What Have You Done To Your Stagea Lately?

[theferris]

Looks like what happens when only tap water is used instead of a coolant/demineralised water mix.

Thanks for lowering my heart rate a bit, only had it for a week, and I have to start a gearbox swap on my Jeep.

When I drained it there was only a very faint smell of antifreeze, like it had a bottle of premix put in then topped up with tap water.

[iamhe77]

Coolant also inhibits corrosion, so first step would be to thoroughly flush and then fill with appropriate coolant/demineralised water mix IMO.

[theferris]

Coolant also inhibits corrosion, so first step would be to thoroughly flush and then fill with appropriate coolant/demineralised water mix IMO.

Thats the plan, I think Ill run through some coolant treatment stuff before aswell for good measure. Do the thermostat at the same time.

[PN-Mad]

Thats the plan, I think Ill run through some coolant treatment stuff before aswell for good measure. Do the thermostat at the same time.

Also - take some of the smaller coolant lines off, and the heater core lines and flush them through - you may find a lot of crap floating around in the wee little areas and corners of the system. I flush my heater core out when I change coolant and usually some shit comes out.

Its important to get good flow around the system because certain valve thermostats open and close based on it.

[Daleo]

Sent out back up turbo for rebuild today; should see it back early next week.

Also, finally reassembled and fitted my R34 GTSt calipers and rotors!

These were stripped and bead blasted, then coated in a 600deg ceramic coating; that is impervious to chemical and brake fluid attack, so they should be near on indestructible, and look great for ages.

Rotors were basically brand new OEM Nissan, and since they're a nice high carbon content steel, I decided to use them, so these were also bead blasted, coated, then sent out for machining and slotting.

Pics;

For anyone thinking of using the 310mm R34 GTSt brake upgrade; you will need to cut away or remove the backing plates from the front hubs; as they foul the rotors.

Not a big deal, but you'll need to be handy with a grinder to do a neat job.

Also; I remove the double flare seat from the brake line thread, this means you don't need to butcher your banjo's to fit the OEM lines. You can just use a small ezy out, or a self tapper to yank it out.

I had expected them to be a nightmare to bleed; given they were completely dry internally, but they were probably the easiest brake bleed I've ever done! Only took around 5 mins a side; and the pedal came up great.

Still bedding the unknown original pads ATM; and I'll be using a fresh new set of Remsa's from GSL Rallysport by the end of the week, so I'm not sure what the power will be like, but they certainly seems decent so far.

Edited July 16, 2012 by Daleo

[PN-Mad]

Looks great Dale! Stone shields are for pussys anyway

You didn't want to wait till you got new pads to bed them in? I heard that brakes like having the one pad compound applied to the surface. Brakes are a dark art to me - so many different opinions, I dunno what right. There is a lot of BS floating around out there I think.

One thing I haven't got right, and effects things, is the wheel nut torque can cause shudder and warp in discs. Sigh. Fark I hate brakes.

[slippylotion]

Dale, what specs are you getting the turbo built to?

[impul535w]

Fitted slotted RDA rotors and QFM HPX pads all round. Thanks to Craig for the quick walk through.

[Big Fella]

Fitted slotted RDA rotors and QFM HPX pads all round. Thanks to Craig for the quick walk through.

Guess you aren't coming down next Saturday then.

[4bidn1]

You still alive Robbie, hows the monster truck going

[Big Fella]

Still kicking man, trucks going well, needs to be louder tho, the twin 4" pipes are too quiet. Lol

You sold the rx4 yet?

[Daleo]

Looks great Dale! Stone shields are for pussys anyway

You didn't want to wait till you got new pads to bed them in? I heard that brakes like having the one pad compound applied to the surface. Brakes are a dark art to me - so many different opinions, I dunno what right. There is a lot of BS floating around out there I think.

One thing I haven't got right, and effects things, is the wheel nut torque can cause shudder and warp in discs. Sigh. Fark I hate brakes.

The pads aren't a big issue really; I'm not actually "bedding" these pads (heat cycling to transfer pad material on to the rotors) which is what makes the brakes work properly.

The friction of the pads pressing against the rotor is not what makes brakes work; it's the grabbing and breaking of bonds between the pad material deposited on the rotor surface and the pad itself.

You are right about the incompatibility of differing pad materials; but 30 km of driving, with maybe 4 light brake applications isn't going to be an issue. You really need a proper heat cycle bed in, and a few hundred kays of driving.

I've never really heard about wheel nut torque being particularly critical; but a wild variation might be an issue. I've never used anything but a wheel brace or a breaker bar & socket.

The one that does fool the younger players, is the effect a dud wheel bearing can have; brakes will develop a shudder over 5000km and rotors need machining; only to develop a shudder after another 5000km.

The other is the fact that discs rarely actually warp; the shudder you feel is almost never a disc with axial runout; it is almost always an uneven build up of pad material on the rotor, or a hard spot on the rotor that has a different coefficient of friction to the rest of the rotor.

This can also manifest in severe chatter when attempting to machine the rotor.

Dale, what specs are you getting the turbo built to?

I've ended up going with the tried and true "Sierra Stage 2" which ironically; is almost identical in wheel size to a 2871.

I spent a good piece of time today speaking to the turbo builder, and looking at a number of different impellers and turbines to demonstrate his viewpoint.

I was pretty sold, as he was the only one that would actually justify his selection; rather than just "This is what we use."

The main reason I didn't end up going with the 2860 was the fact that he doesn't believe there is enough material in the housings to guarantee that it can be machined accurately to take the 28 series core. This is why the common choice is the 30 series Garrett core; even though for most people, it's a bit big for good response.

At the end of the day I'm satisfied it will do what I want, and I've essentially made it so I'll need to do a bit of tuning to get the best out of it; which is what my tinkering mind wanted to do anyway.

That, and I will now be able to make lag based excuses about why my car can't win a drag race.

TL;DR?

I know SFA about brakes, and even less about turbos...

[PN-Mad]

Great post Dale. I read the same thing regarding warp vs build up. I have certainly suffered the build up before but thankfully seemed to have wiped themselves.

It was an IS200 that was really fussy about nut torque. Had new discs on it, only to warp quickly. Once we dealt with that and went factory on the torque via wrench, was all good.

I'm really yet to give the sumitomos/PMus a good long hammering in the Stagea, to see what they do when really hot, but they are certainly a good upgrade over stock.

Stage 2- that's the same as what is on andy's old arx I think. Worked well on that I believe.

[Commsman]

Dale, now I know why you sounded confident about getting the turbo back early next week, lol.

Looking forward to the first impressions report when you get it in.

Edited July 16, 2012 by Commsman

[OMY31T]

finally got around to purchasing some injectors for my build. bought a set of Sard 650cc injectors at a really good price they should go well with the walbro i think. got a turbosmart dual stage boost controller in, just not hooked up yet, need to get a z32 afm, and purchase my turbo, then into DMD Tuning for a nistune for a hopeful 280rwkw.

[Daleo]

Great post Dale. I read the same thing regarding warp vs build up. I have certainly suffered the build up before but thankfully seemed to have wiped themselves.

It was an IS200 that was really fussy about nut torque. Had new discs on it, only to warp quickly. Once we dealt with that and went factory on the torque via wrench, was all good.

I'm really yet to give the sumitomos/PMus a good long hammering in the Stagea, to see what they do when really hot, but they are certainly a good upgrade over stock.

Stage 2- that's the same as what is on andy's old arx I think. Worked well on that I believe.

Maybe the IS uses a thin flange on the hub; this might account for the fussiness regarding wheel nut tension.

The Sierra is what Andy was using, not sure if he was using the S1 or S2 spec. Also Craig thinks Spoolin has the same. I guess we'll see.

Also having the rear housing ceramic coated once I get it back.

Dale, now I know why you sounded confident about getting the turbo back early next week, lol.

Looking forward to the first impressions report when you get it in.

Lol, I'm pretty lucky being so close to a couple of turbo specialists; at least I can save a bit not having to freight it all over the place.

Craig was also very helpful; listening to my mad ramblings over the last few days, thanks mate.

[impul535w]

Guess you aren't coming down next Saturday then.

Sorry honey, thought I would at least give it a crack my self, no hard feelings??

[4bidn1]

finally got around to purchasing some injectors for my build. bought a set of Sard 650cc injectors at a really good price they should go well with the walbro i think. got a turbosmart dual stage boost controller in, just not hooked up yet, need to get a z32 afm, and purchase my turbo, then into DMD Tuning for a nistune for a hopeful 280rwkw.

what turbs ya going to run? Auto/ manual keep us posted

[4bidn1]

Still kicking man, trucks going well, needs to be louder tho, the twin 4" pipes are too quiet. Lol

You sold the rx4 yet?

yeah not sold yet only advertised them in sa section eoi really want them to go to a good home. and between the ute the stag and baby number 3 on the way i got enough on my plate with out contemplating the 4s

[OMY31T]

what turbs ya going to run? Auto/ manual keep us posted

i have an rs4s, so factory manual. im pretty much sold on a hypergear ATR43G3 with a .82b internally gated housing. i have an r33 aswell that i went all out on last time, and im sick of the defects, so im trying to get as much out of the stag as i can and keep it as stock looking as possible. i should easily make 250rwkw @ 18psi with what ive got according to DMD tuning but ill wait and see i guess, if it falls short, i might look at getting some poncams put in it.

my main concern atm is my clutch, its feels great but im not sure if its stock, i might have to try and have a look, it had a few mods when it came to me from japan, so im not sure what its got in it, if i need to replace it, im looking at an NPC organic single with flywheel.

Edited July 17, 2012 by OMY31T