Think it would be a lot louder replacing the standard dump (cat), midpipe (cat) and box of baffles with just a cat?

This sounds good.

So would the midpipe replace the baffles? I want to get rid of that. Do you know if his system has a cat too? Think it would be a lot louder replacing the standard dump (cat), midpipe (cat) and box of baffles with just a cat?

If you want it quiet, get a Blitz NUR cat-back and then get whomever to make up a dump and frontpipe/cat to bolt up to the Blitz.

Stock is 82dB

Blitz is 82dB (but 80mm and straight through design. Cheap too)

Everything else is 86db+

If you want it quiet, get a Blitz NUR cat-back and then get whomever to make up a dump and frontpipe/cat to bolt up to the Blitz.

Stock is 82dB

Blitz is 82dB (but 80mm and straight through design. Cheap too)

Everything else is 86db+

Yeah see I'm fine with that every other day of the week, but the little switch is a nice thing to have. Especially while driving interstate to get rid of the drone.

Out of curiosity, what are the Blitz cat backs worth?

Yeah see I'm fine with that every other day of the week, but the little switch is a nice thing to have. Especially while driving interstate to get rid of the drone.

Out of curiosity, what are the Blitz cat backs worth?

Thats what I like about the switch as well

Yeah see I'm fine with that every other day of the week, but the little switch is a nice thing to have. Especially while driving interstate to get rid of the drone.

Out of curiosity, what are the Blitz cat backs worth?

I would be interested in your current system if you upgrade.

Out of curiosity, what are the Blitz cat backs worth?

I got mine thru Jesse a while back & it cost ~$950. People have reported them for as low as $799 from Just Jap (plus freight?), depending on exchange rates & how many they bring in at a time.

Point to note, exhausts get louder over time as the sound deadening settles down. I'm very pleased I didn't go with a louder one as mine is now probably at the level that most guys would say is what they like, but if it keeps getting louder so help me..... lol.

Also, the tip is a bit on the big side for a 'mature' bloke like me.

Another late one trying to resolve the timing/electrical issue.

I'll attack this again tomorrow night....thanks iain for your help.

Edited by Jetwreck

no worries craig, see you there again tonight!

when we were bleeding the attesa system last night, craig put his foot on the brake and one of my braided brake lines split and pissed out brake fluid.

LUCKILY the old set were still next door. threw them on and im able to drive

just be aware M35 drivers, dont get the cheaper braided brake lines from IM. just get nismo or have a set made up by maltech. actually wasnt someone organising that?? im pretty sure i gave a set to someone to have that done

Front trim off and ECU out, to take down to SAS to see if they can chip it for tuning the Turbo Kit! banana.gif

Fingers Crossed!

Can you ask them for Craig and my ECU back that we gave them 18 months ago to see if they can tune our cars. :(

no worries craig, see you there again tonight!

when we were bleeding the attesa system last night, craig put his foot on the brake and one of my braided brake lines split and pissed out brake fluid.

LUCKILY the old set were still next door. threw them on and im able to drive

just be aware M35 drivers, dont get the cheaper braided brake lines from IM. just get nismo or have a set made up by maltech. actually wasnt someone organising that?? im pretty sure i gave a set to someone to have that done

Faaark!blink.gif You surely dodged a bullet there Iain; could've been a disaster.

Specialised Brake & Clutch in Penrith made me a set of Goodridge ADR legal lines for my last car; they were around $80-$90 each. All pressure tested to ensure things like that don't happen.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Very decent bit of kit. Definitely black it out I reckon.  
    • Because people who want that are buying euros. The people with the money to buy the aftermarket heads and blocks aren’t interested in efficiency or making -7 power, they’re making well over 1,000hp and pretty much only drive them at full throttle  best way to way make money is know your customer base and what they want and don’t spend money making things they don’t want. 
    • It's not, but it does feel like a bit of a missed opportunity regardless. For example, what if the cylinder head was redesigned to fit a GDI fuel system? It's worth like two full points of compression ratio when looking at modern GDI turbo vs PFI turbo. I'm pretty reliably surprised at how much less turbo it takes to make similar power out of a modern engine vs something like an RB26. Something with roughly the same dimensions as a -7 on an S55 is making absolutely silly power numbers compared to an RB26. I know there's a ton of power loss from things like high tension rings, high viscosity oil, clutch fan, AWD standby loss, etc but it's something like 700 whp in an F80 M3 vs 400 whp in an R33 GTR. The stock TF035HL4W turbos in an F80 M3 are really rather dinky little things and that's enough to get 400 whp at 18 psi. This just seems unwise no? I thought the general approach is if you aren't knock limited the MFB50 should be held constant through the RPM range. So more timing with RPM, but less timing with more cylinder filling. A VE-based table should accordingly inverse the VE curve of the engine.
    • I've seen tunes from big name workshops with cars making in excess of 700kW and one thing that stood out to me, is that noone is bothering with torque management. Everyone is throwing in as much timing as the motor can take for a pull. Sure that yields pretty numbers on a dyno, but it's not keeping these motors together for more than a few squirts down the straight without blowing coolant or head gaskets. If tuners, paid a bit more attention and took timing out in the mid range, managed boost a bit better, you'll probably see less motors grenading. Not to name names, or anything like that, but I've seen a tune, from a pretty wild GT-R from a big name tuner and I was but perplexed on the amount of timing jammed into it. You would have expected a quite a bit less timing at peak torque versus near the limiter, but there was literally 3 degrees of difference. Sure you want to make as much as possible throughout the RPM range, but why? At the expense of blowing motors? Anyhow I think we've gone off topic enough once again lol.
    • Because that’s not what any of them are building these heads or blocks for. It’s to hold over over 1000hp at the wheels without breaking and none of that stuff is required to make power 
×
×
  • Create New...