Jump to content
SAU Community

What Have You Done To Your Stagea Lately?

Hanso

By Hanso,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted (edited)

My missus didn't know what to say when I told her; sent me a message when she got to work, telling me to do whatever I need to make it right. She's cool like that, no "It's just a car" from her.

Aaaahh, so you have an good/understanding one as well thumbsup.gif

Edited by iamhe77
  • Replies 9.3k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

chuckie
chuckie

FITTED 2 NEW BOLTS TO MY Brakes is this a MOD i CAN POST or do i need aprovall from NM#% But i may need to ask if it`s ok to POST hope to POST MORE SOON

chuckie
chuckie

Thanks for all your HELP , I guess owning a NM#% is some sort of gift , i guess with all your imput i will be happy to have a NM#% in the family & may be you will be more helpfully then, but a

chuckie
chuckie

LOOKING AT BUYING NM#% CAN I GET SOME POINTERS ON WHATS SHIT & WHATS NOT got some new bolts for Calipers

Posted Images

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted (edited)

Mate that straight up sucks. Anything else wrong with the body at all? Worth scratching it some more and making an insurance claim?

Lol, no; the rest of the car is basically flawless. That's why I'm so cranky. A couple of the Sydney guys can probably vouch for the paint.whistling.gif

What is this issue you're referring to Dale?

The clear coat on all of the V35/M35's is very soft. It's very easy to mar the paint; and it shows up worst on dark blue, and particularly black. It also doesn't appear very UV resistant.

There is actually a factory option; "Clear Hardcoat" (I think that's what it's called) which is a kind of paint protection that most owners optioned on darker colours, but it is sacrificial, and eventually wears off.

It's a bit of a double edged sword though, being soft; it can take a knock and not crack, and it doesn't take a huge amount of muscle to do Paint Correction.

My painter offered to rub back the clear and spray a House of Kolor clear and then wet sand, another coat, wet sand and correct.

The HOK clear is a very high quality UV stable clear and it is much much harder than the factory clear. He called it a "Diamond Hard" clear. It would resist scratching much more and would be basically a show car quality finish.

Whilst being very tempting; I tend to think this may make it even more of a target than it already is, and the finish would require the at least the same level of care as it does now; very likely more.

I'm not sure I could deal with slowly covering it in stonechips though.

I think there's probably a happy medium somewhere in between, I'll have to sit down & have a chat with him. The advantage is; he absolutely loves the car, and knows I'm bordering on obsessive about it too.

Edited by Daleo
Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

Aaaahh, so you have an good/understanding one as well thumbsup.gif

Lol Cam, I think I've worn her down with it over time. yes.gif

She rolls her eyes and occasionally cracks it, but she rather likes driving around in a spotless, well maintained car while some of her friends drive unreliable, dirty shitboxes.whistling.gif

pbk1776 Mentor

pbk1776

Posted
Posted

I think my front radar grill would look funny with no badge at all, the infiniti badge still makes people say wtf is that

Yes- done that to my ARX not long ago - looks like DOREIMON lol then I put it back

jasevr4 Mentor

jasevr4

Posted
Posted
The clear coat on all of the V35/M35's is very soft. It's very easy to mar the paint; and it shows up worst on dark blue, and particularly black. It also doesn't appear very UV resistant.

Very interesting! I know All Type had trouble really getting a good shine out of my paintjob. Said it took them three times longer than usual. S'pose that had something to do with it.

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

Very interesting! I know All Type had trouble really getting a good shine out of my paintjob. Said it took them three times longer than usual. S'pose that had something to do with it.

Yeah, the detailer that originally corrected my car said every time he went to buff the polish residue off the car; he scratched it.pinch.gif

PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

Dale that sucks mate. Especially so, since you spent that time polishing and buffing- I know how much you care, because I know how hard it is to keep a black car.

At least it sounds like you have some contacts in the paint and panel to sort it out. Where did it get scratched if you don't mind me asking- it will go onto my suburb avoidance listtongue.gif

I have a sticker saying 5 year coat or something like that on my car - is that what you guys are calling dealer paint protection?

pipster11 Grand Master

pipster11

Posted
Posted

A suspension guy says he has found a replacement tie rod end that matches the stocker

Should have it tmrw, so will post the part number when I get it :-)

Saving so much money not driving it tho, and the r31 is getting some love too

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

Dale that sucks mate. Especially so, since you spent that time polishing and buffing- I know how much you care, because I know how hard it is to keep a black car.

At least it sounds like you have some contacts in the paint and panel to sort it out. Where did it get scratched if you don't mind me asking- it will go onto my suburb avoidance listtongue.gif

I have a sticker saying 5 year coat or something like that on my car - is that what you guys are calling dealer paint protection?

Cheers Alex; been garnering a bit of sympathy today from friends and family.:thanks:

Yeah, have been planning to get the door rubbing strips colour coded and the plasitc panel at the base of the hatch repainted; once the new bars went on, they looked a little average...

So I might actually get the whole hatch debadged and re-done; no need to remove parts if he's going to have the whole car. Going to see what the cost is and decide from there; but I think I'll just pay my excess for the rear quarter repair and then add in what I need to get it all done.

It was done in a carpark behind my local shops in Springwood; miles out of the way, and the same cars were parked both sides when I got back.

That's what shits me; an accident, or a scratch from a bag I can deal with, even if they don't leave details. But this was vindictive; someone saw the car, went out of their way to walk over, deliberately got something out , scratched the car, and walked off. Weak flamin mongrel.

38709110150475868546424.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

38836510150475868781424.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Looks good :thumbsup: The 10mm offset change makes all the difference; much nicer wheels.

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

Springwood QLD?

If so I'll have to keep an eye out next time I'm up there - my sister lives just near there.

Springwood NSW :thumbsup:.

Might be a little out of your way.:whistling:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • rahilp
      Requirements for Xenon Headlights? (Possible Solution)

      By rahilp · Posted

      Hi There I went through a rabbit hole of reading about Xenon headlights and the ADR regulations for having them installed. As people have been defected by running factory xenon I was researching in ways to make them compliant. Everyone always say needs to be self leveling and have washer installed, which I don't necessarily agree with. For this argument I'm using R34 as reference as I'm more aware on the construction of the headlight compared to the R33 Xenon, which may still be the exact same case.   For the self leveling clause taken from ADR 13 - Installation of Lighting and Light Signalling Devices on other than L-Group Vehicles As you can see the bold text "these manually adjustable devices from driver seats" are fine to use. As Series 1 Xenon model headlights do have a 4 level adjuster on the right near the ignition (however not series 2) then these model are consider compliant in that argument.   For the Self Cleaning aspect of this argument clause taken from ADR 13 - Installation of Lighting and Light Signalling Devices on other than L-Group Vehicles Now i can understand the argument that Xenon will need a washer as they are over 2000 lumens, but I clicked on the 12 at the end of that sentence and it takes me to the end notes which states R34 for headlight lenses are plastic, not sure if PL is mark as I don't currently have my skyline to confirm that marking is there. But could you not technically get a lenses with the PL marking on it and then get away with the argument that you need a washer. I went through a quick read of the adr and might have missed something else that may cause them to be non-complaint.    But wouldn't these technically be complaint headlights   Would love to hear other people input on this and shed some light   Edit In regard to the the washer portion I might be mistaken ADR 45 (which I believe is Regulation NO.45) states 12 cd (candela) I dont understand that portion in regarding to calculating the candela if anyone can shed some light. Otherwise I guess throw in a washer for the headlight and you definitely comply.
    • r32-25t
      R32 Gtr Long Term Love, Now Project

      By r32-25t · Posted

      Took it to all Japan day, flogged the hell out of it and took it all, am a very very happy man  don’t know how that ended up in Greg’s thread before
    • ARB26
      Stagea 260RS seats

      By ARB26 · Posted

      Hey Nismo, any chance in the world you still have these seats?
    • Lithium
      Forced Performance Hta Turbos

      By Lithium · Posted

      I'd say closer to OG GTX3582R, just smaller trim - so 59mm inducer/82mm exducer as opposed to 62/82 for the first gen GTX3582R. Yeah EFRs were boss, the EFR8474 is still an absolute beast and it perplexes me that people still go to things like Turbosmart/Garrett etc when the results people are getting with those are pretty unremarkable compared to what you could get with a turbo available well before those options came out.  DriftSquid (I think) "upgraded" from an EFR9174 to a Turbosmart turbo and promised a comparison video - and kinda shuffled awkwardly and did a bit of diversion from the fact that they didn't get any improvement going to the currently massively hyped brand of turbo from a turbo that was a bit of a frankenstein that had been well superceded in it's own range before the Turbosmart unit he put on there even came out. I suspect the EFR would outperform most Xonas for what a lot of less-insane RB owners would go for, in the 400-600kw range but the Xonas are looking hard to beat up to maybe in the mid 700kw range at this stage- basically where EFRs don't really reach, and before the Precision turbos take over.  What the Xonas do well in the "EFR range" is be easier to package etc, and work very well if a divided housing doesn't suit your application.  
    • WMDC35
      Tomei gasket

      By WMDC35 · Posted

      Are you sure the gasket is blown? What are the issues? Thermocure is the only flush I've seen do anything with rust, very impressed with that, Prestone, rust will be by the pool having a cigarette.  
×
×
  • Create New...