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Take your word for that info Cam. There wasn't a great deal of info on the listing. Is that info straight from mines?

You probably already know but I left the wiring diagram books with Aaron for you to collect and borrow.

Yes, straight from Mine's, via alot of back and forth with Jesse (sorry Jesse :)).

Thanks for the diagrams, hope to get them from Aaron soon.

Yes, straight from Mine's, via alot of back and forth with Jesse (sorry Jesse :)).

Thanks for the diagrams, hope to get them from Aaron soon.

in my car. if scotts not working tonight ill drop em at his.

i doubt it, if it detects connection while the brake is applied theres not point in having it.its best and easiest to have a momentary switch

I was thinking for the guys(me included) that aren't worried about stalling the car up, this might work. This way it would connect/reset when brake applied then disconnect when brakes released and throttle limit deactivated and away you go. Or am I missing something? I'm a little new to electrics/wiring.

I was thinking for the guys(me included) that aren't worried about stalling the car up, this might work. This way it would connect/reset when brake applied then disconnect when brakes released and throttle limit deactivated and away you go. Or am I missing something? I'm a little new to electrics/wiring.

lol your missing something.

This also restricts throttle a few moments after braking, so if you come out of a corner, and want to give it a little squirt, it will be the same as stock.. which kind of defeats the purpose.

its not so much the knowledge of electronics.. this ecu is just fkn smart!

but who would go through the trouble of that? lol if commsman doesnt, i dont think anyone will.

Haha, I think you are confusing me with someone who is genuinely SMART lol. But you're right, even if I knew how to build circuits that took all these inputs into consideration, I still wouldn't bother when a switch is so simple & effective.

It would be a different story if the fault code was thrown after 30 minutes or 15kms, but I've had mine open circuit for many days at a time & never caused an error.

but who would go through the trouble of that? lol if commsman doesnt, i dont think anyone will.

out of pure lazyness. plus you never have to worry about seeing the CEL for that issue.

ill check the jaycar kits for something like that. i need to get a few 12v to 12v regulated power supplies for some stuff im gonna throw in the car :)

i got a knock in the front steering. either i didnt do something up tight enough (crappy rattle gun) or a tie rod end is on the way out. i hope the spare is in decent nick!

i got a knock in the front steering. either i didnt do something up tight enough (crappy rattle gun) or a tie rod end is on the way out. i hope the spare is in decent nick!

My theory is (& it's just a theory):- If you leave everything stock & sloppy - no knocks & bangs. As soon as you start adding swaybars, coil overs etc, all the extra stress buggers the rubbers/bushes/tie rod ends etc. It's a vicious cycle this upgrade game.

So just replace everything with nolathane?

I don't think it's that easy. On the 1600 I have replaced all the rubber with nolathane, but have been very careful to base my replacements on the density of the urethane and how it correlates to the rubber.

Some urethane is too hard, and you have to specify a softer version. The other difference between rubber and urethane is the compression. Urethane is more linear and rubber is more exponential. (I think I got that around the right way? - it's been a while).

Also you have to make sure you grease them up properly otherwise they will squeel and graunch.

I am running SuperPro on everything except for the diff moustache bar (Whiteline) and Nolathane on the castor bar/radius rods. These particular bushes available (not the brand) are softer in durometer than the superpro bushes. Fortunately I have a friend who used to work in the automotive industry and he had a fair amount of experience in bushings for driveline.:thumbsup:

depends on how much??

fixed the knock in the rear suspension, turns out the locking ring hadnt been done up and the strut was slowly unscrewing itself. problem solved! also reset the rear height, gave the springs some preload, so much better now. gotta do the fronts next.

i think the front knock is actually a groan and its the new poly bushes are not greased up enough :(

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