Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looks sweet.

Can I ask, are your guards rolled, do they scrub at that height?

Looking at (when i sell my Pupra anyway)19x9.5s at around +15-+20 but that offset looks pretty spont on....

I assume you have a manual too.

Also Sika'd my side skirt brackets properly today....

My guards are rolled and they don't scrub. The plastic inner guard lining hangs down a bit in the front, so occasionally it rubs on that, but nothing major. I really need to get out there and refit it!

It's an auto and runs a 15mm bolt on spacer up front. If it was a manual, I'd be going for 10" +15. That way it gets rid of the need for the front spacer and would still fill out the rear guards.

So we have had this stagea for about 5 years now and have never posted it here hehe it has been a great car for my wife, it is her daily driver and had minimal dramas. It is a 99 RS rwd auto yer baby :-)

Ok so my wife and I just had our first baby so while she could not drive I decided to give the old girl a birthday.

I fitted some BC V1 coil overs, new tie rod ends, new front pads, a service, replaced the leaking inlet cam lip seal and fitted a Thule luggage box for holidays. I know it's not as racy as some on here but this car serves us well and it is now kited out ready for another holiday.

e2285e80.jpg

I think it looks kinda cool with the luggage carrier up top!

Those guys are legends. The fact that you can walk in say "M35 Stagea" and they know what you're on about is pretty cool. :thumbsup:

That's pretty cool. FTGully Nissan used to be like that.

washed and polished, looks like new again. :yes:

washj.jpg

wash2.jpg

It looks very nice! I like it!

Half way through replacing the front left wheel bearing, I hope to have it finished tomorrow after work. Just need my mate to press off the old bearing from the hub and press on the new bearing.

Fitted the Cusco front camber arms to my S1 yesterday set to max negative camber. Don't know what that is yet -still to get wheel alignment. Not recommended for street use - makes it very tip toe but seems to help in cornering. Got them mainly to take max advantage of my slicks on the track.

Those guys are legends. The fact that you can walk in say "M35 Stagea" and they know what you're on about is pretty cool. :thumbsup:

It was a bit different 3 yrs ago when I went looking for a spare key for the M35. I must admit the guy did a lot of computer work to find what I was after. Top place.

I use Grand Nissan down south, the spare parts guys are always helpful when it came to any of my imports. I think it's just a matter of finding a dealer with a spare parts department that are not lazy.

I use Grand Nissan down south, the spare parts guys are always helpful when it came to any of my imports. I think it's just a matter of finding a dealer with a spare parts department that are not lazy.

i wish i had that luxury up here in townsville, we have one nissan dealer, and i went in and asked about towbars when i first got mine (before i read about the max ones) and his answer was 'stagea? that's an import correct?' my response 'yup', him 'we don't have anything to do with any parts for any imports whatsoever' i just walked out. didn't even reply to him

Driving on Sunday, I hit one of those stupid kerb things on the left hand side as you go through a round about. Obviously just not far right enough.

Pulled over, checked it, and I'd hit the front wheel hard enough to tear a flap in the sidewall, but it was holding together, still had air in it, so off I drove, and left it, but checked it a couple of times. Put about another 50k on it.

Go to drive it tonight and the tyre has definately lost more air, but on closer inspection I've shaved the underside of my front bar, hit the rear wheel worse (and taken a fair chunk of metal out in a couple of spots) and damaged the back part of the side skirt.

I seem to remember the ATTESSA system won't let me replace one tyre, I have to replace all. I've also got to check that the wheels are still straight, organise a wheel alignment (which I was already doing), and have to get the skirt fixed (which doesn't look like it'd be that hard a job).

So what did I do to my Stagea? Hurt it. But I'll call the insurance company tomorrow and ask them what the go is.

Yeah thinking about it. Planning on getting wheels soon so don't want to go crazy but it's got the original jap tyres on it still.

Guess if I put four decent tyres on gives me time to work out what im going to do, and finish the current mods.

you'll be fine just replacing 2 tyres (I don't beleive in replacing just 1...). Attessa allows for something like 3-5% difference in diameter before it detects slip to allow for this.

Even different brands in the same size can have variance in actual sizes.

380990_2555343037186_1062256700_2915140_1644292507_n.jpg

Do want!

you'll be fine just replacing 2 tyres (I don't beleive in replacing just 1...). Attessa allows for something like 3-5% difference in diameter before it detects slip to allow for this.

Even different brands in the same size can have variance in actual sizes.

Cheers Duncan. I've heard all kinds of funny stories over the years about Attessa being a bitch, had me kind of worried. I remember at one point reading that someone didn't rotate their tyres on their GT-R and that was enough to make it kick up a shit fit.

It's my drivers side rear, It had a small leak when I drove up the coast, my front torque guage was sitting a few mm up from the bottom and when I put air in it was normal again,

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Very decent bit of kit. Definitely black it out I reckon.  
    • Because people who want that are buying euros. The people with the money to buy the aftermarket heads and blocks aren’t interested in efficiency or making -7 power, they’re making well over 1,000hp and pretty much only drive them at full throttle  best way to way make money is know your customer base and what they want and don’t spend money making things they don’t want. 
    • It's not, but it does feel like a bit of a missed opportunity regardless. For example, what if the cylinder head was redesigned to fit a GDI fuel system? It's worth like two full points of compression ratio when looking at modern GDI turbo vs PFI turbo. I'm pretty reliably surprised at how much less turbo it takes to make similar power out of a modern engine vs something like an RB26. Something with roughly the same dimensions as a -7 on an S55 is making absolutely silly power numbers compared to an RB26. I know there's a ton of power loss from things like high tension rings, high viscosity oil, clutch fan, AWD standby loss, etc but it's something like 700 whp in an F80 M3 vs 400 whp in an R33 GTR. The stock TF035HL4W turbos in an F80 M3 are really rather dinky little things and that's enough to get 400 whp at 18 psi. This just seems unwise no? I thought the general approach is if you aren't knock limited the MFB50 should be held constant through the RPM range. So more timing with RPM, but less timing with more cylinder filling. A VE-based table should accordingly inverse the VE curve of the engine.
    • I've seen tunes from big name workshops with cars making in excess of 700kW and one thing that stood out to me, is that noone is bothering with torque management. Everyone is throwing in as much timing as the motor can take for a pull. Sure that yields pretty numbers on a dyno, but it's not keeping these motors together for more than a few squirts down the straight without blowing coolant or head gaskets. If tuners, paid a bit more attention and took timing out in the mid range, managed boost a bit better, you'll probably see less motors grenading. Not to name names, or anything like that, but I've seen a tune, from a pretty wild GT-R from a big name tuner and I was but perplexed on the amount of timing jammed into it. You would have expected a quite a bit less timing at peak torque versus near the limiter, but there was literally 3 degrees of difference. Sure you want to make as much as possible throughout the RPM range, but why? At the expense of blowing motors? Anyhow I think we've gone off topic enough once again lol.
    • Because that’s not what any of them are building these heads or blocks for. It’s to hold over over 1000hp at the wheels without breaking and none of that stuff is required to make power 
×
×
  • Create New...