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^^^ Bargain price. My guy charged me a little more & I supplied the boot.

Obviously a discount was given for the thrashing test drive, lol.

Meh, he only drove it about 2 km; not much thrashing in that distance...

Nice one. How come you didn't tackle it on your own Dale?

I knew it was only going to be $100- $150, with a boot at $30-$40; it wasn't worth my while.

I'd rather save money on things I actually enjoy doing.

Like turbo changes...

damn smart call.

even though I *can* there are a few jobs I am happy to get done. CVs is definately on that list

Yep; I've heard of so many people having to rip them back out, to re-do the ties.

Not interested.

I dont blame you on the cv boot.

Anything involving packing grease or chance of spilling more fluid than a normal oil change is banned from being done in my garage.

After accidently dropping a full cressida auto trans off my bench after swapping out the dud, cleaning the mess with that gave me the CBFs with anything messier.

I installed a water to air intercooler on the stag over the last couple of afternoons. The boost response is out of this world compared to a front mount!!!

now that is a big job.....muuuch more detail needed :)

maybe a whole thread ;)

I have a w2a intercooler in a race car I never got around to finishing....

+1 i'd be interested in seeing that too

also, anyone know what its called when you mount the fmic right infront of the rad and move the rad back a bit?

i've seen it done on an s13, makes for super short plumbing!

Okay, I'll attach some photos It wasn't a big job really. What I will say is that it's still a work in progress. There are still a few things that need tidying up to get it how I want it.

The number 1 thing on the list is to install another radiator, I got the kit second hand and the radiator was unusable, so for now I turned up some adaptors and I'm just using the FMIC as the rad. It looks ugly, but it works well. I have a brand new Barina rad here to use, that's it I don't get a specific one to suit the kit.

A guard for around the back of the pump is on its way. Hopefully I'll have something made up by the weekend.

You will notice that the black 90deg reducer bend is a little deformed. This is because the bend is not sharp enough. I bought this from the local parts store as it was all they had. The blue one is from frozenboost and is a much tighter bend. I will try and track down 2 black ones, if I can't find any I will get some from frozenboost. Once I have some tighter bends I should be able to move the intercooler over enough to clear the overflow bottle. I may need to make up some custom fittings that don't sit as proud and also re rout the BOV return to give me a bit more room.

Eventually I may go to Aeroflow push on fittings and hose. I just used standard heater hose which can be a bit prone to kinking but is fine once it's in place kink free. I was a little wary of pressure buildup in the system but my concerns were unfounded. The whole system runs only slightly above ambient and you can't feel any pressure in the hoses even when hot from heat soak.

I drilled and tapped 1/8bspt holes for 2 8mm barbs. One you can see in the pics in the top right hand end tank on the cooler. The second went in the top of one of my front mount tanks. This was to allow all the air out of the system when filling. Without this all the cambers in the system would have only filled up as far as either the inlet or the outlet, whichever is higher. I run some vac lines, teed them up and attached them to the filler body.

It is a bit of a squeeze to get it in but I think it fits reasonably well.

The kit is from frozenboost.com It's their 600HP kit

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Edited by Race__24

installed my ox rear underbody brace last saturday and today installed my hdi duel stage boost controller at 10psi and 12psi settings

Why so low boost? I thought stock was 12psi, 14psi on Axis.

Needs moar boost

Yeah i wasnt too sure what the stock was. I was just trying to play it safe i guess till i install my front mount and full 3 inch exhaust. Cheers for the info

well ceramic turbo's can only handle 14psi so it's up to you what u want to load her up with i run16-18psi.

but airbox/fmic and exhaust will raise it up 4psi cos its nice and free flowing

So, the saga continues: 4th dyno run, 4th time lucky, right? Thus far, I've had a blocked cat (run no.1), dodgy gasket (run no.2) and blown the rear turbo (run no.3), all this after my you beaut PWR radiator disintegrated due to poor workmanship.

So, 4th time lucky??

Not on your life! This time it looks like we managed to crack at least 1 piston, but I guess that's the joys of modding lol!

So, back to the mech (yet again) for a fresh, forged set of internals, then we'll show it some decent boost. It lasted damn well for an internally stock engine (it was making 420hp@wheels for about 5 years or so) that had unknown history before I got it...

What this means is my budget for the Toyota 86 has taken a fatal beating, so I guess I'll find another decent daily for the next 12-18 months: looking at a Y34 Gloria/Cedric...

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