Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

thats normal tom. i did a bit of testing when i installed my aftermarket pump. at idle the fuel pump was only seeing ~8v. when you start the car, for 30 seconds the pump see's the full ~13v before dropping back to ~8v. i couldn't take the car out on the road as the rear was in pieces, so i didn't test the switch over point for full voltage while driving, i imagine its something like as soon as you hit the throttle it ups the voltage. if you want to bypass this let me know and i'll send you the wiring changes diagram i made up.

no problems

i know i grounded my S13 pump to keep it on the high speed all the time. worked well. My S15s were single speed, but benefitted from better grounding!

so cut the ground and re run it to the chassis?

might also check for rain water in my ecu cables, its never bothered it before but we had some rain last night and i didn't check the footwell yet

might run a relay off my sub cabling for the 14v rewire thingo

can someone check how many volts their stock pump gets at idle (s2 owners preferably)

QWK just answered the voltage question.

as for grounding the pump, i dont want to give you wrong information, but from memory on the S chassis i took the ground wire from the pump, and connected it directly to the chassis of the car.

this took out the 2 speed switching circuit.

youve already mentioned a relay, if you hook up the pump directly to the battery with new wiring, youll be laughing. also allows more stable voltages if/when you upgrade the pump.

dont use the amp wiring to power the pump. give it its own wire.

thats normal tom. i did a bit of testing when i installed my aftermarket pump. at idle the fuel pump was only seeing ~8v. when you start the car, for 30 seconds the pump see's the full ~13v before dropping back to ~8v. i couldn't take the car out on the road as the rear was in pieces, so i didn't test the switch over point for full voltage while driving, i imagine its something like as soon as you hit the throttle it ups the voltage. if you want to bypass this let me know and i'll send you the wiring changes diagram i made up.

that would be good if you could, not sure what kind of wizardry the fuel system has on this thing

i must have been typing at the same time as you

QWK just answered the voltage question.

as for grounding the pump, i dont want to give you wrong information, but from memory on the S chassis i took the ground wire from the pump, and connected it directly to the chassis of the car.

this took out the 2 speed switching circuit.

youve already mentioned a relay, if you hook up the pump directly to the battery with new wiring, youll be laughing. also allows more stable voltages if/when you upgrade the pump.

dont use the amp wiring to power the pump. give it its own wire.

i'll run another wire along the fuel lines/pipes (under the car), worked well for the amp wiring

then use the stock wiring to trigger the relay :D

might look into a gss-341 whalbro as it looks like the easiest to get into a stagea housing

hope this is the issue, though i'm not sure why it would cause the ecu to shut down, only other thing i can think of is the turbo timer playing up (turned it off yesterday so maybe instead of kicking in for a split second its letting it die)

i'll run another wire along the fuel lines/pipes (under the car), worked well for the amp wiring

then use the stock wiring to trigger the relay :D

That stuff should really be run through the cabin, not under the floor. Just run it down the opposite side of the car to your RCA's.

Insulation is too soft (makes it flexible), flick a rock up, get a nick in it, fills with water, nice OFC cable goes black and crappy, high resistance here we come!

I also avoid running any kind of wiring near fuel lines if possible.

Edited by Daleo

i use the premise that nissan tuck the lines into places that don't get damaged easily

its also a lot neater and saves going through the firewall

i've got some wiring from a battery relocation so i might use that (about 4 gauge)

I put R33 front calipers and rotors all sweet ,thanks to Scott that made the spacers (Thanks Mate) BUT when I took the wheels off discovered that one of the CV boots is gone and the other side is going that way...damn now to look for a place to fix them...

I put R33 front calipers and rotors all sweet ,thanks to Scott that made the spacers (Thanks Mate) BUT when I took the wheels off discovered that one of the CV boots is gone and the other side is going that way...damn now to look for a place to fix them...

Good to hear everything bolted up nicely. :thumbsup:

Got the old rusty studs out of my turbo manifold, and had the manifold bolts holes rethreaded.Thanks Scott.

put some heat sheild n the walls of engine bay as im ditching the heat sheild on the manifold.

3m sticky heat sheild is GOOD!

cant wait for the turbo now..

Edited by AaronNM35

Got the old rusty studs out of my turbo manifold, and had the manifold bolts holes rethreaded.Thanks Scott.

put some heat sheild n the walls of engine bay as im ditching the heat sheild on the manifold.

3m sticky heat sheild is GOOD!

cant wait for the turbo now..

Nice one, got a link for the heat shielding?

nah i can never find it online

Its a shop near my house thats sells it. I think Scotts gonna be buying it in bulk soon, maybe speak to him about it.

But I should get a photo of it and post it. This stuff is amazing, I used it on my dump and not one corner is even thinking of peeling off!

and it actually does its job!

Edited by AaronNM35

That's pretty!

Haven't seen that kit before... hmm, unless I am missing something, the turbo looks to only run off the gasses from the passenger side exhaust manifold?

Interesting.

lol @ "I bought when the dollar was strong".

http://www.intensepower.com/pogttukit350.html

Nope, both manifolds. A gt35 would need that flow.

There have been a few factory low pressure turbo designs come out only using half the manifold. I am looking into installing a 40mm wastegate on the drivers side bank to essentially run the turbo off the passenger bank once it has spun up, I assume this will lower the exhaust backpressure and allow much higher outputs in the topend where the little housing becomes restrictive...

Nope, both manifolds. A gt35 would need that flow.

There have been a few factory low pressure turbo designs come out only using half the manifold. I am looking into installing a 40mm wastegate on the drivers side bank to essentially run the turbo off the passenger bank once it has spun up, I assume this will lower the exhaust backpressure and allow much higher outputs in the topend where the little housing becomes restrictive...

hmm... I still don't see the piping for it... what is the small part of the Y-pipe for the?

Looks to me like the driver's side bank runs straight out from the stock manifold to the small part of the y-pipe.

Anyway, as I said to you the other day, I like that wastegate on the passenger bank idea.

Less pressure = greater flow.

hmm... I still don't see the piping for it... what is the small part of the Y-pipe for the?

Looks to me like the driver's side bank runs straight out from the stock manifold to the small part of the y-pipe.

Anyway, as I said to you the other day, I like that wastegate on the passenger bank idea.

Less pressure = greater flow.

would sound awsome too with a scream hanging off the end of it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey all, I'm sorry if this has been discussed before.  I have a 2008 Japanese import V36 coupe with nav but without Bose. I bought one of those AliExpress android screens, which for the most part works really well.  The only thing that doesn't work is the air con controls (well sort of) and the factory reverse camera.  The AC can be controlled fine but it doesn't report the change in temp and mode to the screen, and the volume knob/other audio controls from the panel don't register on the learning app.  I am pretty certain that the problem is the difference in the head unit between base model (Nav but no Bose) 2007-2009 coupes and anything after 2009.  Mine is the one with the blue connector all the way to the right as seen in this forum post:  The reason I think this is there is one wire left over that doesn't fit anywhere on this head unit, or in the factory screen which also uses different connectors to more recent versions.  I've seen the upgrade from OWC, and have sent the guy a message on eBay but no response yet.  I also don't particularly need the whole kit, just *maybe* an adapter for this one cable.  Did anyone else here have the same problem, or have any insight about what I can do to get this working?  I have been in contact with the seller but all they seem to be able to do is ask for more pictures and videos. Minor edit to add:  I have been researching and found a screen on Aliexpress that actually specifies my head unit in the listing, so these things do exist.  I will contact the seller to see if the wiring adapters are interchangeable with other screens.   Thanks in advance!
    • Can't go wrong with tourings/estates/wagons. 
    • Oh poop ! I missed the "deposit" in your post ! 
    • I laughed so hard a snot bubble popped out my nose !  And seriously ! You can still buy a decent house in Western Sydney for 2 mill ? ? 
    • Come on guys, they're just trying to sell their project car to scrape together a house deposit in the Western Suburbs of Sydney...
×
×
  • Create New...