Jump to content
SAU Community

What Have You Done To Your Stagea Lately?


Hanso

Recommended Posts

Well I finally followed in Spoolin12's footsteps and installed the Works-Bell Paddle Shifter Kit for the M35 from Tunersgroup :rolleyes: Big kudos to Scott for installing them as he really did a fantastic job! Also a big thanks to spoolin12 for providing a well detailed 'how-to' post. Between following the how-to guide, the included instructions, and Scott's expertise, we had them installed in ~2 hrs :cheers: The fiddly bits for the most part were trying to get that damn little white plug out that controls all the shifting, and the finite adjustments for the paddles that leave no room to swing an allen key!! but apart from that a great bit of kit. Haven't really taken any of my own pics yet, I will when I get a chance. Check out Chris's pics of his install.. pretty much looks exactly same as mine.

Initial impressions are that it does feel rock solid as the main body attaches with 6 screws that bolt up to a metal backing plate behind the steering column cover. The paddles bolt up to the micro-switches via 6 allen keys on either side allowing adjustment for angle, height, and protrusion. It also feels nicely finished and of good quality with the carbon fibre paddles, and although the raw carbon looks sexy, I reckon you could almost get away with stainless steel, or maybe strong plastic to keep costs down!!

As for the downsides, I don't have any really :P I do agree with Chris that it could be a bit higher, but I think it was initially designed for the 350Z's and adapted to suit the V35/M35's. Another small niggle is that sometimes my knuckles skim the paddles while cornering, etc. which I could probably negate with some tweaking.. Gets the thumbs up from me!! :thumbsup: Would highly recommend one of these kits for our cars!!

post-1882-0-50977100-1376536406_thumb.jpg

post-1882-0-87162200-1376536416_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Finally got my engine rebuilt properly this time: went to go for run in tune, and both my rear shocks were leaking like sieves, so out went the bilsteins and in went some HSD coilovers. Have to say they are a massive improvement in ride and handling, with the added benefit of being able to take the extra 1/2 inch out of the front height, so the car now looks level as well. Was more than happy...

...until 350km into the run in when I started to have a major boost leak. Was in Byron bay at the time, so limped the car back to the Gold Coast and discovered that my spangly new HKS GR-SS rear turbo had let go due to oil starvation when the last engine popped...

In for a penny, in for a pound, so I but the billet and bought a brand new pair of 2860 -5 turbos, and finished the run in.

Off to the dyno for the power tune, but we ran out of fuel pump capacity, peaking at a very lean 458awhp, running like a dog off throttle due to externally venting bovs.

Just picked it up today with a bigger intank 450lph walbro fuel pump and recirculating bov.

Hoping to go in next week for the final tune, but not looking for too much more power: it already scares the hell out of me detuned to 430awhp!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

skyguy3804, on 15 Aug 2013 - 13:04, said:

Well I finally followed in Spoolin12's footsteps and installed the Works-Bell Paddle Shifter Kit for the M35 from Tunersgroup :rolleyes: Big kudos to Scott for installing them as he really did a fantastic job! Also a big thanks to spoolin12 for providing a well detailed 'how-to' post. Between following the how-to guide, the included instructions, and Scott's expertise, we had them installed in ~2 hrs :cheers: The fiddly bits for the most part were trying to get that damn little white plug out that controls all the shifting, and the finite adjustments for the paddles that leave no room to swing an allen key!! but apart from that a great bit of kit. Haven't really taken any of my own pics yet, I will when I get a chance. Check out Chris's pics of his install.. pretty much looks exactly same as mine.

Initial impressions are that it does feel rock solid as the main body attaches with 6 screws that bolt up to a metal backing plate behind the steering column cover. The paddles bolt up to the micro-switches via 6 allen keys on either side allowing adjustment for angle, height, and protrusion. It also feels nicely finished and of good quality with the carbon fibre paddles, and although the raw carbon looks sexy, I reckon you could almost get away with stainless steel, or maybe strong plastic to keep costs down!!

As for the downsides, I don't have any really :P I do agree with Chris that it could be a bit higher, but I think it was initially designed for the 350Z's and adapted to suit the V35/M35's. Another small niggle is that sometimes my knuckles skim the paddles while cornering, etc. which I could probably negate with some tweaking.. Gets the thumbs up from me!! :thumbsup: Would highly recommend one of these kits for our cars!!

hmmmmm.....mine arrives tomorrow I hope! :cheers:

I hear Scott was to scared to drive it!!!!

Edited by Jetwreck
Link to comment
Share on other sites

how are the gear changes? Compared to tiptrpnic

I think they feel a bit better/quicker than selecting via tiptronic.. I have however found the rev limiter a few times now as I just haven't flicked the paddle firm enough :wub:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Used paddles once

Thought it was rubbish and havnt used again, changes too slow, probably need a shift kit to fix it

But don't know if that will speed the change from when the button is pushed and when the gears actually start changing though

Anyone done it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Change it a 5k hopefully it changes by 9k lol

Change at 4.5rpm to 5rpm and I have a perfect limiter bounce with a small flame/POP.

I'm pretty sure it would be easier if I still had the standard 3.0's front and rear diff ratio's.

The best thing is being able to shift down without taking your hand off the wheel and also being able to short shift to bring the tank back in line when sliding!

Edited by Jetwreck
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Little more work!  Did some body work on the rear wheel arches and since the paint was a cheap spray job before figured I’d do something to tide me over until I wrap the car.    Colour might not be everyone’s choice but I like it and it’s only temporary, just hate having primer from the wheel arches standing out.    Keeping an eye out for a decent set of wheels to throw on now. Wheels and tires on the car are junk
    • Its likely to be 70% road 30% track usage, track usage will increase if anything. Decided not to fit it as I cant be arsed changing the bushes on my LCAs again 🤣 I did get the below back from GKTech though so they should work together     The anti-squat kit and roll center adjusters work independently since they change the rear lower control arm's angle in different ways. The anti-squat kit adjusts the angle from front to back, which impacts anti-squat values. Roll center adjusters change the angle side to side, mainly to correct geometry on cars that are significantly lowered. They might affect each other a tiny bit, but overall, you can think of them as separate.
    • What are you doing with the car? street car or race car? People get hung up on the squat of the s/r chassis rears. There is positives to the squat if a car is setup and driven correctly for it (correct ride height, spring rate, alignment, damper valving). Generally just lengthen the rear traction arm by 5-10mm and that will help the squat and bump steer too. You are also correct with the roll centre too. This too also needs to be adjustable if you start messing with suspension geometry.   Having done quiet a bit of testing on race cars this year in regards to rear squat, I've seen some big positives from it in regards to drive off corners and traction. 
    • I find I am using the MX5 for everything except long overnight cruises with Jackie, or, if picking up the kids to go somewhere, the SS has so much more room inside, and is much more comfortable if your going to be doing Hwy driving for 6-8 hours And the MX5 isn't bad in stop go traffic for a manual transmission car, whilst the clutch kit has been upgraded from stock, it is still light, and also not having a stupidly light flywheel in it helps as well, I've spent alot of time sitting on the M5, M4 and M7 stuck in traffic when plodding around the Greater Sydney Region in it Another benefit is MX5's are not really a car that gets stolen, you can pretty much park it anywhere, and it will still be there when you return
    • I can totally get why you like it for that sort of commute. I was thinking BoganDore because it's such a lazy drive, for things like stop start traffic.   I used to do over an hour in stop start shit from one side of Bris to the next, twice a day. My choice of car was larger displacement, with an auto. Basically for torque in low rpm/very low speed, and no clutch pedal. But loved a fun manual for the weekends, which the partner has (plus had the LandCruiser too for other fun drives). I now have an EV as a work car, and I tell ya what, ultimate daily driver, especially if youre out of energy, like I often am after work. I don't even need to touch the brake pedal   That said, I'm presently rebuilding the Liberty GTB to get it setup for weekend drives and track abuse! So small high revving turbo engine with 6 speed cog swapper!   But for your style of commute, I'd probably take the MX5 too!   For those choices, I'm ignoring fuel economy. Because I know how atrocious V8 daily life is for fuel from when I used to daily a manual SS, ha ha. Hence why I know I love the daily rumble of a V8
×
×
  • Create New...