Jump to content
SAU Community

What Have You Done To Your Stagea Lately?


Hanso

Recommended Posts

Stole the wheels off my wife's chaser and put them on te stag. Love gtr wheels!

2qapnwi.jpg

theirs not much GTR wheels dont look good on,

definatly look tops on the stag, needs clear indicators....which i have a spare set of :whistling:

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Had to go back 5 pages before I found a post that had anything to do with the thread title! Except for C34S2STAG, those GTR wheels look sweet btw. Thought I'd throw up some pics of the new anchors I finally got around to fitting.

post-88334-0-58376000-1383299759_thumb.jpg

post-88334-0-80870500-1383299809_thumb.jpg

post-88334-0-10406700-1383299855_thumb.jpg

post-88334-0-52481200-1383299900_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers guys, yeah I'm sure it will work well. I haven't changed the master cylinder yet as I'll see how it goes once I get out to bed them in.

C34S2STAG the rears fit on really easily, had to trim the backing plate about 5mm each end of the caliper and had to find some different bolts as the brembos use a coarse thread whereas the standard Stagea bolts were fine pitch. These were off a R33 GTR so if you get the mounting bolts as well you'd be set. Another difference is the Stagea rear uses a banjo join to the caliper and the GTR uses a flared connection. You can pull the little seat out of the brembos which would then enable you to use the standard Stagea brake hose but it needed a bit of a stretch to get it to connect as it's a different orientation, I wasn't real happy with this so I got some braided lines made up with a flared end to suit the caliper. Pirtek did these for me, ADR approved too apparently.

The fronts were fitted to a R34 GTR (non standard obviously) and originally came with Alcon rotors as well which were some weird size - 343mm or something.... I had trouble sourcing replacement rotors as the bolt spacing for the 2 piece rotors seemed to be different to other manufacturers as well. A big thanks to darrinspencer who put me on to the guys at Tweed Brake Service in Capalaba Brisbane, I just took a front hub, a wheel and the calpiers to them and they made up adaptor brackets and hats (which incorporated my wheel spacer so I don't need that anymore) to enable me to use a DBA 355mm two piece rotor. They made up some one piece braided lines for me as well. If anyone is the Brissy area needs work done or just want to check out some really cool stuff their workshop is awesome - full of race cars when I was there and they're building their own as well.

Fatz has some good gear for sale, would have saved me some stuffing around for sure!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

theirs not much GTR wheels dont look good on,

definatly look tops on the stag, needs clear indicators....which i have a spare set of :whistling:

did you need to run spacers or anything to make them fit ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks good, 3Katz!

Where is darrinspencer hiding these days, anyway?

Cheers mate. I'm not sure hey, it was a while ago he helped me out with that but I think he's still about. I seem to recall he was parting out or selling a Stagea on here not too long ago.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks good, 3Katz!

Where is darrinspencer hiding these days, anyway?

I am still around.......busy working on new business

After 20+ years of performance jap cars I have had to move onto 4x4's

Thats where the $$$ are these days.

I just sold last week a spare S2 C34 I had sitting around for a ute build after selling my green R34 Stagea to Ray. Was going to be a demo car.

So I only have left parts left over that were for the ute build like another R34 gtr front end and manual conversion

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am still around.......busy working on new business

After 20+ years of performance jap cars I have had to move onto 4x4's

Thats where the $$$ are these days.

I just sold last week a spare S2 C34 I had sitting around for a ute build after selling my green R34 Stagea to Ray. Was going to be a demo car.

So I only have left parts left over that were for the ute build like another R34 gtr front end and manual conversion

Ahh okay! Good luck with your new ventures!

I got my car back yesterday. GTX3076 .63 turbo with Tial 38mm external wastegate, R32 GTR front brakes with DBA slotted rotors, GSL HPX pads all around, 740cc Nismo injectors, Z32 AFM, Splitfires, etc. Not bad so far, need to make time to go for a decent drive and get used to it again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ahh okay! Good luck with your new ventures!

I got my car back yesterday. GTX3076 .63 turbo with Tial 38mm external wastegate, R32 GTR front brakes with DBA slotted rotors, GSL HPX pads all around, 740cc Nismo injectors, Z32 AFM, Splitfires, etc. Not bad so far, need to make time to go for a decent drive and get used to it again.

Awesome stuff Nick, looking forward to hearing how it goes!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ahh okay! Good luck with your new ventures!

I got my car back yesterday. GTX3076 .63 turbo with Tial 38mm external wastegate, R32 GTR front brakes with DBA slotted rotors, GSL HPX pads all around, 740cc Nismo injectors, Z32 AFM, Splitfires, etc. Not bad so far, need to make time to go for a decent drive and get used to it again.

Fecking ell!

I thought it was in for brakes and something simple! Sounds good Nick, banish that ancient stock turbo to the garage shelf! Should go alright eh?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awesome stuff Nick, looking forward to hearing how it goes!

Fecking ell!

I thought it was in for brakes and something simple! Sounds good Nick, banish that ancient stock turbo to the garage shelf! Should go alright eh?

Yep, they had it tuned for roughly 255rwkW but it wasn't too happy there, so brought it back down to a safe ~230rwkW. There is more potential there, but there seems to be a restriction somewhere that they're yet to locate. It might be the return-flow intercooler, or it might be somewhere on the exhaust side. Checking intercooler flow is easy by just looking at how much pressure drop there is (as you guys would know), but exhaust is a bit more difficult to assess.

I'm going to drive it around for a while and see how it is (and make sure there aren't any bugs that need to be sorted), then see if I'm happy with it as it is. Potentially there's another 40+ kW in it, apparently.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

BTW, my HPX pads and DBA rotor combo squeals quite badly. I'm guessing this will settle down eventually?

Also, where can I get a centre badge for the steering wheel, any ideas? It's still got the S15 "S" in the middle.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmm, well I don't think squeal settles, only gets worse in my experience.

Obviously the guys re installed all the shims and things, maybe go through the bedding procedure again, and see what happens. Mechanics tend to be a little fast in the bedding and don't do it properly. If still bad, rip the pads out, clean, reassemble with gunk, and maybe file the pads.

My HPX are perfect on the stagea.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • we can only guess exactly what happened from our keyboards, but to me it looks like they were targeting 27 but the wastegate was too small or poorly controlled and the boost crept up, that is quite common
    • Good points!  Took those for granted - though I *did* actually give an example of winding boost up more than it had been before where I wasn't actually specifically looking for more peak power.  The Toyota Starlet dyno plot that I shared and mentioned showed an overlay from the previous tune it had and the one I'd redone, I left the boost targetting the same as the old tune but then after peak power I ramped boost up by a good 5psi or so over what the old tune had at the same rpm. The reason I felt comfortable with this (though the owner of the car had a "are you sure?" moment when I suggested it) is that the setup wasn't turbo limited, it was largely head sealing limited and the owner was a bit concerned as for the last few seasons he'd had issues with head lifting - sometimes not completing an event without having some headgasket issue, so he didn't want to run any more boost than it was. The reasons I was ok with raising the boost a good 5+psi MORE than that was that I left it where it was in the middle, and only increased it where VE (and therefore cylinder pressure vs psi) were dropping hard and I didn't stop the torque from dropping, just reduced the drop.  Well, there is that and the fact that the previous tuner had it overtimed by near 7degrees at peak torque - but that's another story haha.    I didn't really go into detail about that "turning it up more" thing but now you've mentioned the "not detuning", sometimes the boost *can* be turned up higher than you'd expect if the setup allows for it and you do it smartly.  I've tuned things to run 30psi on BP98 "safely" that a few years ago (or still?) people would cry that it was a stupid idea - but given they were well intercooled, low EMAP turbos and only doing that kind of boost where VE is dropping etc I was pretty confident it wasn't as cowboy as it sounded at face value and we never ended up with issues as a result of it.     
    • they choose the number of psi (27) around 4200? Could it produce more at this engine speed with the same turbo?
    • one thing escapes me, if the turbo spool provides the maximum boost and we can't control anything before that, how can the boost be higher by it alone.   here around 27 psi at 4200 then up to 32 psi at 6500 rpm   how does the tuner do this
    • I'm still not sure what you are trying to acheive, but I wanted to clarify something about Lithium's response to your question...   Only within certain limits. All of the examples Lithium gave were of detuning for a particular reason. Before the engine/turbo/wastegate combination has hit full boost, you can't increase it....the wastegate is shut and the turbo is pushing as hard as it can Once the combination has hit the target (controlled) boost, you generally have full control over whether it makes more or less boost, because it is being limited/reduced from its potential. This is generally done by controlling the wastegate In the top end, with an undersized turbo, it is possible you won't get to your target boost anymore if the turbo is choking up. In this case you cannot increase boost any more without changing the setup. No change in cost compared to any decent build, other than tuning time to get the engine to make less power than it is able to at a certain point
×
×
  • Create New...