Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Two most recent additions after exercising quite a bit of patience...

New trans cooler

Cooler is a replacement RX7 oil cooler.

P1010768r_zps801bf0b3.jpg

Thermostat is made by Hayden and allows for a flooded system, so no pressure loss when the thermostat opens.

P1010777r_zps65be6162.jpg

New wheels

Been waiting to complete the set of these for a while.

They are a full set of the fronts from the 370z Nismo edition. 19 x 9.5 +40 with 10mm spacers to ensure no rubbing

3ab38b0a-3a51-47d3-b4ee-f3e9f2d0d68a_zps

4435963d-3678-4942-b7b9-785e57b93d1f_zps

  • Like 1

very nice look! viewing your pics i've first time wondered- S2 M35 has another rear bumper than S1 does! have anyone fitted S2 AR-X rear bumper to S1? it seems to me it should sit in properly

The S2 has the same mounts as the S1 for the rear bumper Erop, but aren't they the same item?

My rear bumper is off the RX so it won't look great due to the flares on the ARX.

The Axis rear bumper should fit up on an ARX pretty nicely.

Edited by iamhe77

Whoever designed the location for the dipstick hole on the PNM35 should be shot. Had to use the light on my phone to find the damn thing after checking the oil in fading light tonight. :angry: I'm always paranoid I haven't put it back in properly too.

Whoever designed the location for the dipstick hole on the PNM35 should be shot. Had to use the light on my phone to find the damn thing after checking the oil in fading light tonight. :angry: I'm always paranoid I haven't put it back in properly too.

Yup, agree, but you do get used to it.

Bets thing you can do is actually spray some cleaner down there, with the dip stick in, and clean off the little triangle guide. That way it's a little easier to see, but also your not sweeping shit into the engine when you do put it in.

Two most recent additions after exercising quite a bit of patience...

New trans cooler

Cooler is a replacement RX7 oil cooler.

P1010768r_zps801bf0b3.jpg

Thermostat is made by Hayden and allows for a flooded system, so no pressure loss when the thermostat opens.

P1010777r_zps65be6162.jpg

New wheels

Been waiting to complete the set of these for a while.

They are a full set of the fronts from the 370z Nismo edition. 19 x 9.5 +40 with 10mm spacers to ensure no rubbing

3ab38b0a-3a51-47d3-b4ee-f3e9f2d0d68a_zps

4435963d-3678-4942-b7b9-785e57b93d1f_zps

Cooler is bloody huge Cam, why such a large one?

I guess it will definitely do the job.

Wheels look epic, 19x9.5 +30 has got to be the perfect width/offset for a wheel on these; they suit it perfectly. :thumbsup:

Changed back to nsw rego today. Cant say I was all that thrilled about it. To renew WA plates was 580 for 12mths, thats rego ctp the lot. It was easily over double that over here. Any one know why?

Also interestingly my WA rego said the car weighs 1415kg and I had it weighed... blue slip says 1680kg. classing it as an extra large car so you can see where the extra cost came from. what figure is correct?

Massive thanks to Alex for today :D.

Nismo thermostat, Fenix radiator and Scotty's coolant mod fitted.

I was extremely surprised with the radiator, the core size stated by fenix is 42mm and it was a direct fit no modifications needed at all... Oh sorry except had to cut the top hose a bit because thicker radiator is thick.

2014-01-21124140_zps21d19e1f.jpg

2014-01-21124206_zpsb4ecb807.jpg

This was probably

2014-01-21141151_zps25a63928.jpg

Get yo hand outta my valley!!

2014-01-21141144_zpsb32ef6bb.jpg

Coolant bypass with extra flooded valley.

Lowest temp seen was 77 degrees with the AC on, highest was 98 when idle then thermos kicked in and smashed it down around 90 without a problem.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-V35-Skyline-Heavy-Duty-Alloy-Fenix-Radiator-/181216475316?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a3157f8b4&_uhb=1

Fenix Part Number: RACE1631-FA42A.

Edited by M35woah
  • Like 1

The S2 has the same mounts as the S1 for the rear bumper Erop, but aren't they the same item?

My rear bumper is off the RX so it won't look great due to the flares on the ARX.

The Axis rear bumper should fit up on an ARX pretty nicely.

they are different, shurely

4435963d-3678-4942-b7b9-785e57b93d1f_zps

S2 one

c1c8b6u-960.jpg

S1

so i do like S2 much more) will look for S2 AR-X one)

i don't want to put AXIS one

Cooler is bloody huge Cam, why such a large one?

I guess it will definitely do the job.

Wheels look epic, 19x9.5 +30 has got to be the perfect width/offset for a wheel on these; they suit it perfectly. :thumbsup:

So bloody large because I am bypassing the radiator... plus it fit perfectly under the reo leaving a heap of room behind for future mods (although the thermostat did take up a little more than I expected).

Wheels I have been slowly collecting over the past 2 years and would grab one or two when they came up on Yahoo for a reasonable price.

The pics don't do the wheels justice and make them look dull and lifeless due to the shade.

they are different, shurely

so i do like S2 much more) will look for S2 AR-X one)

i don't want to put AXIS one

Yes, those two are different but what I am saying is that the S2 ARX has the same rear bumer as the S1 ARX as you can see in the link below

http://www.goo-net-exchange.com/usedcars/NISSAN/STAGEA/700123019430131225002/index.html

S1 Axis and S2 Axis also share the same rear bumper.

I guess you could put a S2 RX or Axis S rear bumper on and have extra bulges added so that it matches up with the flares on your ARX.

  • Like 1

Great to hear, the Mishimoto radiators are a pain to fit. So the thermos went back on fine?

Good price too.

kinda, it sits OK, probably could have trimmed some minor areas of it, but the temps I was getting and how quickly it dropped during idle I don't think I'd ever worry about it.

Top corner of the shroud where a bolt goes through has broken off anyways, but arex HKS fixed it easy.

Edited by M35woah

Got a screw in my rear right. f**ked around putting pressure in it just to get to work until i could get into a local tyre shop near work.

Paid $100 to get 4 new tyres I supplied fitted to my 19" wheels on the Stag and balanced. :D

Got a screw in my rear right. f**ked around putting pressure in it just to get to work until i could get into a local tyre shop near work.

Paid $100 to get 4 new tyres I supplied fitted to my 19" wheels on the Stag and balanced. :D

LOL! Read that completely wrong. I thought you paid $100 for a set of tyres!! I thought "Do you even grip?".

I got a screw in one once, drove on it for a while just tightened it when it was leaking lots lol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My plan is to go the pink option. But still add the 4th fitting near the oil cap and just cap it off for now.  That way I can add 2 extra to the sump and have 4 dedicated breathers/drains if I ever remove the sump for any reason. 
    • Oh, yeah, look - here's the thing. You always replace the tensioner when you're going in there to replace a belt....under normal circumstances. You want to make sure it is good and safe, and that you don't create a reason to take the front of the bloody motor apart again. But in this case, OP is replacing a belt that has aged out on time, not usage. The belt is a million miles away from aging out on usage. The belt gets a time "limit" merely because it is made of rubber and can degrade naturally. The tensioner? Not so much. I reckon it could last forever on the current usage pattern. So I reckon if the thing is going to continue to get used at the same rate, replacing the tensioner is somewhat gratuitous. Would I replace it if I was doing it on my car right now? Hell yes. Because my car does 10-20 thousand kays a year. So it's all going to be the same thrashedness. Would I YOLO it on OP's car. More than likely.
    • I dunno. I think any one of those from each side to sump is probably enough. Remember - this is about creating a path for gas flow up from the sump to the cam covers. That gas flow then has to leave via the lines to the catch can. There's probably little point in providing 100% more capacity from sump up to covers cf. what you have from there to the catch can. Put in the 3 convenient ones? Any which way that you see fit. That'd be my thoughts.
    • Getting holes drilled into to cam covers and AN10 fitting welded on. My sump has 2x AN10 fittings on it already. These are the options I have come up with that can be done without needing to remove the sump to add more fittings. In all options front of passenger side cover connects to VCT head drain bung (i know this isn't the best spot but my feeling is it must do something). Option 1 (pink). The back of each cam covers gets its own line to sump. Option 2 (blue). The back of each cam covers are linked and share a line to sump. The front of drivers side gets its own line. Option 3 (Black). Drivers side are Tee'd together and share a line to the sump. Passenger side rear gets its one line to the sump.
    • I'd be surprised if Nissan doesn't mention it in the manual as it seems unlikely that a tensioner is going to last 200,000km.
×
×
  • Create New...