Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I notice the handling more with these than with the sway bars.

Yes ive run just sway bars, just braces, both brace and bars and just front sway bar. (Whiteline, superpro & unnamed adjustable front bar). So this isnt just a 'ive thrown the bars on and thats the answer it should be' kinda answer.

Just got the chance to finally take the 35 out following the 2nd 2nd brace install. Very impressed with the way the rear of the car is now tight in and out of cornering. Noticed more traction and control delivery and almost nil body roll. Very happy

  • Like 1

Todays job was replacing the rear door. (As you can see by the photos nissan dont paint the section where the rear door hinges are so rush accumulates). For all those saying you are 'no rust' i doubt it.1e5c2fa9f60418ff66a2acf10bae28cc.jpg7dd3648b027635b73edb3f7dd2d27b8f.jpge77a1a16705966f3e1f3345bfd7379e6.jpgc6c464692f9397b71e0499339b67cca8.jpg8310ae655b28e1b304b101156e3812bd.jpg457cc47d2c220e2c3ff8a98e4cd1a400.jpg

You should cut out the electric lock, button switch , and rear wiper motor and keep for spares.

I have a spare tailgate, I think you have to cut the composite to get to them.

Edited by conan7772
added info
You should cut out the electric lock, button switch , and rear wiper motor and keep for spares.

I have a spare tailgate, I think you have to cut the composite to get to them.

I currently have up for sale the spare rear glass, latch motor, door button, hatch seal rubber & latch motor control box. Far ahead of you.

And no you dont need to cut anything to get them out. Just undo the bolts and get them on the right angles and they will come out. I also plan on deleting the rear wiper just need to find a delete plug im happy with.

Did this a few months ago but only just getting around to posting. Is it just me that gets lazy during winter?

Started with a cracked radiator which I tried and failed to fix with J-B Weld to try and keep me on the road.

2016-05-22 22.40.23.jpg

Radiator was way past it's used by date so I got a thicker factory replacement.

2016-05-22 22.40.04.jpg

2016-05-25 17.23.42.jpg

While the coolant was drained I thought I'd have a crack at my own take on the coolant bypass mod.

2016-05-25 18.06.37.jpg2016-05-25 19.19.41.jpg

2016-05-25 19.33.30.jpg

A few joins but no leaks so far after a few months. Summer will be the big test.

 

  • Like 3
15 hours ago, datmoo said:

Did this a few months ago but only just getting around to posting. Is it just me that gets lazy during winter?

Started with a cracked radiator which I tried and failed to fix with J-B Weld to try and keep me on the road.

 

Radiator was way past it's used by date so I got a thicker factory replacement.

 

2016-05-25 17.23.42.jpg

While the coolant was drained I thought I'd have a crack at my own take on the coolant bypass mod.

 

WTF is that how thin these Radiators are? The factory replacement, is that from Scotty?

8 hours ago, Cowboy1600 said:

Used my sucker to go pick up the latest toy purchase other day.

I love my Stag.  Fast and versatile!

 

IMAG0377.jpg

IMAG0378.jpg

Love it, what sort of condition is it in? Good ones are pretty much impossible to find these days

9 hours ago, Cowboy1600 said:

Used my sucker to go pick up the latest toy purchase other day.

I love my Stag.  Fast and versatile!

Awesome to see another 1600 saved! Maybe we should start up a Stagea and 1600 owners forum. I think there's a few of us out there.

  • Like 2
2 hours ago, Duncan said:

Love it, what sort of condition is it in? Good ones are pretty much impossible to find these days

Really good condition.  Very little rust.  I thought it must have been resto'ed at some point in it's life but the guy I bought it from has owned it for over 30 years and it hasn't been.

It's got an L20 running straight LPG and a T03.  5 speed stumpy, alloy flywheel and custom built clutch, R180 LSD, disc rear, adjustable rear trailing arms, front volvo 2 spot and 298mm discs, bilsteins all round, front and rear sway bars.  Lots or good stuff.  Needs some panel damaged fixed, the few rust spots taken care of, a ton of rewiring done and a good clean.  Once that's done I'll get the gas bottle recertified or replaced, remove the turbo and get it running on straight gas then get it through rego.  After that the turbo will go back on.  It's currently 180ish rwhp with NA like response which is plenty for me.  I don't want massive HP.  I think you lose the essence of what these things are when you push big HP through them.

  • Like 3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No intention of driving the car the way it's set up now, just wanting to make sure I haven't made any mistakes along the way so that the tune can go smoothly, I don't want to waste anyone's time with stupid issues. And of course I intend to get it towed to the dyno in a completed state 😅 I have the base fuel pressure with the vacuum disconnected set at about 40psi, which I believe is at least relatively close to stock fuel pressure, maybe I'll have a fiddle with the reg and see what happens. For all I know I could be wasting my time with this and I should just plumb it in and see what the tuner reckons. I just find it a bit strange that it seems to be under so much load just free revving, but maybe that's just a result of the turbo slowing down the exhaust gasses and making a restriction in the flow, with no boost to compensate.
    • The boy just hit up google translate and it worked a treat, he said step one was "please urinate with precision and elegance", he then sent me the correct translation  I get some new loctite for the small fixtures tomorrow and get some "dort" going after that 🤣
    • Right, so is the fuel pressure the same as it was previously? If not, well, it's not going to work well. I can understand the theory I assume you are going for, which is: "Run it N/A, and if I have the original AFM, and same amount of fuel and intake air as previously, the fact there's a turbo in my exhaust should still make it run" Which it... might? Provided you don't actually change how much air or fuel is going into the car.. or getting out. But if you have changed that, all bets are off. What is the purpose to even have the car run this way? To get it to a tuner? And if the goal is to limp it to a tuner, you're still going to what - plumb up a whole intercooler system and new intake in the parking lot out front before your tune......?
    • Haha yea it's a bit of a weird setup at the moment, just wanted to make sure I sorted out any headaches before dyno day. At the moment I've changed the exhaust manifold, turbo and downpipe, 460lph fuel pump and rising rate reg as well as the previously mentioned headstuds and gasket. The nistune was already mapped for the car as it was and drove around for a few months no worries. The plan is to run flex fuel hence the big pump, which I've wired direct to the battery through a relay to avoid voltage issues.
    • Um. Was the ECU the same as the one previously there? I know R33's needed R32 GTST ECU's or other tomfoolery to run Nistune. This is such a wild setup. Most people would plumb in the turbo then not drive the car (i.e tow it to a tuner). What's actually changed since it last ran?
×
×
  • Create New...