Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Speaking of which, do you think its worth adding a fine inline filter for the trans cooler?

Could be but it does have 2 large magnets + a large fine filter and 4 small ones......one would think that that would be enough to get rid of most of the crap. In saying that I have had a couple of gearbox's with so much crap on the magnets that they looked like Donut's but all of those gearbox's were driven across the gate most of the time....funny enough my old crapped out gearbox was pretty clean throughout!

One of the main things I do when I do these kits is make sure that all the components a free of all crap and very clean before the VB goes back in!

1. New Radiator due to leak in top tank (nothing special - just Koyo aftermarket OEM style but for $240 delivered and no modifications required it was a good fix to get me back on the road).

2. Oil Change

3. New tyres on the rear today due to camber wear....

Temporarily fixed rattling side skirt brackets, seems grey tape isn't enough though.

Hate the idea of tek screwing my sills.

Slackarse bodykit fitter, not attaching them properly (was on it when I bought it).

The brackets don't line up with the inserts already fitted to my sills.

Sika may have to be employed........

Finally ordered a trans cooler, the same B & M with thermostat that jasevr4 is running. Will get it in with the shift kit, hopefully before the end of the year

Finally ordered a trans cooler, the same B & M with thermostat that jasevr4 is running. Will get it in with the shift kit, hopefully before the end of the year

I bought the PWR heavy duty V8 trans cooler kit from Repco. Was $130 but during November it's 20% off with an RAA card. I used a work mates card :) so only $103.

Edited by slippylotion

Yeah I was going to go that way, but knowing that the B & M would fit with the HDI intercooler was a bit of a comfort.

Worked out the same price, and has a thermostat built in, so all good! :thumbsup:

removed all the un used stereo wirring that ran to the back of the car which was left in there from japan!

also pulled out my fuel pump to check if it has been upgraded from the standard R33 GTR item, Unfortunately it hasn't been.

need to sell it to upgrade to 040 or nismo

i'd get the deatschwerks fuel pump

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DeatschWerks-300-LPH-Fuel-Pump-In-Tank-w-Install-Kit-Similar-GSS342-NEW-/310350325524?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4842522714

same size as stock, 300lph and cheaper than an 040

replaced both front swaybar links, and bushes, and tinted my front windows :banana:

As a matter of interest; what was the cost of the front links? Did you replace both pieces? Can you add the part number to the M35 Info thread?thanks.gif

Tinting the front windows makes the car look so much better!thumbsup.gif

Slippy: Tint didn't cost me anything (mates rates), complete windscreens on main north road, 35% as i want to keep it legalish (my privacy glass has tint on it aswell [not legal]). Tell them I I told you to come in and they'll do you a deal.

Daleo: The swaybar links ("rod stabelizer and connecting stabelizer" is what it says on my invoice) were replaced under warranty with no part numbers on the invoice (from japan they took 2 weeks). My mate works in parts for nissan and he got me the part numbers though......

RH= 54618-aq300

LH= 54668-aq300 both ex japan 10-15 days

Edited by MOUTH

Don't use the tierod ends I posted up

Taper is too small (I was finally able to compare them back to back with stock ones)

The hunt continues today...

A busy weekend on the M35...a full set of QFM HPX pads went in, as well as an oil change and filter. All the Swaybar fixings were checked and tyres rotated, and last night I cleaned out everything that could rattle, move or slide in preparation for a track day on Thursday at Mallala.

The forecast says maybe 5-10mm of rain...mine will be the only 4WD out there so I'm hoping it's right!

Ryan, did you ever make it out there in yours? Have any other M35s got a lap time I can aim for?

I didn't make it out, I had to work. Not sure if Dunc has a time you can aim for?

Good luck! Let us know how you go and make sure you have lots of pics!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pic of Nos, turbo kit and sequential not loading. 404 not found
    • im sure mine stays in gear and wont shift unless i shift it? and for sure it wont go back to Auto mode if its put in manual mode? if i use paddles but its still in D then of course it goes back to auto mode. but yer if its in -+ and i use paddles it will not auto change gears what so ever and i have tried this. it will gear down if at a stop though which is kinda nice but goes back to 1st gear not D. i think it used to be like this with imports aswell i dunno if its really like it anymore like when i got my R33 it had alot of JDM options which local cars didnt have. Now local cars have kinda caught up even the lower models. but yer transfer rates and other things makes it almost on par.
    • Very decent bit of kit. Definitely black it out I reckon.  
    • Because people who want that are buying euros. The people with the money to buy the aftermarket heads and blocks aren’t interested in efficiency or making -7 power, they’re making well over 1,000hp and pretty much only drive them at full throttle  best way to way make money is know your customer base and what they want and don’t spend money making things they don’t want. 
    • It's not, but it does feel like a bit of a missed opportunity regardless. For example, what if the cylinder head was redesigned to fit a GDI fuel system? It's worth like two full points of compression ratio when looking at modern GDI turbo vs PFI turbo. I'm pretty reliably surprised at how much less turbo it takes to make similar power out of a modern engine vs something like an RB26. Something with roughly the same dimensions as a -7 on an S55 is making absolutely silly power numbers compared to an RB26. I know there's a ton of power loss from things like high tension rings, high viscosity oil, clutch fan, AWD standby loss, etc but it's something like 700 whp in an F80 M3 vs 400 whp in an R33 GTR. The stock TF035HL4W turbos in an F80 M3 are really rather dinky little things and that's enough to get 400 whp at 18 psi. This just seems unwise no? I thought the general approach is if you aren't knock limited the MFB50 should be held constant through the RPM range. So more timing with RPM, but less timing with more cylinder filling. A VE-based table should accordingly inverse the VE curve of the engine.
×
×
  • Create New...