Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got my jap alarm working yesterday! So after a few hours got the remote to pair to the alarm, also sorted so of the settings! Still need to play a little more, turbo timer fucton has stopped working'! Plus side I love the auto start!

Well some nugget has bent my rear wiper arm...

Can anyone provide me with a part number for the M35 arm? may as well upgrade, only been meaning to do it for about 2 years

The arm is 28781AQ010 and I got it direct from Nissan for $55 and the blade assembly is AY003H25AR unsure how much from Nissan. You will also need a refill I assume.

http://nissan.epcdata.ru/stagea/pnm35/6845-vq35de/body/287/?frame_no=PNM35700538


Also, seems to be a trend with people, someone snapped the arm on my M35. Basterds...

Edited by M35woah

The arm is 28781AQ010 and I got it direct from Nissan for $55 and the blade assembly is AY003H25AR unsure how much from Nissan. You will also need a refill I assume.

http://nissan.epcdata.ru/stagea/pnm35/6845-vq35de/body/287/?frame_no=PNM35700538

Also, seems to be a trend with people, someone snapped the arm on my M35. Basterds...

This is a good thing to have added to the M35 uber thread

3200-j Vortex alarm configured :) very happy everything is work, also the tap fuction so if someone require me at my car they tap the windscreen :) turbo time works auto start , last thing to sort is the auto window winding option!

other thing i'll turn off is the auto arm, that is going to get me into trouble

Worked out the weird noise was a bearing, but wasn't the alternator.

The bearing on the fan pulley had died, as had the fan clutch. And the passenger side front wheel bearing...

So finally going to install the twin 12" thermos I've had sitting here with fan shroud. I'll see how they go with the shroud, but better than no fan, and if they don't perform well enough I can always go back to a clutch fan. Seemed silly not to use the fans I had on the shelf for now and give them a go, when the alternative is buy a new fan clutch, and probably need a new fan shroud (mine looks pretty sad).

At the same time I'm going to delete the offending bearing. I've removed the fan pulley and instead of replacing the bearing, at the moment I'll leave it off, put a spacer behind the alternator bracket, and run a shorter fan belt.

Should be an interesting test, see what difference it makes if any. Winter is a good time to test it, that's for sure.

Thinking about picking one of these up to fit an aftermarket stereo. Anyone had any experience with them?

http://www.autotoys.com/x/product.php?productid=9777

They look like shit. You'll hate it. Buy an OEM unit 2nd hand of YAJ or at least a better knock off

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...