Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

2 1/2" Suction pipe tacked together for a trial fit tomorrow, prior to purge welding.

Now we get to see how accurate my fab is. :whistling:

Nice and tight down there isn't it, I assume that's why you went with 2.5 inch?

Nice and tight down there isn't it, I assume that's why you went with 2.5 inch?

Yep, sure is. Getting your 3" version through must be a good job.

I'm running it through the path taken by the original, and it's only about 6mm wider at the critical point than the OEM one.

I was able to use standard 316L mandrel bends, and I've got a pretty straight shot at the compressor wheel. The inlet on the compressor cover is 2 1/2", so it shouldn't be restrictive.

I've also hooded the Blow Off inlet merge into the suction pipe to hopefully avoid any reversion issues.

The piece I'm looking forward to changing is the section before that, but I don't have any more material (or time to be honest) atm.

Make sure you take some pics Dale - love to see what you've done. Could it be the prototype for a future manufacturing run...? :whistling:

Edited by Commsman

You all realise you will hit airflow cut with the intake done right? Read 'close up view of the windscreen" lol.

It's all downhill from there... :)

Haha, yes, it's a slippery slope - one thing leads to another....

Make sure you take some pics Dale - love to see what you've done. Could it be the prototype for a future manufacturing run...? :whistling:

Will do; lets see if it fits first...

;)

You all realise you will hit airflow cut with the intake done right? Read 'close up view of the windscreen" lol.

It's all downhill from there... :)

Yay! Random windscreen headbutts eh? I love surprises! :woot:

Downhill or uphill? I'm hoping a little bit of bad might lead to some good. Might need to wait for my wallet to recover.

Mine's sitting at the tuner, waiting for tune: can't wait: going for a nice meaty midrange, and earlier spool-up: hopefully with the new turbo manifolds, suction kit and z32s, it should be a no-brainer. Last tune with stock manis, rb26 afm's and stock inlet, it made a safe 297awkw.

Will be interesting to see what happens if it doesn't explode... ;)

Mine's sitting at the tuner, waiting for tune: can't wait: going for a nice meaty midrange, and earlier spool-up: hopefully with the new turbo manifolds, suction kit and z32s, it should be a no-brainer. Last tune with stock manis, rb26 afm's and stock inlet, it made a safe 297awkw.

Will be interesting to see what happens if it doesn't explode... ;)

keep us posted. what turbs you running? Good luck

Been a productive weekend. Installed turbo side cam gasket, replaced in car filter and ran a 5m USB cable from tv tuner in boot to under front armrest so I don't have to go to boot all the time to change USB stick. Next thing to do is fix boot latch, fix exhaust bolt that I snapped and machine front rotors. All will be done by Friday in time for my trip to Sydney next Wednesday for world time attack next weekend. Tiltons Evo for the top honor!!

297kw atw's is impressive already. Isn't amazing how one becomes accustomed to the amount of power. Here I am with a maybe 150kw's at the wheels? and to think of doubling that and then wanting more seems almost crazy for a street car. But there it is. It only seems crazy until one becomes accustomed to it. anyhoo, i'm jealous :D gimme your cc details and i swear i'll feel better ;)

So I decided to knock up a gauge pod to mount a boost gauge on my dash at the base of the A-pillar the other day.

I started with a yum-cha '1 size fits all' generic A-pillar mount i got for cheap off eBay which i then started cutting into shape, followed by a bit of bogging & sanding

Pics:

gaugepod1.jpg

gaugepod2.jpg

And once I was happy with the shape (and many coats of hi-fill later), I painted it with some dark grey paint I had mixed up in a sample pot from Bunnings, applied with a sponge for the textured effect (the colour isnt a perfect match, but its close enough) & then stuck it to the dash with dounle sided tape

gaugepod3.jpg

gaugepod4.jpg

I'm in half a mind to re-do it so that the line at the bottom matches the line of the vent underneath it, but finding the time is the problem - that & the fact that I couldn't be arsed. :unsure:

That gauge pod is pretty cool, but did you consider trying to put it in the top vent hole? Nothing much goes in or out of there; I've had mine blocked for ages & noticed no difference.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Damn it, I was at work last night, and stayed in a room there during the storm with the car outside, but undercover, I just went downstairs and well....there was a large steel locker that has come from some place last night, it wasn't anywhere I could see yesterday, and yeap, it landed on the fraking car....of course it did..... LOL So, I'll need to take it back for paint and panel, luckily it was only the boot that took the hit, so it could have been worse Serves me right for staying at work and getting on the cans with some of the boys
    • Yeah, really happy with how it all turned out As for aftermarket lip, nah, I'm not really a fan for practically reasons on a street car that gets driven everywhere  I did have the full lower kit on my 2015 STI, but found the front lip scrapped alot, even at stock 4x4ish ride height As the NC sits now, with the lowest point of the car at 110mm, so just legal, some steep driveways and steep speed humps will still "just" scrap those little plastic OEM air dam thingies on the undertray just before the front wheels
    • Here's one I help build and tuned a decade ago, Garrett  GTX3071R Gen 1, T3 twin scroll 0.83 rear housing. Went from larger 272 cams down to smaller Tomei Poncams to help with the low end. S13 non VCT motor. Car was purpose built for the track, hence low down was the focus. Note the actual dyno chart shows lower boost, however the EBC and boost gauge showed 1.9Bar (Ignore the torque, I was young and didn't know how to set derived torque)  
    • I’m doing some side developments on SR20det S13 engines, its one my hobby cars used it to compare flow capacity of some smaller size wheels. SR20det is one of another JDM legendary engines I'm sure there are plenty of SR enthusiasts on this forum, I will share results some common turbo configurations here. a quick run down of what the car is: Wide body 180sx Type X with black top engine (blue). It has: Stock bottom end Haltech 1500 ECU 5-0 motorsports trigger kit Kelford SR20DET Beehive Spring with Titanium Retainers Kelford Cams SR20DET S13 188-B 268/272 Cams G25-660 Turbocharger in T2 .64 rear housing internally gated ARP Head studs MLS head gasket 1000CC ID injectors Walbro 450L Fuel pump Front mount cooler kit JJR’s 3 inches turbo back exhaust (its too short for the 180sx it had to be extended) Pump 98 fuel Hub Dyno tune So far made 270rwkws at 22psi full boost by 4500RPM. Engine is very knock limited hence a pretty bad looking top end. From previous experiences it seems like SR20dets are happier with bigger size turbine, some thing like a GT30 would make way better top end, but on same time response is lost. It won't be a problem with S15 VCT engines. I'll be testing alternative turbine housing, turbine wheel and possibly dump pipe options for extra flow to resolve the problem and of course E85 would resolve all the issues.            
    • Awesome writeup and details. Thanks for sharing the story so far. I can relate to parts of it with my previous car and some of the issues I had to deal with.
×
×
  • Create New...