What Have You Done To Your Stagea Lately?

[scotty nm35]

m35 owners need moar manual, then it may get easier

Meh, aint going to happen any time soon unless you want rwd skids, there is nothing wrong with the auto anyway. Why do you want easy? I like the challenge.

When the m35 ecu is 20 years old and has years of motorsport development behind it we may have more aftermarket ecu options. Until then, what's wrong with the Fcon Vpro?

[Sunkist]

Meh, aint going to happen any time soon unless you want rwd skids, there is nothing wrong with the auto anyway. Why do you want easy? I like the challenge.

When the m35 ecu is 20 years old and has years of motorsport development behind it we may have more aftermarket ecu options. Until then, what's wrong with the Fcon Vpro?

You like the challenge because no more aus post lol. Lucky f**k

[rb26stagea]

D'oh! Blocked Cat on the dyno, and boost actuators are too small! Cat was causing 8psi backpressure, apparently.

So.... New HKS actuators being fitted first thing tomorrow, cat to be freed up, and back we go to the dyno... Can't help but shudder when I try to calculate what the bill is going to be this time around: one thing has necessitated another, which has necessitated another etc etc you get the picture...

[SABBAi]

Well it looks like I wont be taking the Stagea to SuperFap. Couldn't get Tie Rod ends for it in time. No one in NSW/QLD had factory or aftermarket stock. Have 2 on order from Nissan Aus, but wont arrive until tomorrow.

Gotta take the wife's car instead.

[pbk1776]

finally got the exhaust done today -

[R33huntme]

we're talking 260rs's here

so i assumed he had a tuneable ecu already seeing as he made 270kw already

m35 owners need moar manual, then it may get easier

yep i have a nistune

[R33huntme]

D'oh! Blocked Cat on the dyno, and boost actuators are too small! Cat was causing 8psi backpressure, apparently.

So.... New HKS actuators being fitted first thing tomorrow, cat to be freed up, and back we go to the dyno... Can't help but shudder when I try to calculate what the bill is going to be this time around: one thing has necessitated another, which has necessitated another etc etc you get the picture...

You wanna talk bills get a 260rs

i just did a full rebuild,bought some second hand gtss and one has now let go now im doing what i should of done the first place a singel turbo conversion that bill is $5,000.All this after just buying my first unit im sure up s@#%t creek without a paddle

Edited August 8, 2012 by R33huntme

[Daleo]

Finally, the pics of my suction pipe.

Firstly, excuse the first pic; this is not the usual standard of my welding. Issues with the TIG at my mates workshop, resulted in oxidised weld beads, and I ended up having to MIG the Blow Off return into position. Internally the pipe was purged, so it's immaculate.

Pics of the pipe after coating; the ugly welds are not visible; but I still know they're there...

The two pipes side by side; doesn't really give much of an idea how much larger internally, and better flowing the new one is; because externally, they're almost the same size.

And in it's new home; possibly never to be seen again...

No comparison times as yet, but I'm very pleased with the end result, and it sounds great coming on boost now.

[scotty nm35]

Looks good Dale, any idea what the ceramic coat would cost?

[Commsman]

Nice Dale

I see you didn't manage to extend the top bolt thru so it can be done up from the front, like the oem intake. I doubt it is possible actually, because of the larger pipe. But it's such a hassle getting onto that bolt..

Edited August 8, 2012 by Commsman

[scotty nm35]

The bottom one is the hard one imo.

Definitely no chance to extend the bolt through with my 3 inch one, unless you ran a small pipe through. No reason to really.

[Daleo]

Looks good Dale, any idea what the ceramic coat would cost?

Cheers mate, I can find out & get back to you.

Nice Dale

I see you didn't manage to extend the top bolt thru so it can be done up from the front, like the oem intake. I doubt it is possible actually, because of the larger pipe. But it's such a hassle getting onto that bolt..

I didn't, because I ended up just using a socket headed M8 bolt. The way I oriented the pipe; it's possible, and fairly easy to locate & tighten the bolt with a ball end allen key. I just hook a small spanner over the short end of the allen key to tighten it at the end.

I had the pipe on & off several times (was a bit tired & forgot to reconnect the water lines) and it's pretty easy to access, but if I was to make another, I'd index the bend a little lower to give a bit straighter shot at the bolt.

[bigkevracer]

Awesome work Dale.

Is that 2.5" pipe?

Now I know whats holding up the front braces!

[rb26stagea]

You wanna talk bills get a 260rs

i just did a full rebuild,bought some second hand gtss and one has now let go now im doing what i should of done the first place a singel turbo conversion that bill is $5,000.All this after Ijust buying my first unit im sure up s@#%t creek without a paddle

I hear you: Mine's a conversion from RSfour. I know the wallet pain of an RB26 all too well...

That said, it's been worth every cent so far!

Looking at picking it up on the weekend hopefully.

Last tune before these shenannigans was 420hp @wheels. First time with all the new gear was 409hp but with less boost due to the enormous back pressure. Hopefully I'll gain a little top end, but I'm hoping for much earlier spool and a dirty bug chunk of midrange torque this time around.

Fingers crossed...

[Daleo]

Awesome work Dale.

Is that 2.5" pipe?

Now I know whats holding up the front braces!

Yeah, 2.5" mandrel bends. Much smoother inside than the factory piece.

Lol, a bit; it was mostly having no car and having to ride everywhere that's been the biggest delay.

They'll be going out early next week.

[bigkevracer]

No worries, all good!

Is everyone making them out of 2.5"? Might make it easier with mine, just have to change the bottom half (perhaps even from your new production run? ) and I can keep my 2.5" -> 3" second half...

[scotty nm35]

2.5 inch should be good to around 240-250kw, for anything more 3 inch would be required imo.

[Commsman]

The bottom one is the hard one imo.

The bottom one is the easiest for me. My top bolt needs a ground down spanner & each time I get 1/8th of a turn, plus I rip my forearm up as I jam it down in there.

I didn't, because I ended up just using a socket headed M8 bolt. The way I oriented the pipe; it's possible, and fairly easy to locate & tighten the bolt with a ball end allen key. I just hook a small spanner over the short end of the allen key to tighten it at the end.

I had the pipe on & off several times (was a bit tired & forgot to reconnect the water lines) and it's pretty easy to access, but if I was to make another, I'd index the bend a little lower to give a bit straighter shot at the bolt.

Now that sounds cleverer than my standard hex head bolt. I may look into a better method, but each time I put it back I tell myself not to bother since that will be the last time I need to remove/replace it. Must have doen it more than 10 times so far & it needs to come off one more time (redo turbo oil line). But this will be the last time, lol.

2.5 inch should be good to around 240-250kw, for anything more 3 inch would be required imo.

And that should suit 90% of people on here. Production run....?

Edited August 9, 2012 by Commsman

[Daleo]

The bottom one is the easiest for me. My top bolt needs a ground down spanner & each time I get 1/8th of a turn, plus I rip my forearm up as I jam it down in there.

Now that sounds cleverer than my standard hex head bolt. I may look into a better method, but each time I put it back I tell myself not to bother since that will be the last time I need to remove/replace it. Must have doen it more than 10 times so far & it needs to come off one more time (redo turbo oil line). But this will be the last time, lol.

And that should suit 90% of people on here. Production run....?

Hey Leon, I have some good news regarding your oil leak mate; check PM's

I'm a little reluctant, as I will not take money out of Scotty's pocket on this one. If Scotty is ok with it; I may look at it.

The other issue is as Scotty has said; this one will not support maximum power, and you'll need to start again if you want to shoot higher than the 240odd kW mark.

[R33huntme]

I hear you: Mine's a conversion from RSfour. I know the wallet pain of an RB26 all too well...

That said, it's been worth every cent so far!

Looking at picking it up on the weekend hopefully.

Last tune before these shenannigans was 420hp @wheels. First time with all the new gear was 409hp but with less boost due to the enormous back pressure. Hopefully I'll gain a little top end, but I'm hoping for much earlier spool and a dirty bug chunk of midrange torque this time around.

Fingers crossed...

good luck let us know what you end up getting