Jump to content
SAU Community

What Have You Done To Your Stagea Lately?

Hanso

By Hanso,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

R33huntme Community Regular

R33huntme

Posted
Posted

redo

garret 35r turbo

new thicker cooler [unsure of brand]

full 3.5inch stanless turbo back exhaust pipe

750cc injectors

Tomei poncam camshafts

and a retune

video

http://s1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/r33huntme/?action=view&current=stagea002.mp4

stagea001.jpg

  • Replies 9.3k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

chuckie
chuckie

FITTED 2 NEW BOLTS TO MY Brakes is this a MOD i CAN POST or do i need aprovall from NM#% But i may need to ask if it`s ok to POST hope to POST MORE SOON

chuckie
chuckie

Thanks for all your HELP , I guess owning a NM#% is some sort of gift , i guess with all your imput i will be happy to have a NM#% in the family & may be you will be more helpfully then, but a

chuckie
chuckie

LOOKING AT BUYING NM#% CAN I GET SOME POINTERS ON WHATS SHIT & WHATS NOT got some new bolts for Calipers

Posted Images

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Spent an hour or three pull off bits to get down to the knock sensor in the V of the block in my ARX. Computer attached to car to diagnose why it was running very rich and had retarded timimg came back with - "faulty knock sensor". Was assured by mechanic it was definitely faulty not a loose or otherwise bad connection.

Have a look at the attachment and you will see a nest made of firewall material and chewed conductors. The mouse trap is artistic licence.

Thanks to Scott I found my way down to the problem and now know a bit more about how it is put together. Hope not to have any left over parts when it goes back together tomorrow - once I repair the cable.

Looks like the sheath on the coaxial is cut at the plug end, joining it back should be enough but re shielding it would be best (somehow). Let me know if you want the spare knock cable expressed buddy.

66yostagea Grand Master

66yostagea

Posted
Posted

Hahaha... Your not the first, and won't be the last to have a mouse nest in the valley. Pesky buggers.

My neighbour had a fire in the engine bay of a Camry the nest was built on the exhaust manifold.

wolverine Grand Master

wolverine

Posted
Posted

redo

garret 35r turbo

new thicker cooler [unsure of brand]

full 3.5inch stanless turbo back exhaust pipe

750cc injectors

Tomei poncam camshafts

and a retune

video

http://s1160.photobu...t=stagea002.mp4

Have you got a plot with boost. I guess you have 260 deg poncams?

Old Gregg Enthusiast

Old Gregg

Posted
Posted

Looks like the sheath on the coaxial is cut at the plug end, joining it back should be enough but re shielding it would be best (somehow). Let me know if you want the spare knock cable expressed buddy.

I didnt open the rest of the cable up enough to see it as coaxial. From what I can tell the black insulated cable is the core. The other seems to be the shield conductor but it is bundled in clear or pale coloured insulation for that last 5cm or so. For that last bit outside the flexible conduit it just looks like 2 insulated conductors, same colours at the other end. You can see a bit of the other conductor left at the plug and the cable

Thanks for the offer I will see how it goes. Only problems may be, the quality of the solder joins as was hard to get the conductors to "tin", and the tolerance of the insulation to the heat. I may have made the cable a few cm longer so that may have a impact as well. Feels like normal again driving, will see how the first tank goes.

Maybe there should be a rodent modifications topic?

Old Gregg Enthusiast

Old Gregg

Posted
Posted

My neighbour had a fire in the engine bay of a Camry the nest was built on the exhaust manifold.

My rodent nest was made from a 100mm by 100mm area of the fire wall insulation so at least it couldn't catch fire.

Equilibrise Community Regular

Equilibrise

Posted
Posted

Installed a Koyorad full aluminium radiator, two 12'' davies craig thermo's with temp switch and custom aluminium shroud, big trany cooler and transgo shift kit to my M35 ARX over the weekend. Radiator is excellent - thermo's only need to switch on while idling after some time or high temp days every now and then. Radiator is so much more efficient. Transgo kit is absolutely fantastic!

Commsman Veteran

Commsman

Posted
Posted

Installed a Koyorad full aluminium radiator, two 12'' davies craig thermo's with temp switch and custom aluminium shroud, big trany cooler and transgo shift kit to my M35 ARX over the weekend. Radiator is excellent - thermo's only need to switch on while idling after some time or high temp days every now and then. Radiator is so much more efficient. Transgo kit is absolutely fantastic!

Nice! Did you do the Transgo install yourself?

Jetwreck Grand Master

Jetwreck

Posted
Posted

Installed a Koyorad full aluminium radiator, two 12'' davies craig thermo's with temp switch and custom aluminium shroud, big trany cooler and transgo shift kit to my M35 ARX over the weekend. Radiator is excellent - thermo's only need to switch on while idling after some time or high temp days every now and then. Radiator is so much more efficient. Transgo kit is absolutely fantastic!

There's a nice controller on eBay for about $100.

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted (edited)

Had a bit of fun today; started out bleeding some air out of my cooling system, and once I'd finished, dropped the bung for the rear bleed point down the back of the motor.

Ended up having to crawl halfway under the car to fish it out of the rear undertray...

I've also been waiting a week or so for my new HID globes, as one blew. Globes turned up this arvo, so I thought; why not?

Passengers side done, had to pop the airbox out, but no biggy. On to the driver's side, pulled out the coolant recovery bottle; globe changed, but I was using a torch by this stage.

In went the recovery bottle, and straight down went the torch.

Did it drop into the undertray? Nooooooooo; of course not! Hit the undertray, and bounced up and magnetised onto the top of the oil filter...

Had to drop half the undertray in the garage to retrieve it.

TL/DR?

Took 2 simple jobs, and turned them into epic displays of hamfistedness.

Farkin hate cars sometimes.

Edited by Daleo
wolverine Grand Master

wolverine

Posted
Posted

^^hmm reminds me of changing the battery but dropping the wing nut and having it lodge/wedge itself behind the radiator necessitating loosening the top bolts and lifting the radiator up........but first spent 15mins shaking the undertray and looking everywhere for the bloody thing.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Had a bit of fun today; started out bleeding some air out of my cooling system, and once I'd finished, dropped the bung for the rear bleed point down the back of the motor.

Ended up having to crawl halfway under the car to fish it out of the rear undertray...

Lucky mate, I dropped mine in between the heatshield and the exhaust manifold, I had to leave it there.

I now have a ball valve at the bleed point, it makes purging the air simple with a funnel screwed in. ;)

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

Lucky mate, I dropped mine in between the heatshield and the exhaust manifold, I had to leave it there.

I now have a ball valve at the bleed point, it makes purging the air simple with a funnel screwed in. ;)

Originally, that's where I thought it had gone; much swearing was done.

I saw pics of your setup; do you find the branch into the rear of the block simplifies bleeding?

Feel like making one for me? Price?

PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

Hahaha... Number of times I've been saved by one of those extendable magnets when dropping stuff. Best tool for oafs.

One I couldn't find on the shitbox, was a tps clip. Sprung off never to see again. In that case cable ties ftw.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Possible swap on R34 RB20DE NEO?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If the RB29 box in the car is a push clutch, then yes, you will need to deal with the pull clutch on the turbo box. You either buy a pull clutch and don't use the old one, or you do the things needed to convert the turbo box's clutch arrangement over to push. Which is a bit of a f**karound. "Making" a custom tailshaft is the easy part. But you will need to source the front clip yoke - the bit that goes into the output of the gearbox. These are not as easy to find. They are out there, but they don't grow on trees the way that they used to.
    • GTSBoy
      Turn signal wiring question

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Indicator bulbs are way too bright to use as a "corner marker" (we call them parking lights too). Sure. Go ahead and do it. But realise that you wil need to come up with all your own wiring to do it, as no-one will have a standard howto worked out for Skylines. It's just a matter of abandoning everything that Nissan have done and starting from scratch. You'd probably be better off retrofitting tailght/brakelight globe bases into the front indicator housings and using the taillight circuit for your corner marker and the brake light as the indicator. You'd need to work out how to kill the marker circuit while the indicator is flashing, otherwise it won't flash on-off, just bright-less bright.
    • Kapr
      Possible swap on R34 RB20DE NEO?

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • OakvilleGTR
      Turn signal wiring question

      By OakvilleGTR · Posted

      Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
×
×
  • Create New...