Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  On 23/10/2011 at 10:21 AM, bigkevracer said:

You getting a cat in there somewhere?

I still have the stock dump pipe which has a cat in it.

  On 23/10/2011 at 10:48 AM, jasevr4 said:

Does the M35 chuck a CEL if you have a decat pipe? Need some sort of resistor or something?

There is no wiring to the front pipe cat, no code has been thrown yet though I do still have the stock dump with cat

Edited by Ross

Im unsure if the dump has a Cat sensor, never really had a good look in there due to lack of space.

Already having a cat back in place, installing the front pipe gave a noticeable mid range power increase. Exhaust noise level is slightly up on idle and power but nothing huge.

The most notable change to the noise is the idle now has a slight "throb" to it, much like many RB engined cars.

Aren't we all funny bastards tonight?! :nyaanyaa:

I'd think you'd be better off getting rid of the cat in the dump pipe, going with a nice new dump that actually flows, and putting a high flow cat in the Kakimoto pipe?

And no Jase, no cat sensor! :banana:

Nope, no sensors after the cat, just the narrowband right after the turbo. Now you need one of my dump pipes :whistling: although the Kakimoto has a restriction at the front flange you will need to enlarge...

I can do one for $450 in stainless with heat wrap, lower gaskets and bolts, o2 bung etc. You will need to source some shorter studs or shorten the stock ones.

Let me know, im making a few up this week. :thumbsup:

  On 23/10/2011 at 10:42 PM, scotty nm35 said:

I can do one for $450 in stainless with heat wrap, lower gaskets and bolts, o2 bung etc. You will need to source some shorter studs or shorten the stock ones.

Let me know, im making a few up this week. :thumbsup:

lol a few?

  On 23/10/2011 at 1:44 PM, scotty nm35 said:

Nope, no sensors after the cat, just the narrowband right after the turbo. Now you need one of my dump pipes :whistling: although the Kakimoto has a restriction at the front flange you will need to enlarge...

This is excellent news!

Anyone that is running the Neo Racing oil - are you using the Platinum 10w40 or the Gold? The service interval difference is big but I don't do that many km's and will change the oil well before 40,000kms anyway.

  On 24/10/2011 at 2:21 AM, jasevr4 said:

Anyone that is running the Neo Racing oil - are you using the Platinum 10w40 or the Gold? The service interval difference is big but I don't do that many km's and will change the oil well before 40,000kms anyway.

yeah, I have. Good stuff.

40,000 is a bit optimistic though. 12-15,000 or normal driving is plausible though.

Supposedly if you change the filter at least 3-4 times during the 40,000K's it should be alright.

Me, I think I'll just stick with a "full" synthetic for $55 and change every 7,500k's.....

  On 24/10/2011 at 2:32 AM, wht510 said:

Supposedly if you change the filter at least 3-4 times during the 40,000K's it should be alright.

Me, I think I'll just stick with a "full" synthetic for $55 and change every 7,500k's.....

But you'd be changing the filter without changing the oil... would you really want to do that?

I think I'd rather stick with my 5000k changes, depending on what the Motul looks like when I drop it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's nothing that some paddle pop sticks and extra cable ties can't fix.
    • Hey guys, so Golebys has good prices on Bosch injectors, and also sell an adaptor to go from 1/2 length injector to standard with the Nissan 10.5mm top seal.  Does anyone know if that adaptor is to suit the 14mm or 11mm injector tops?  And re. The bottom seal, to suit my standard RB20 intake, would I be right in saying I can just slip the 14mm square section O ring over the bottom of the new injector and done? Thanks in advance guy, Cheers, Rowdy
    • F my life. I was changing the oil on my R32 GTR today as usual and ran into a bit of a snag. I drained the oil out and was getting ready to finish the job by tightening the drain plug, however The stupid magnetic oil drain plug snapped in half, right at the magnet part. After about an hour of trying to remove it, I used a drill bit, which unfortunately pushed the magnet all the way into the pan, and just leaving the hollow threaded part of the bolt remaining. I was able to remove the hollow portion of the bolt from the oil pan with some pliers but the magnet is still in there.  So, the question is, should I drop the oil pan to get the magnet piece out, or is it okay to leave it in there? I really dont want to drop the pan, i'm about to go nuts.  PSA: Do NOT buy a BLOX magnetic drain plug. This is the one i had.    https://bloxracing.com/products/magnetic-oil-drain-plug-m12x1-25mm?variant=37131252859052&country=US&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw47i_BhBTEiwAaJfPpgti1D2JwO7TDuMpXuqeQPCuIQSAfwxpWQH5rF9MD7sm5SCZDWLR_RoC_YoQAvD_BwE    
    • I actually have an aftermarket hanger, the detschwerks x1 hanger, but my dw420 has never really sat in it correctly, good to know I can just modify it a bit to suit. Yeah cheers man will definitely have a play with it and hope it solves my dramas.
    • Seriously though, it's the Shaft Autoservice high mount rear spoiler: https://az-style.shop/items/5ffaad5a72eb464137a6edb1
×
×
  • Create New...