Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nice looking turbo Dale. :wub:

Looking forward to your review; I can see myself changing to something like that.

Really not happy with your current setup Leon? Still too laggy?

I just installed my guages that go under (or above? need to work that bit out) the stereo.

When I bought, it had one of those MP3 player drawer things (which is now for sale) to connect to the stereo, but the stereo only has output to an amp, so it was completely pointless.

Does anyone know what order they go in on a stock Stag? is it guages, climate control THEN stereo, or a different order?

Cheers,

Ian.

Really not happy with your current setup Leon? Still too laggy?

I've had the car pulled apart trying to fix an oil leak & just haven't had the time to work on it. In reality I haven't driven more than a few hundred K's since it was installed. With some tuning I may be able to make it more acceptable to me.

More likely, I will put it back together, take it to Willowbank to set a time & then swap it to something like Dale's. I have my doubts that I can get it to a point where it will suit how I like to drive the car, but I'll see - eventually.

Ordered some new rims for bigbird. Got a crack in an existing weld on my enkei rim. Didn't even realise the rim had been welded.

New rims are Advanti Stage(a) Drift 17x9 +15 Tires still 235/45/17

post-58831-0-41266500-1343377014_thumb.jpg post-58831-0-18692400-1343376999_thumb.jpg post-58831-0-99514300-1343377006_thumb.jpg

Nice clearance to the coilovers now.

post-58831-0-36991500-1343377047_thumb.jpg

Also found these !

post-58831-0-44764100-1343377022_thumb.jpg

The guys at o1g are awesome

Fired my new engine package up for the first time. slight miss (over fuelling) need to have a play with the niss tune, and a oil leak from new oil cooler pressure sender. all in all very succsesful considering the loom modifications required to chuck the neo into a s1. as well as the fuel set up changes and manual conversion at the same time expected more hicups. was good to hear the nice lump of the pon cams ocasionally even through the miss lol. just need to bleed clutch up now sort a few more things out then some tune time. 6 months off the road is too long hanging out to drive the old girl. should only be a couple more weeks. Then i can feel like a stag owner again

I've had the car pulled apart trying to fix an oil leak & just haven't had the time to work on it. In reality I haven't driven more than a few hundred K's since it was installed. With some tuning I may be able to make it more acceptable to me.

More likely, I will put it back together, take it to Willowbank to set a time & then swap it to something like Dale's. I have my doubts that I can get it to a point where it will suit how I like to drive the car, but I'll see - eventually.

Let me know how you go, and we can see if we can do a deal if it helps. Is it that bad? I'd imagine with the F-con I can tune any issues out.

Let me know how you go, and we can see if we can do a deal if it helps. Is it that bad? I'd imagine with the F-con I can tune any issues out.

Will do - maybe a swap of some sort could be on the cards? Not sure if tuning can totally eliminate lag. I suppose programable boost control can help somewhat, & supposedly retarding timing can also help. I should stop whinging about it, lol, & just get on with making it work.

Also, just because I think it's too laggy doesn't mean someone else won't be raving over it.

Must be time for a cruise then Jase! About time, needs more pics!

yeah i think we are all due for a stag cruise . not sure how to get pics up as i use my smart phone

for the net. might have to use image shack or something as it wont read pic files straight of my phone

got new tyres fitted today, bought some falken FK-452's.. hopefully they will be fairly grippy :D has a little issue going from 235 up to 245... 2 much low, camber in the ass was that bad, that the tyres were on the coilover spring perch haha, and i have 19x8.5 @ +12 offset if thats any indication of the camber haha.

You don't have too much camber - your wheels are too big. I run 3deg neg camber front and rear on 17x9 in rims with 255 40 17 tyres which gives me a better contact area and also lowers the cog c/w 19in rims:

002-4.jpg

and my cheapo track rims 17 x 8.5in on slicks:

Trackrims.jpg

what is your offset... those 17's are a shitload wider than mine, my wheels sit inside the guards, even with the car raised up....... and they are a +12 :S also, if your telling m, in that top pic you have 3 deg neg camber, i must have about 15 deg neg, because all my wear on the old tyres was only about 1.5 to 2" wide lol, rest of the tyre was new hahaha. my car has a takeros body kit, the side skirts are like a step they are that wide, the bottom of the tyre is inline with the kit, the top was atleast an inch in and under the guard, and almost on the spring perch... its was a bit ummm... unrealistic really, but fun to have it dumped for a while.. not very practical, i had to raise the coilovers 45mm in the rear to even get the top of the tyre close to flush with the guard :D as i said, fun for a while, although it was like driving a commodore lol, but it looks like a 4wd again now.

Edited by OMY31T

Last week had my driver side front repaired after an accident a few months ago and finally fitted some 18's to the car... she's now looking mint but needs to be dropped an inch still i recon.

post-88715-0-65337400-1343482707_thumb.jpg

Also pressed in some new Inner Lower control arm bushes the other day; mine weren't damaged, but the new ones look to be much stiffer.

This should help remove some deflection in the LCA, and still deliver good ride quality.

Also did an all over suspension bolt check; one of my rear links needed nipping up at the Swaybar.

If you have a chance, and have been doing any work on your suspension in the last month; get under and check; not just visually, with a spanner.

Cleaned out the AAC valve today. It's fixed an idle problem that I was having, and the car also feels like its revving a lot smoother.

Edited by 180fan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Add to this... What blew the fuse too? If a circuit feeding power to the coils was blown, how were the coils even functioning to let the car start?   There is some seriously wrong wiring in that car for certain, and I'm betting there is some melted cables somewhere, but I can't explain the 30v either, unless there is something back feeding on that power line that has a dodgy power system and the electronics are giving it hell.
    • This is typically the case with such threads. What I cannot quite get my head around is where a reading above 12V (or 13.8 or 14.x or whatever the maximum achievable voltage might actually be in that specific car) comes from. 25V or 30V should be completely impossible. There's no way to create it. Hard to answer that question. It will literally depend on whether the current tune relies on the values as set. I'd guess it probably does. ie, the real base pressure being 49 means that the flowrate through the injectors will be higher than if it was 43.5. The Haltech's modelling should be handling that, but because it thinks the pressure is only 43.5, then..... I dunno. It should be thinking that it will be injecting less fuel with each pulse duration than is actually happening. So, something is definitely not-as-it-should-be, but specifically what that is is beyond my abilities to imagine. Someone like Dose who spends more time with Haltechs might have a better thought.
    • Bit of a late reply here as me and my wife have been really busy with new born twins. I finally got these issues fixed and it was something really stupid that caused all of this 🤦‍♂️... After alot of mucking around with trying to figure out what is causing these issues, I back probed one of the R35 coils on the power 12v supply, with the engine running it got 25v! And I thought, hang on..., this isn't normal. Measured my battery with the engine running to check for over charge from the alternator and it wasn't that. So then I dissconnected the R35 PRP coil harness and backprobed the power supply on the engine loom where the ignition coil harness connects, with the key on ignition (engine off) it measured 30v! So then I had to trace where that high voltage was coming from and it lead me to the brown relay "ECM & IGN coil relay" inside the cabin next to the ECU on the passanger wall. This relay feeds power to the ECM and ignition coils. Tried swapping it with another same relay. nah still 30v.. coming from the 2 green/white wires in the brown relay. So then I set my multi meter to the beep continuity mode and probed every fuse on the fuse box inside the cabin to try and find this high voltage power source. Wasn't any of the fuses inside the cabin. Then probed all the fuses in the engine bay and BAM, got my power source that was a 10AMP fuse called "ENG CONT". Pulled the fuse out, and what do you know... it was blown. 🤦‍♂️  So then I quickly replaced it with a new 10AMP fuse, started the car and yeah haha [insert extreme face palm]... The RPM blimping thing went away, car idles smoothly now like what it was before. I swear! I checked all my fuses with my test light twice before I created this forum thread. I think, maybe because one side of that faulty 10A fuse lit up on my test light, I must have thought it was still ok and not blown. But now I know to have both sides light up on the test light when checking fuses... I hate diagnosing electricals.... I'd take mechanical problems over electrical problems any day🤣. Drove the car around my suburb with the engine up to operating temp and it runs fine like before. However, I notice that my fuel pressure is still at 49psi. So I'm thinking this must be normal for my system as I've upgraded the stock fuel pump to a Walbro 255L/h with a constant 12v mod.  But anyway, I'm just glad to have my daily back on the road! Thanks everyone for the replies on this thread, all sorted now! One thing I want to ask you tuner guys, my base fuel pressure on the haltech main settings are set to 43.5psi from default (my tuner must have not checked the fuel pressure maybe when tuning my car?). Do I set it to what it actually is idling on at 49psi? Or just leave it ("if it aint broke, don't fix it/leave it")?  
    • The max they would go for me is 50.
    • That cannot have been a fun set of drilling. The stock "baffle" looks identical to rb26, I just cut fuel cell foam to fit the full length under the baffle.
×
×
  • Create New...