Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Then I have to ask the obvious question... Why are you running one?

I have plans to track mine, and at nearly 3 times the stock power I was a little worried. Now I have the sandwich plate fitted with temp and pressure sensors, I can see stable temps on the road but give it a squirt and they shoot up.

Because our car was not really designed as a ..... Track bitch......more of a family cruiser.....had they done a sports version of the m35 like the 260rs.......well we have all seen the 380rs haven't we!!!

Lol. Well I worked out my two choices, the Stillen and Nismo, would both be about the same, so I went to order the cheaper one (Stillen) only to get reamed on freight. So ordering the Nismo in the morning.

Cheers for the advice Craig! :thumbsup:

got my car tuned and made an appallingly low 306hp on 14psi, thanks hypergear for ripping me off.

306hp @ 14psi?

Is that AWD HP too (include losses)? Through an automatic (more losses)?

I'd say that's F&*ken awesome!

It's like 400HP at the motor!

If the AFR's are sweet and within limits, and the torque curve is flat what are you complaining about?

I'm saying that is maximum boost. The turbo has a spike to 20 then fall back to 14psi.

Any ideas as to why the turbo is dropping boost? I mean apart from the turbo is crap. I had a similar problem, turned out to be the cat was too restrictive and choking the exhaust flow.

306hp is a good result for 14psi though.

I'm happy with the figure, it's back to stock power. But considering I bought a turbo rated to 375hp I'm unhappy with the result. I'm wondering if it's a wastegate issue now.

Stock is more like 200hp/150kw. So you've got a descent increase over that.

If you can get the boost control issue sorted I think you'll be happy. Most larger aftermarket turbos don't come into their own until up around the 20psi area.

Started changing the dump pipe on the M35 this arvo, bloody hard to get into the top studs. 2 bloody studs snapped rant.gif

Rang Nissan and NO studs in the country, ex japan for bout $125 for set of 5 studs with nuts. I was hoping the rb25 studs would be the same but they said they are a different part number.

Does anyone know if a stud is available from anywhere else? Im getting Captain Thread to go to my mates workshop, where the car is stuck on the hoist for the weekend, to remove the busted studs monday arvo.

lilcrash - hypergear turbos are meant for peak power at over 19psi. I suggest fitting a heavy duty actuator that is rated to 'round 17psi (garret, gcg, or talk to stao and haggle for his HD turbo actuator. Slight retune after fitting & the 20psi boost spike will only taper off a couple psi. You'll gain another 50rwhp I believe.

I went from a 1bar HKS on the gt3076 to a 18psi garret actuator and came away with a decent 20kw increase. You want an actuator rated as close as possible to the boost you wish to run.

Heavy duty actuator rated around 17-19psi will unlock the turbos TRUE power potential.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To be fair passengers who aren't silly and have been in proper fast cars have often been pretty impressed once you hit 4th gear   
    • I suppose that's true. Barring almost any situation, I'll never sell so what the market does is kind of irrelevant to me. It's possible I'd make most of my money back. That spreadsheet I mentioned? Maybe I could make back more than what the car's total costs thus far are, but the parts and all that is possibly a different story... Thanks for reading. It was certainly a good moment and just makes the ties to the car that much stronger. It's exciting that the option will be there to bring it over, however I have some plans with a shop that may end up keeping the car there longer, not sure. Coupled with the fact I want to move there and haven't solidified any path yet. So in a way, it feels like I'm in a limbo state that is uncertain; time will tell.
    • No worries, everything worked out in the end. I just wanted to make the point that it doesn't matter where it comes from (I.E Australia), it can be broken or improperly built. I would still purchase from these companies in the future. B2R - Not certain how that finished, this was on a car I wired a few things and street tuned. I know the owner ended up shipping the motor back to Australia for investigation. Hopefully some of it is covered under warranty.  Turbosmart - I always pressure test everything that goes on my car. It's a habit from my career in oil and gas. I run two 40mm's and both had major leaks from the actuator to exhaust portion through the shaft. I returned both, they shipped me back two and one was leaking and the other had a 38mm top (40mm gate with 38mm actuator cap, no idea how that happens). Eventually after a lot of back and forth I found myself with two non-leaking gates. I believe this happens a lot more then people would like to believe but you would never know if you don't pressure test them prior to installation. Crank Motorsport - Issued a full refund and let me keep the seat rails. I turned them into scrap metal for other projects. GKTech - Shipped me out a replacement and asked that I modify it as per my idea and that they would do the same for a future revision. ATP - Can just needed a large shim to bolt up properly.  Haltech - They started an actual proper Beta channel for firmware's a few months back and stopped using the general public for testing. I'm now much happier.  Speedtek - f**k Speedtek. I would love to watch them burn.     
    • I've got a Turbosmart wastegate, ATP catch can, many GK Tech parts and Haltech everything. Everything's been perfect, sorry to hear your experience wasn't the same
×
×
  • Create New...