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Scotty - you mean Me?

back then I was working, and obviously wasnt worried as cash wasnt a problem....

Hindisght is great, but who knew my health would have gone downhill to the extent that it did.

What I shouldnt have done was sell the stock parts off.

Point of worrying now is Id have to strip it if I got defected, and sell it in parts. Not easy to do when youre not physically capable.

Or you could have left the stock parts there and avoided the defect situation all together. I have seen 430kw on the stock manifolds and 500kw through a stock panel filter with the lid modified. Stealth power is the goal... I just wish I could explain it to more owners before they spend big on race parts for the street.

Welcome to the nanny state syndrome. We have been putting up with it in Vic for years.

  • Like 1

I just did this wire mod, what do you guys think ?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U1sGB5wzTQI&list=UUy8-_O-nFlyB3bc8f3ywJsg&feature=share

Edited by poohkies
  • Like 1

So since installing my coilovers I'm having the same problem as ghost. Wheel and tyre hit the coilover now on compression. The gap is a couple mm different on each side which is weird.

IMAG0210_zps5c4d9124.jpg

IMAG0211_zpsf78889b7.jpg

I've raised the back but it still does it on big bumps. will have to figure something out.

all fun and games when you want "fitment"

So since installing my coilovers I'm having the same problem as ghost. Wheel and tyre hit the coilover now on compression. The gap is a couple mm different on each side which is weird.

IMAG0210_zps5c4d9124.jpg

IMAG0211_zpsf78889b7.jpg

I've raised the back but it still does it on big bumps. will have to figure something out.

all fun and games when you want "fitment"

Quite. Your rims are clearly too wide. You will get the same look with narrower rims with different offset or spacers.

So since installing my coilovers I'm having the same problem as ghost. Wheel and tyre hit the coilover now on compression. The gap is a couple mm different on each side which is weird.

IMAG0210_zps5c4d9124.jpg

IMAG0211_zpsf78889b7.jpg

I've raised the back but it still does it on big bumps. will have to figure something out.

all fun and games when you want "fitment"

keep driving it, it will self clearance itself after a while...lol

cheers

darren

Did a quick touch up on the tune today, didn't lean on it as my laptop (with the program & tune files) was having connectivity issues with the AEM Fic-8 ecu. Laptop is ancient and kids have kicked it once too often in the car.

Low boost tune @14psi made 247kw. Plenty left in it, but putting up for sale so decided not to push it.

Would have been nice to max it all out, but nevermind.

haha yeah right darren,

attachicon.gifimage.jpg
18x10+15 with a 265 at -1.2deg camber had those on with the cusco's too till I put the jtc's in

That's weird, I've got 9.5 +12 with 245 45. no camber adjustment in the back. it looks like as the camber increases on compression it hits. So if add some more positive it might fix it.

So since installing my coilovers I'm having the same problem as ghost. Wheel and tyre hit the coilover now on compression. The gap is a couple mm different on each side which is weird.

get a big washer from bunnings and space out the bottom mount or get a longer bolt and use more washers.... if yours is an auto/auto converted to manual ( r33 rwd rear strut )

get a big washer from bunnings and space out the bottom mount or get a longer bolt and use more washers.... if yours is an auto/auto converted to manual ( r33 rwd rear strut )

manual rear cradle so no can do.

troy that looks good, not too sure on the chrome strip though, might work

And thinking about also doing the chrome strip that goes around the car.

I've painted the grill matt black too but wouldn't get rid of the chrome strip as it will make the car look more dumpy if you know what I mean...

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    • I think my main complaint with your idea is that there is a veneer of idealism spread across it. You want the simple numbers to make it easier, but all they will do is make it easier for someone to come to the wrong conclusion because the fine details will kick them in the nuts. As it is right now, the tiny bit of arithmetic is NOT the obstacle to understanding what will fit and what will not fit. The reality of trying it is what determines whether it will fit. If you had a "standard rule" that R34 GTT guards have that magic 100mm space from the hub face to whichever side you were worried about, and someone said "excellent, this wheel is only 98mm in that direction, I'll just go spend $4k on them and jam them on my sick ride".....they would just as likely find out that the "standard rule" is not true because the rear subframe is offset to one side by a fairly typical (but variable) 8mm on their car and they only have 92mm on one side and 108 on the other.
    • It still combines inches with mm, especially when you have .5 inches involved, and mm and inches that can go in either direction. This would give a clear idea on both sides of the rim, right away, with no arithmetic. Even better if somebody gives you the dimensions of the arch of multiple cars. i.e GTR may be 125mm, a A80 Supra may be 117mm, or something along those lines. Yes, you can 'know' that going from a 10in rim to a 10.5in rim with the same offset moves both sides about 6mm, but you still have to 'know' that and do the math. Often it's combined. People are going from 9.5 +27 to 10.5 +15. You may do the math to know it, but if it was going from (I had to go look it up to be sure) 241mm/2 - 27 - 93.5mm from the center line to (more math) 266/2 - 15 (118mm) from the center line. Versus 93mm vs 118mm. It's right there. If you know you have a GTT with 100mm guards you can see right away that one is close to flush and the other absolutely won't work. And when someone says "Oh the GTR is 120mm" suddenly you see that the 10.5 +15 is about perfect. (or you go and buy rims with approximately 118mm outward guard space) I think it's safe to say that given one of the most common questions in all modified cars is "How do offsets work" and "How do I know if wheels will fit on my car" that this would be much simpler... Of course, nothing will really change and nobody is going to remanufacture wheels and ditch inches and offset based on this conversation :p We'll all go "18x9+30 will line up pretty close to the guards for a R34 GTT (84mm)" but 'pretty close' is still not really defined (it is now!) and if you really care you still have go measure. Yes it depends on camber and height and dynamic movement, but so do all wheels no matter what you measure it for.
    • But offsets are simple numbers. 8" wheel? Call it 200mm, near enough. +35 offset? OK, so that means the hub face is that far out from the wheel centreline. Which is 2s of mental arithmetic to get to 65mm to outer edge and 135mm to inner. It's hardly any more effort for any other wheel width or offset. As I said, I just close my eyes and can see a picture of the wheel when given the width and offset. That wouldn't help me trust that a marginal fitment would actually go in and clear everything, any more than the supposedly simple numbers you're talking about. I dunno. Maybe I just automatically do numbers.
    • Sure! But you at least have simple numbers instead of 8.5 inches +/mm, relative to your current rims you do maths with as well, and/or compare with OEM diameter, which you also need to know/research/confirm..
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