Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can the HKS take over O2 correction, using the factory fuel target table (because FCon won't let you enter a target table), with either a wideband or narrowband feedback?

You can set target AFR's with the Fcon and use the wideband input/parameters for O2 correction.

Won't stop the too rich/lean CELs though as the ecu will still receive the signal and crack the sads (not that it will affect the Fcon tune).

Ryan, if the light bothers you that much, remove the bulb and just buy a Cipher cable to check for CELs periodically.

Ryan, if the light bothers you that much, remove the bulb and just buy a Cipher cable to check for CELs periodically.

You want to see 'crack the shits' when he cuts the CEL signal wire. lol.

Take the bulb out and bypass it with a resistor. ;)

Because simply, its the best way for it to run in low load/idle areas of the map. Hot day, cold day, freezing - doesn't matter. Altitude - doesn't matter. It just corrects.

I would like to see what O2 functions the FCon has, and if they are useful. Thats all.

Meh, some scattered self tuning functions from what I have seen, not worth going down that route imo, it's mainly for dumb arse tuners to hack a tune out with before fine tuning from there.

Mine has bugger all dramas with different temps, as the tuner has set up the coolant temp and intake temp corrections fairly well. It is running a bit rich atm but that's due to me being a compulsive modifier, not the tune. ;)

Once set it shouldn't need o2 correction. I haven't run it for years.

You can do correction based on wideband in the fcon, might be worth trying just to see if it clears the code.

I don't see the issue Scotty. So you trust a 10 year old O2 sensor but not a brand new wideband?

And I thought F-Con was supposed to be the bees-knees with no CEL issues...(thought I read that somewhere a year ago).

I hope you get it where you are comfortable driving it around Ryan, CEL or not. Persistance is the key; and if you do find a good solution (with no CEL) you will be a forum hero ;) .

You can set target AFR's with the Fcon and use the wideband input/parameters for O2 correction.

Won't stop the too rich/lean CELs though as the ecu will still receive the signal and crack the sads (not that it will affect the Fcon tune).

I wonder how close the O2 correction on the F-con would be to stock ECU correction? As in, would the ECU see something good/close enough?

Ryan, if the light bothers you that much, remove the bulb and just buy a Cipher cable to check for CELs periodically.

I'll probably end up with the Cipher cable in the new year anyway, easier to sort out than a code reader and more versatile. I just don't want the light firing and masking another issue.

Because simply, its the best way for it to run in low load/idle areas of the map. Hot day, cold day, freezing - doesn't matter. Altitude - doesn't matter. It just corrects.

I would like to see what O2 functions the FCon has, and if they are useful. Thats all.

Target AFR seems to be useful, and easy to implement (which I think was what Scotty was talking about in a backhanded kind of way :P). Whether it'll replicate the stock ECU in the same kind of way I don't know, but I doubt it.

And I thought F-Con was supposed to be the bees-knees with no CEL issues...(thought I read that somewhere a year ago).

I hope you get it where you are comfortable driving it around Ryan, CEL or not. Persistance is the key; and if you do find a good solution (with no CEL) you will be a forum hero ;) .

Yeah its pretty good Leon, more research to clear random codes is required, but other than that it's good. 8k rev limit is a bit high for my liking, but other than that it's got a fair bit of shove. Be interesting to see what it does on the dyno with Scotty's upgraded spring, holding 15PSI not 7...

I wonder how close the O2 correction on the F-con would be to stock ECU correction? As in, would the ECU see something good/close enough?

Target AFR seems to be useful, and easy to implement (which I think was what Scotty was talking about in a backhanded kind of way :P). Whether it'll replicate the stock ECU in the same kind of way I don't know, but I doubt it.

I think you need to research more about o2 feedback.

The widebands play up constantly and require resetting, recal and the sensors require regular replacement. They are in no way reliable enough to use for auto afr targeting, unless you have some way of proving the sensor is accurate, like running twin sensors through some comparison circuit. It's not something a tuner would like to setup either. (hopefully you already know that from speaking to your tuner.)

The Fcon would try and hold a set AFR, as in 14.7 or whatever you target it to hold. The factory ecu wants to see 14 then 15.5, cycling every few seconds. They are in no way similar. Geddit?

Geddit. I still think there must be some way of looping the signal though...

In other news, actuator turned up today Scott, thanks! Will try and fit tonight.

Mmm it needs to go in to stop the boost spiking. Probably better to just put it in and drive it carefully than let the turbo spike to 20PSI for another couple of weeks. Especially when I'm on holidays and will be using it.

Yeah its pretty good Leon, more research to clear random codes is required, but other than that it's good. 8k rev limit is a bit high for my liking, but other than that it's got a fair bit of shove. Be interesting to see what it does on the dyno with Scotty's upgraded spring, holding 15PSI not 7...

8K a bit high? (understatement much, lol). Is that an easy figure for your tuner to set?

I would think you'd have about 2,500 rpm of 'not a lot happening' with the standard turbo.

8k is the lowest rev limit on an Fcon V-Pro

:O Ok-doky then. I guess that's why it's called the 'Pro'.

Is 8K safe for an unopened VQ25? Or should I say, safe for an extended operating life?

I still hit the limiter thanks to the auto not shifting at wot, soft limit is set at 7k, hard limit is 7,600. I don't know what Cam is on about... possibly a hard cut backup?

8k is the lowest rev limit on an Fcon V-Pro

mine shifts at 7200rpm consistantly dont hit the cut....... not sure what the cut is though might have to try that LOL

Installed the rear sway bar and raised the front by 75mm (thank god.. lol)

Ran out of time to do the front sway bar links, so I'll ask the shop to do whilst they push in the bushes tomorrow.

Got home late thanks to the wonderful folks at Adelaide Metro but still managed to remove the top half of the intake, jack the car up and onto jack stands, remove the front wheels so I can put the good ones back on and drain all the coolant out.

Hopefully I'll get home early tomorrow and get the radiator out. Think there should be more room for the thermostat once the radiator and clutch fan are out.

The coolant thermostat? It's just three bolts, no need to remove the radiator or fan.

With the o2 issue, I seem to remember Jaycar having a kit to combat this very problem. Perhaps you could look into it?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Also had a look at the Nissan JP website looks like the 400r has a slightly shorter ratio than than the regular V37 3.133 VS 2.937 which from a guy who has driven both 3.69 vs 4.11 ratios in the S15 is bugger all. Seems that the AUTO Z runs the same ratio as the 400R but can't find any info as to if its an open or LSD? More often than not the auto LSD is open
    • Do not replace the power steering lines with this stuff. If it's anything like the Chase Bays stuff it will leak and be worse than stock. The reason why the reservoir is on the LH/passenger side of the car is because that's just where the reservoir was most convenient to fit. Don't overthink this stuff. The intake/cold side of the engine is pretty busy on these cars. And again, the hardpipe is designed to be a janky power steering cooler. In theory you can replace it with a real power steering cooler but that's really only for track use where boiling the fluid is a distinct possibility. Start with the low pressure lines feeding the pump from the reservoir. Make sure there isn't a bunch of junk in the reservoir filter. Be careful to not get ATF all over the engine bay. I hate dealing with ATF spills, you can clean it up and the slightest crevice will still release more oil that can still drip over time. You also want to inspect for leaks before you make a mess and can't tell what happened. Most likely you have a leak somewhere that is allowing fluid out and air in. Failing that it's allowing air in but not fluid out. Only place I can really see that happening is on the low pressure side because the pump will pull a slight vacuum to draw fluid in. Everything after the pump is high pressure or lower pressure, approaching atmospheric by the time it returns to the reservoir.
    • I did a skidpan night at SMSP this week, it was much cheaper than $350. But yeah, you need to slap an LSD in that thing.  I put an OS Giken in the 370Z and it's f**king MARVELOUS even compared to Nissan's viscous LSD. So you're saying it's free now that it's a housing estate? 😂
    • Nah, the car seems to run exactly as it did prior, in saying this it does "seem" to be better down low, like more eager to rev, but that may be 100% placebo effect from intake noise But, I'm not worried about it at all, in the end it is a fairly low compression NA engine that has a well shrouded intake,  if it is getting hotter IAT I cannot notice anything negative performance wise from the seat of my pants thrashing it about on the street or sitting in traffic, so meh, car now now makes induction noise so I'm happy
    • Do you have an IAT sensor? It's worth checking it to see. You may be suprised how little gap you actually need to flood your engine with hot air. (I tape up my airbox for a reason) :p
×
×
  • Create New...