Jump to content
SAU Community

What Have You Done To Your Stagea Lately?

Hanso

By Hanso,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 9.3k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

chuckie
chuckie

FITTED 2 NEW BOLTS TO MY Brakes is this a MOD i CAN POST or do i need aprovall from NM#% But i may need to ask if it`s ok to POST hope to POST MORE SOON

chuckie
chuckie

Thanks for all your HELP , I guess owning a NM#% is some sort of gift , i guess with all your imput i will be happy to have a NM#% in the family & may be you will be more helpfully then, but a

chuckie
chuckie

LOOKING AT BUYING NM#% CAN I GET SOME POINTERS ON WHATS SHIT & WHATS NOT got some new bolts for Calipers

Posted Images

S T A R 3 3 Veteran

S T A R 3 3

Posted
Posted

Most likely you've ended up with a reasonably bad boost leak....do you have a boost gauge, and if so what does it show.

Go back around the whole job and check every hose is seated square, and every hose clamp is tight. The easy way to check a hose clamp is to push hard on the screw part - if it turns on the pipe it is too loose. But even if they are tight, the hoses have to be properly seated on the pipes, ie square on and good overlap

Howdy,

thanks for all your input!

I Double checked the hoses and een had a mate of mine come by after I had installed it yesterday to ensure everything had been connected properly. No problem.

I spent all day wiring up a boost guage (Apexi mechanical) and finally got it to work.

on idle: -0.5 to -0.6

driving: -0.7

OK, so im assuming it should be idling on 0?

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

Howdy,

thanks for all your input!

I Double checked the hoses and een had a mate of mine come by after I had installed it yesterday to ensure everything had been connected properly. No problem.

I spent all day wiring up a boost guage (Apexi mechanical) and finally got it to work.

on idle: -0.5 to -0.6

driving: -0.7

OK, so im assuming it should be idling on 0?

No, that sounds reasonably normal. Engines are almost always on vacuum (ie less than 0) because they suck air in. the more you open the throttle the more air they suck so the more vacuum you'll see. But with a turbo car of course, as it comes on boost it moves from vacuum (negative) to boooost (positive), but only when the engine is under load.

Unfortunately that means that you need someone to watch the boost guage while you floor it for a while. Up a hill is best because boost builsd more quickly and the car accelerates more slowly.

S T A R 3 3 Veteran

S T A R 3 3

Posted
Posted

No, that sounds reasonably normal. Engines are almost always on vacuum (ie less than 0) because they suck air in. the more you open the throttle the more air they suck so the more vacuum you'll see. But with a turbo car of course, as it comes on boost it moves from vacuum (negative) to boooost (positive), but only when the engine is under load.

Unfortunately that means that you need someone to watch the boost guage while you floor it for a while. Up a hill is best because boost builsd more quickly and the car accelerates more slowly.

OK so took it for a drive today and found a steady incline.

During acceleration, the gauge hovered around 0.5 and whilst in 2nd gear at around 3000rpm onwards I could feel the car 'stuttering'.

Thoughts? I think this is getting a bit too over my head for me.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Finished stripping the heads off today and cleaned up the block ready for the new oem head gaskets and L19 studs. It all looks pretty clean in there now, hopefully an oil flush will clean out any residual coolant I haven't managed to get to.

Luckily it looks like just a split head gasket...

post-63525-0-28203100-1338735704_thumb.jpg

post-63525-0-18105200-1338735719_thumb.jpg

post-63525-0-47078100-1338735734_thumb.jpg

M35 Collaborator

M35

Posted
Posted

Today, i pulled the glovebox apart to investigate what sorts of plug connectors the DVD rom's got, and found the glovebox light was blown. Replaced the bulb, all good now. Also cleaned the pollen filter. Still not able to get the reversing camera wired up as the camera wont work for some reason(ntsc). Also gave it a wash. :yes:

slippylotion Mentor

slippylotion

Posted
Posted

Finished stripping the heads off today and cleaned up the block ready for the new oem head gaskets and L19 studs. It all looks pretty clean in there now, hopefully an oil flush will clean out any residual coolant I haven't managed to get to.

Luckily it looks like just a split head gasket...

Gotta love how E85 keeps the pistons and combustion chambers clean.

Is that the knock sensor in the valley?

Sunkist Grand Master

Sunkist

Posted
Posted

Gotta love how E85 keeps the pistons and combustion chambers clean.

Is that the knock sensor in the valley?

yeh i asked him if it was yesterday and yeh apparently it is the knock sensor

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

yeh i asked him if it was yesterday and yeh apparently it is the knock sensor

What's this Aaron? A non random post? That's not like you...

Yeh Paul, the pistons were only a little coated in carbon, a light spray with gasket stripper had them polished like new.

And yes, that is the knock sensor, not that the Fcon cares about it much.

Jezboosted Community Regular

Jezboosted

Posted
Posted

Finished stripping the heads off today and cleaned up the block ready for the new oem head gaskets and L19 studs. It all looks pretty clean in there now, hopefully an oil flush will clean out any residual coolant I haven't managed to get to.

Luckily it looks like just a split head gasket...

In Pic 1 is that a cast mark on the engine mount or a crack ?

S T A R 3 3 Veteran

S T A R 3 3

Posted
Posted

OK so took it for a drive today and found a steady incline.

During acceleration, the gauge hovered around 0.5 and whilst in 2nd gear at around 3000rpm onwards I could feel the car 'stuttering'.

Thoughts? I think this is getting a bit too over my head for me.

could the issues that I have been experiencing be a coilpack issue? I remember experiencing something similar with another car of mine years ago..

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

In Pic 1 is that a cast mark on the engine mount or a crack ?

Just a casting mark.

could the issues that I have been experiencing be a coilpack issue? I remember experiencing something similar with another car of mine years ago..

It sounds like it, Stuttering is usually either plugs that are fouled or coil packs breaking down. It could also be low voltage/bad connection in the coil loom. Without more information about the car's mods and power level its hard to guess the cause.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Studs turned up today, all went in well bar one, it looks like the thread is a little chewed. :verymad: I will have to buy a long M11 x 1.25 tap tomorrow.

I also match ported the upper and lower plenum halves and throttle, the head ports looked pretty good but the runners were all over the place.

post-63525-0-52140400-1338814373_thumb.jpg

post-63525-0-08143100-1338814687_thumb.jpg

post-63525-0-54349400-1338814723_thumb.jpg

post-63525-0-57822500-1338814741_thumb.jpg

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Nope. lol, I don't trust myself around the valves without removing them and I don't want to get a stray piece of alloy in the oil galleries. Do you think it matters? The area of the 6 ports is a crapload bigger than the turbo and wastegate. It should be fine mate. There is definitely a heap of material I could remove there though.

Sunkist Grand Master

Sunkist

Posted
Posted

im gonna talk you into it lol..

i think you should.. why not its all apart.. just be a true hampton parker and shove a sock down there and vacuum it out before you take the sock out lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      braided lines for the turbos

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy Haven't really thought of that yet, but you are right. If the hose was damaged it should be absolutely pissing by now. I'll put some heat sleeve around it for good measure since I'm already removing the line anyway.  Maybe I'll put on some of the stock hardlines if I ever fully remove the turbos again. Maybe when T51R modding the compressor housings? Might be a fun mod on GT28s for that "fake single turbo" effect.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 1: I did some work on the car already before finalizing this post and my "issues" list. I dropped the Tomei exhaust in favor of the HKS Hi Power Silent. Sounds nice and I can actually hear myself think now. Also gives me a realistic chance to legally drive without silencer inserts. A bit of cheating was necessary to still be able to mount the Top Secret style diffuser. Some malusage of washers and a bit of "convincing" toward the brackets and exhaust hanger seemed to do the trick. The shaky steering wheel has been resolved as various suspension components were worn, like sway bar bushings and link bars. Most notably the two steering tie rod ends. Had some trouble finding bushings because my sway bars are not OEM thickness, 23.x up front and 27 rear. But non adjustable, so no aftermarket I suppose. Maybe they are nismo units? Turbo oil drain hoses were definitely still the originals and are new now. Wasn't the cause of the turbo oil leak sadly. Currently removing the rear turbo because of it, I suspect the braided oil feed line is the culprit. This issue needs to be dealt with so I can work towards actually getting the turbo setup legal and inspected. Two new issues to add to the list as well. Rear Main seal is probably leaking. Time will show how bad it is, I don't really want to drop the gearbox right now just for the stupid seal. Could fix a few other things in one go once I do that. Front right driveshaft grease is going past the cv boot, so at some point I'll fix that too.
    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok so no 4cyl clutch... Yeah it is a factory manual. So if iam correct i need clutch and flywheel too? I can use something that suits something like R32 GTST?   EDIT: https://www.ebay.com/itm/224291042776 Is this ok?   EDIT2: i maybe forget to mention this(dk how important it is) but the trans will be behind RB25DET NEO(iam doing swap) It will be there for a little while. Iam planing to do bigbox or BMW tranny..
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      You're probably right about that one. Thanks for your suggestions, I hope I don't need a new 3rd brake light. Although wiring issues might arguably be worse. Right now I'm in the midst of a turbo removal because of my oil leak, other problems are going to have to wait for now.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Hell, I know that much. So far I just put it off as "part of the deal".
×
×
  • Create New...